Reg disassembly advice needed

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elan

Contributor
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Location
Toronto, Ontario, Canada
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I've got the following problem. I have Zeagle Flathead VI and need to service it. The service person was trying to disassemble it and everything went fine except one thing. The environmentally sealing cup got stuck to the other cup (not sure how it's called exactly - the one that closes the chamber I think). The point is that the Env cup is made of AL and the chamber closing one is made of SS. They both have holes for spanners but we cannot separate them. I used the reg mostly in fresh water (I did only 7 dives in salt at the beginning of the reg's carrier) It's been used for 1.5 years. We tried to heat it up (by boiling) , freezing, ultrasonic cleaning, etc, etc, nothing break them loose. I really do not want to order a new reg because of that dumb problem.

What can be done to make it simplier to separate them ? Can I use car solutions like liquid wrench etc? Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance
 
elan,
Probably your best bet is to call Zeagle. Ask for Jim Fox, who is their reg guru. I am sure he will have a solution for you.
 
I had the same problem with a Flathead VI I picked up on ebay (it had not been serviced in several years).

Tried heat, cold, hours of soaking..... no dice.

The solution for me was, cringe, a 4lb dead-blow hammer. I couldn't think of any other way to free it.

So I tried sharply "tapping" on the end of the pin spanner with the dead-blow hammer, then RAPPING with a bit more force... but still no go...... so as a last resort I gritted my teeth, made sure the 1st stage was very secure in the vice, and HIT the end of the spanner like I was driving a railroad spike .... and it freed-up. No damage to the reg, luckily all was good. But I really didn't like using that level of force.

If Zeagle has a better trick, please post it :D

Good luck.
 
I really do not want to order a new reg because of that dumb problem.

What can be done to make it simplier to separate them ? Can I use car solutions like liquid wrench etc? Any advice will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance

I agree with Lead Turn. If you've reached this point about not wanting to order a new reg, then ANYTHING can be done. Worst case: need a new reg. Usual case: a reg with tool marks on it. I think option B is cheaper. So have at it, use penetrating oil. USe a wrench. Use a hammer. You are servicing it after all.
 
elan: Be sure the tech "pads" the surface of the spanner where it contacts the reg... I use a bit of old bicycle inner tube, or the face of the spanner can be wrapped with tape... this reduces any "tool marks" if he ends up having to "smack it around" a bit to get it loose :wink:

To give you some hope: In my case, even after using "extreme measures" only very slight tool marks were left on the end cap, and zero damage to anything else, and the reg is working happily today :D

Good luck.
 
elan: Be sure the tech "pads" the surface of the spanner where it contacts the reg... I use a bit of old bicycle inner tube, or the face of the spanner can be wrapped with tape... this reduces any "tool marks" if he ends up having to "smack it around" a bit to get it loose :wink:

To give you some hope: In my case, even after using "extreme measures" only very slight tool marks were left on the end cap, and zero damage to anything else, and the reg is working happily today :D

Good luck.

Thanks a lot for the tips. I will tell this to him. We will be trying more next week.
I really love my FHVI :D
 
I have seen this problem about 100 times. The enviro diaphragm is friction trapped between the two pieces. I will bet that the problem is the soft rubber environmental diaphragm is preventing the two metal pieces from rotating due to extreme friction. The combination of over-tightening and the extreme friction of the diaphragm is making it impossible to move the two pieces. But, there is a solution.....

Take a hypodermic needle (small gauge) and fill the syringe with liquid silicone oil. Insert the needle between the rubber diaphragm and the aluminum cap. Squeeze a little bit of oil in, then move about 1/16" around and do it again. Repeat this until you have injected oil around the entire outside circumference of the diaphragm. Once there is sufficient oil to break the grasp the diaphragm has against the metal, it will move with normal (or near normal) effort.

Phil Ellis
Discount Scuba Gear at DiveSports.com - Buy Scuba Diving Equipment & Snorkeling Equipment
 
Thanks Phil!

The friction from the environmental seal does make sence.... and the one on the Zeagle has a "tacky" smooth surface, so I guess it could tend to bind if overtightened by the last tech who serviced the reg....

Best wishes.
 
Beat on it with an old Poseidon Cyklon as a hammer. Then, if you still can't get it loose, dive the Cyklon.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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