reg service / cleaning

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A shop that does not have an US cleaner would make me think twice. I rarely use mine after the initial servicing of an old reg as good soaking practices seem to avoid any deposit buildup. But a shop that wants to use a Dremel tool or the like would cause me to go elsewhere and warn others.
 
And you can pick up a used Magnahelic off eBay for a song. Heck, a brand new 5-0-5 one is 75 bucks on Amazon. I've even seen a neat little field tester, it was a plastic tool box, with an insert with an IP gauge, BC Connector and Mag with a mouthpiece adapter all mounted on it. That was the bottom of the toolbox, and the plastic tray insert fit on top of that to hold some small tools. I may just have to rig up something like that just to do it.

Steve
 
To me a magnahelic gauge would not be very useful but I'm: 1) very familiar with the 2nd stages I tune, and 2) able to easily re-tune if necessary on a dive trip, and 3) not interested in the factory spec cracking effort, I just set them as light as I think they'll be stable. That's probably not the best practice for a shop servicing a lot of regulators.

I also rarely use an ultrasonic cleaner, and I can get things very clean with a toothbrush and a really small brush with good solvent. But it takes a lot longer and if I were doing it everyday I'd use the US cleaner. Plus my regs are well maintained and usually not very dirty at servicing time. I have no idea what they're talking about with the dremel tool.

So, while it is possible to do a good job without the US and magnahelic, it is pretty unusual that a professional service tech wouldn't have those tools on hand. Maybe they don't have a torque wrench either...
 
I would run away as fast as you can. Totally unprofessional and sounds like a back yard setup. I do my own regs after completing a course and have all the required gear. Doesn't cost that much to do it right. Sounds like a dodgy setup.
 
How much should a normal (2yr) servicing run for an Atomic Z2x (1st & 2nd stage), assuming nothing is broken or damaged? Just curious because I got 2 quotes from different shops and they were $30 apart. Thanks.
 
You can tune a regulator, perhaps, without a Magnahelic but you cannot be consistent time and time again. Frankly, I consider them required.

I also very much like my ultrasonic cleaner, except when it removes the chrome.

A Dremal tool? Seriously?

N
 
I think a 9" angle grinder is more appropriate than a Dremal tool
 
You can tune a regulator, perhaps, without a Magnahelic but you cannot be consistent time and time again. Frankly, I consider them required.

N

I'm not so sure being consistent in terms of inches of water is the best possible tuning. There are small differences between 2 regulators of identical models and even between the edges on an orifice and, probably, elasticity in seat material, seat thickness, etc, that allow for differences in the lowest possible cracking effort. I can definitely feel this in my 109s and in my D300s, each of which I have several of. Some just tune better than others. I also think the spring condition is a factor. So I wouldn't want to set them all at the same cracking effort, I want each one to be the lowest I can get it.

But, as I said before, that's probably not the best route for a dive shop. Set it a bit too light and if it leaks after a few dives, the customer comes back, where I just tighten it up a bit.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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