Recommendations for DIN valves

[filtered]

I'll be getting my Luxfer 40 cu ft tanks in soon. Anybody got any recommendations for DIN valves to get and the price? Preferbly with yoke inserts

 

[sheck33]

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I'll be getting my Luxfer 40 cu ft tanks in soon. Anybody got any recommendations for DIN valves to get and the price? Preferbly with yoke inserts

Actually i am looking for 40 cuft luxfers too.
But what do you want yoke inserts for

 

[Padipro]

Check out Ebay for DIN valves. I've bought several from there for about $35 each. Thankfully my 40 came with one, got that off Ebay too for $75.

I second sheck33's question about why you would want inserts for the DIN valve on a 40 cuft tank?

Scott

 

[filtered]

Padipro once bubbled...
Check out Ebay for DIN valves. I've bought several from there for about $35 each. Thankfully my 40 came with one, got that off Ebay too for $75.

I second sheck33's question about why you would want inserts for the DIN valve on a 40 cuft tank?

Scott

I'm using a DIN reg for the stage, but just in case the filling station where i'm at may not have a DIN whip, so i thought it may come in handy

 

[roakey]

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I'm using a DIN reg for the stage, but just in case the filling station where i'm at may not have a DIN whip, so i thought it may come in handy

Don't worry about the valve, just get one of these:

http://www.northeastscubasupply.com/tanks/din_filler.html

Actually I have a couple* so a shop can fill a several of my cylinders at once even if they don't have a DIN connection.

As for your original question, I'd just look into substituting a DIN valve for the normal K valve that comes with the cylinder. Buying the cylinder and valve together usually makes the valve cost on the order of $15-$20. If you can't buy them together, turn to Diver's Supply and get the Sea Elite DIN valves, but they'll be expensive in comparison. Another option if you think you'll ever go to doubles with some other cylinders is to get the full doubles manifold with the left and right plugs and plug them for now (though this will give you one right valve/left post knob).

Roak

* Note that the chrome filler only fits 300 BAR valves. The brass one will fit 200BAR valves. Problem with the brass one is that it may tighten down in a position that you can't get the filll whip on, which is why most shops have a couple of 'em (because of slight machining differences, they tigthen down at different points in their rotation).

Added on edit: I just compared my "deluxe" adapter against the picture on the NESS page, and it appears that they've modified it to fit 200 BAR valves too, but check. If so, I'd just spring for the deluxe one since it can be rotated to any position and you don't have to worry about not being able to get the fill whip on -- unless you're my local shop that has a kind of pneumatic fill whip that has this big flange that hits the tightening wheel, which is also why I have a couple of the brass ones .

 

[filtered]

Thanks for the helpful advice

Just one more question. I'll be filling the stage with oxygen, so is it alright to get any brand of valve and get them O2 cleaned, or will it be better to get one of the branded Thermo or Scubapro valves? Will it really matter?

Thx in advance

 

[pescador775]

Some claim that the correct valve soft parts are as crucial as O2 cleaning. For instance, the O rings should be replaced with Viton or similar. The valve seat may need to be replaced. The claim is that seats made of something called 2-2 nylon will eventually erode if exposed to high press O2. If grease is used, should be Krytox or Christolube.