OK, if I have all the facts straight:
The regulator is less than a year old.
You should be back from your trip in plenty of time if warrantee is an issue.
You took good care of it.
It was problem free last time you used it.
Based on the above I would hook it up to a tank and see if it works ok, i.e. no free flow, no leaks, breaths ok, no funk on the sintered filter. Read no further...
….enjoy your trip.
Having said that, if you want to get a little more involved (and everyone should learn the stuff posted below) here is my standard cut and paste with most of the spelling mistakes corrected....thanks to a certain college professor who fancies himself as a regulator tech and drives up the cost of my eBay bids, but I digress:
Regulator inspection
There are a few checks that everyone is capable of doing. One is the intermediate pressure check. Get a simple 300 psi pressure gage from Ace Hardware (I like the helpful hardware man better that the giant store types) and adapt it to your quick disconnect
http://www.diveriteexpress.com/regs/hoses.shtml <
http://www.diveriteexpress.com/regs/hoses.shtml> . Find out the what the IP range should be for your regulator (most are ~ 135 +/- 10 psi .) The intermediate pressure should remain steady after stabilizing within the acceptable range. If it tends to climb (creep) that indicates there is a problem with the first stage that must be corrected.
Another check is the cracking pressure of each second stage. Partially fill your kitchen sink and immerse the regulator with the mouth piece up . Air should begin to flow before the diaphragm gets more than a 1 1/2 of inches deep. You may have to put plastic tubing in place of the mouth piece to do this , but usually not. If you want to get fancy (there is no reason to get fancy) make a simple manometer from plastic tubing and a yard stick
http://www.komar.org/faq/manometer/ <
http://www.komar.org/faq/manometer/> and you can check the cracking pressure with a good deal of accuracy. Next, a water tight check is also very easy to perform and checks the integrity of the second stage. Hook the first stage up to a tank and without turning on the air (if you have a good tight dust cap you can use that instead) draw a breath until you hear the second stage diaphragm retract. Do not draw too hard as it will collapse the exhaust valves and cause a leak. Does the regulator hold vacuum? If so, it is probably water tight.
The BC.... if it has an Air II or similar device the same second stage rules apply to the regulator function. The inflator/deflator should operate as advertised with no sticking of the inflator or deflator buttons. The bladder should hold air fairly well overnight. If the overpressure valve does not have a pull string and you feel comfortable , remove it's cover and make sure the valve puck is not stuck to the seat.
These simple checks can be done by anyone. They should be done often, not to mention when new out of the box or after shop service.
Check early, check often.
couv