Regulator Identification

[dogdiver2]

Can you help me ID the regulator pictured. If so can I still find parts for it. The high pressure gas is escaping through the mouthpiece

 

[rescuediver009]

Not an expert by any means, but it looks like an old USD/Aqualung swivel turret piston first stage. Not sure of the name. High pressure gas is like due to a failing high pressure seat. If this is the reg I am thinking of, there are parts for it. What type of second stages are on it.

 

[ASUPaula]

Not an expert by any means, but it looks like an old USD/Aqualung swivel turret piston first stage. Not sure of the name. High pressure gas is like due to a failing high pressure seat. If this is the reg I am thinking of, there are parts for it. What type of second stages are on it.

Even if you're wrong, I'm impressed by that ID.

 

[rescuediver009]

we all try

 

[dogdiver2]

Not an expert by any means, but it looks like an old USD/Aqualung swivel turret piston first stage. Not sure of the name. High pressure gas is like due to a failing high pressure seat. If this is the reg I am thinking of, there are parts for it. What type of second stages are on it.

The parts pictured below are attached to the regulator. They include a Dacor high pressure guage and a Tekna mouthpiece. Is replacing the high pressure seat something I can do myself?

 

[darylm74]

It looks an awful lot like the old Dacor 900 I have.

 

[FredT]

Not sure about the knob on the yoke.

First guess is a clone of the SP MK V first stage.
If the end at the yoke has two small holes about an inch part that is probably the vintage.

SP's pattent on that rig expired in the 80s and everybody copied it, most using parts interchangeable with the SP reg. I never played with the Tekna version, but Oceanic, Bouchat, Sea Elite, and several others used them. If so it's one of the all time great high flow rate bullet proof first stages. I have about 6 of them still in service.

Piston O-rings should be a #2-022 and #2-010. The HP seat is a 3/8" thick plug of virgin teflon 1/2" in diameter, or some other more exotic things, but the teflon plug will generally work if you can adjust the IP into the proper range. Second stage parts/seats are generally harder to find. O-rings need to be matched up, but they'll be in the #range of 2-012, to 2-017. Changing the small piston o-ring takes a special tool "bullet" to properly reinstall the piston without shaving the o-ring. With the bullet and the dual purpose spanner wrench I can field strip & rebuild one in about 5 minutes on the back deck of a boat. It's not rocket science, but without the tools and tricks it can take quite while even at a well equipped bench. On the plus side if you can get the thing back together without a leak, and confirm IP at 125 to 140 psi you did it right. It's not physically possible to get one back together wrong that meets those 2 critera! There are no tweaking adjustments once the reg is assembled as are common with the newer piston reg versions now necessary to ease their manufacturing tolerances. Diaphram regs all have to have a final "tweak" after assembly to adjust the IP.

FT

 

[dogdiver2]

Not sure about the knob on the yoke.

First guess is a clone of the SP MK V first stage.
If the end at the yoke has two small holes about an inch part that is probably the vintage.

SP's pattent on that rig expired in the 80s and everybody copied it, most using parts interchangeable with the SP reg. I never played with the Tekna version, but Oceanic, Bouchat, Sea Elite, and several others used them. If so it's one of the all time great high flow rate bullet proof first stages. I have about 6 of them still in service.

Piston O-rings should be a #2-022 and #2-010. The HP seat is a 3/8" thick plug of virgin teflon 1/2" in diameter, or some other more exotic things, but the teflon plug will generally work if you can adjust the IP into the proper range. Second stage parts/seats are generally harder to find. O-rings need to matched up, but they'll be in the #range of 2-012, to 2-017. Changing the small piston o-ring takes a special tool "bullet" to properly reinstall the piston without shaving it. With the bullet and the dual purpose spanner wrench I can field strip & rebuild one in about 5 minutes on the back deck of a boat. It's not rocket science, but without the tools and tricks it can take quite while even at a well equipped bench. On the plus side if you can get the thing back together without a leak, and confirm IP at 125 to 140 psi you did it right. It's not physically possible to get one back together wrong that meets those 2 critera! There are no tweaking adjustments once the reg is assembled as are common with the newer piston reg versions now necessary to ease their manufacturing tolerances. Diaphram regs all have to have a final "tweak" after assembly to adjust the IP.
FT

Fred,

The picture below shows the two holes you mentioned above. I take it that the spanner wrench allows you to remove the Yoke end via the two small holes. Where can I purchase the spanner wrench and bullet tool? I live in the San Francisco bay area. An internet store could also work.

Thanks

 

[FredT]

Fred,

The picture below shows the two holes you mentioned above. I take it that the spanner wrench allows you to remove the Yoke end via the two small holes. Where can I purchase the spanner wrench and bullet tool? I live in the San Francisco bay area. An internet store could also work.

Thanks

Nope, the yoke is removed by unscrewing the hex nut with the filter. That is effectively a hollow bolt holding the yoke.

The two holes allow the high pressure seat carrier to be unscrewed from the body. The little hole in the middle of that plug is used to put air in behind the HP seat to lift it out.

Tools can be had from:
http://www.scubatools.com/PBUniversal.html

Second stage Parts are harder to get.

FT

 

[minervamar]

dd2,

The knob on the yoke is Tekna, you have a matching set.

If you find a source for parts, please let me know.

Mike