Reg's, Octo's, So MANY choices

[pelagic_by_nature]

I am a new diver, starting to get gear. The selection of reg's out there is overwhelming. I'm the kind of person that researches the choices before a purchase like this but the sheer number of choices out there makes it tough. Especially considering the wide range of cost. :depressed: Am I less likely to die 'cuz I spent $$$$ instead of $$? I've heard people say that all the major brands are reliable. True, right? What would the difference be between a $200 reg and a $600 reg, really? I'm located in the Great Lakes so the majority of my diving will be in cold water. What specific features should I look for with respect to the temps I will be diving?

 

[vixtor]

Balanced regulators provide more comfort, as the respiratory effort is constant (does not increase with the pressure drop in the tank). All big well-known brands are reliable, and even some less-known brands are good enough for most diving. Some regulators have a better reputation as being used in tough environments and having less issues. If your diving will remain in normal limits, you don't have too much to worry about. More expensive regulators have improved designs that will provide an easier respiration effort than cheaper ones, while both having very few chances to fail.

Returning to your specific requirements, for cold water diving you might want to look to a diaphragm regulator as opposed to a piston-based one.

A very important criteria (from my point of view) is the local availability of the brand; by this, I mean having a local dive shop able to service them. If you travel, consider also the easiness of servicing your brand abroad. Most of the time, this limits you to most famous brands (like Scubapro and Aqualung), which have huge dealers and service networks.

For very cold water (near freeze temperatures), having some adjustment knobs might be helpful to prevent/stop a freeze/freeflow by increasing the inhalation effort (even though with no change in the IP, just adjusting the second stage will probably not be enough).

Look for a regulator with as much metal as possible in the second stage (metal conducts heat better than plastic, so it will have less chances to freeze, because it will take more heat from the surrounding water). The same feature will help a little with the dryness of your mouth.

I like usually second stages with larger diaphragms (compared to the compact ones). I'm not sure about the explanation, but they feel better in my opinion.

I would look for a DIN regulator (instead of A-clamp connector), because it is more compact - this might be different in USA, but in Europe most tanks have DIN valves with a INT-adapter nut, that can be removed easily. I heard that in US many tanks may have a INT-only valve (is this true, by the way?)

What brands do you have available locally, and what is the amount of money you are willing to spend on regulators? It would be easier to give an advice based on this information.

P.S. I am a happy user of MK17/G250V regulators in cold waters.

 

[pelagic_by_nature]

First, you

huh??

 

[vixtor]

huh??

I started typing, the phone rang, and, not being very focused on the screen, I clicked 'save' in the wrong window.

 

[Cave Bum]

vixtor made some very good points.

1. Most brands marketed today are reliable
2. Make sure what you choose is supported by the Local Dive Shop (LDS) you plan to use
3. Choose a balanced 1st stage at least and a balanced 2nd stage if possible
4. Choose one with an adjustment knob (although once it's set you shouldn't have to change it)

I dive both Dive Rite RG2500's which are diaphram and Scubapro MK25/G250V's which are piston. The diaphram is completely sealed from the outside water, the piston has minimal contact with the outside water. Both types have 'cold water kits' available for them.

I've had my Dive Rites to about 300 foot and my Scubapros to about 210 foot and they both breath extremely easy at depth.

The Dive Rite's are DIN's that come with a yoke adaptor and so will work for either DIN or yoke tanks (most tanks in the US are yoke!).

Hope this helps...

Be safe and have fun in the water! Bruce

 

[fnfalman]

I've always found it helpful to come up with a budget and then search for equipment and gear that fit such budget.

 

[Sinbad the Diver]

My approach was to find what features I wanted and determine which brands I would use (pretty much all of them as stated above). I then went shopping on-line and in stores. Ended up getting a great deal on a closeout package. Full waranty, etc . I'll add a third catagory to the where to buy question, distant dive shop (DDS). I define that as a brick and mortar dive shop that is not local to me. I've found that cost and turnaround for service is better there than at he LDS in my area and the one I use has a better selection and often has close-out lines that are great values.

 

[rstofer]

If you plan to dive in water less than about 50 deg F, you need to consider diaphragm type first stages (so sayeth the Oceanic Owners Manual; none of their piston regs are suitable for use below 50 deg F). If you are looking at a reg with a piston type first stage, read the owner's manual to see if it can handle cold water. There may be an environmental kit but, at least, Oceanic says no.

AquaLung, on their web site, has a snowflake icon along with descriptions of regulators it considers suitable for cold water. I think one of these is a piston reg so it probably has some kind of environmental kit. But, at least AquaLung comes right out and says which regs it would recommend.

NOAA, the US Coast Guard and the US Navy have selected the Oceanic Delta4/FDX10 as their cold water regulator of choice. I would imagine the EOS is an improved version but I bought the Delta4 for my wife.

The ScubaPro Mk17/G250V is highly regarded as a cold water regulator.

I guess I would stay with the top 3 players: ScubaPro, AquaLung and Oceanic. I KNOW there are other players that make very fine regs but the big 3 are probably easier to get serviced around the world.

If you can get by without the DVT (drive valve technology) and swivel at the second stage, here is a pretty decent price on the Delta4:
Oceanic Delta 4 Non-Swivel FDX10 Non-DVT Regulator

Here's the same reg WITH DVT for a better price:
Oceanic Delta 4 DVT Regulator

I never thought I wanted DVT because I don't want another gadget in the airstream. But the way the other folks around here forget to tighten the cap before rinsing is beginning to change my mind.

DIN vs yoke: good luck with that one! I guess you are better off to have a DIN reg and Thermo PRO valves on your own tanks but you will need a yoke adapter for rental tanks.

Good Luck
Richard

 

[CrackedConch]

Rather than offering specific thoughts on regs, I'll say: Don't buy cheap gear and then have to re-buy better stuff when you figure out what you really want or need.

Don't spend that money twice--rent or try different brands and gear configurations, take time to figure it out, get the good stuff first time around, keep it maintained and it will serve you well for a very long time.

Sounds like you're on the right track by asking the questions, but a lot of new divers make this mistake...

 

[Sinbad the Diver]

Rather than offering specific thoughts on regs, I'll say: Don't buy cheap gear and then have to re-buy better stuff when you figure out what you really want or need.

Don't spend that money twice--rent or try different brands and gear configurations, take time to figure it out, get the good stuff first time around, keep it maintained and it will serve you well for a very long time.

Sounds like you're on the right track by asking the questions, but a lot of new divers make this mistake...

I agree with the concept, but I'd add, just because you pay more, doesn't make it better.