PVC Housing: Question

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V. G. McGillicuddy

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Those of you read my previous thread are aware that I am building a housing for a video camera. The housing is nearly finished, but I have a question.

I used an epoxy to glue the latches onto the plastic. The epoxy is called "Anchor-Tite", which is made for underwater use and supposedly has a shear strength of 2500 pounds per square inch.
However, while I was tightening the latches down, one of the latch hooks popped off. I am hoping it was because of an incorrect mixing ratio (the one that came off was glued on with a differently mixed batch than the rest), but now my trust has been shaken and I am wondering if anyone else has had experience with this epoxy.
If worst comes to worst and I have to re-glue the whole thing, can anyone recommend a really good epoxy?

I will post a complete summary of the project when it is finished.

Thanks,
McGill
 
That's the funny thing. The bond broke off of the pipe, not the metal.
By the way, it popped off again this morning while I was tightening it down. It is the same one, too. The other three have been tightened down harder than this one and they haven't had a problem, so I'll give it one more try and let it cure for about a week before testing it.

Gotta Run,
McGill
 
V. G. McGillicuddy:
That's the funny thing. The bond broke off of the pipe, not the metal.
By the way, it popped off again this morning while I was tightening it down. It is the same one, too. The other three have been tightened down harder than this one and they haven't had a problem, so I'll give it one more try and let it cure for about a week before testing it.

Gotta Run,
McGill
You probably know this, but there are very specific adhesives for different materials. The loctite website has great information about how to make things stick. Going with their recommendation should guarantee the best results. Eastman was another manufacturer I turned to when I was in manufacturing.

I've often dreamed of doing what you are trying. Good luck. Show us some pics of the process.
 
It would be much better to use stainless screws to attach the latches. Sounds like your experience with the epoxy so far has not been good. Do you really want to trust it underwater with a camera inside? Do the latch parts mate with a flat areas on the housing, or are you trying to mount them on the circumference of a cylinder? Are you gluing to the factory (glossy) surface of the PVC or did you rough it up first?
 
Screws, if I used them, would have to be about 1/8" long or less, because they must bite into the wall of a PVC endcap without penetrating all the way through.
Actually, I am impressed by the strength of the epoxy on the other seven latch hooks (there are four on each end, minus the one that keeps failing). As I mentioned, I tightened them down much tighter than the troublesome one, just to see if they would break. They didn't, so I'm wondering if there was some kind of invisible film or other smeared on that part of the PVC.
So this time I did it right. I sanded it with fine sandpaper, then cleaned it with paint thinner before glueing the hook back on. The other seven, stupid as it is, were glued on without any preparation, except for a quick rub with a dry rag to remove any dust. And they're solid as a rock. So far, anyway. I'll ket them cure for about a week to reach maximum strength and then give 'em a good test. If they fail, well, does anyone know where I can get some really short stainless steel screws?
The epoxy is supposed to work on steel and hard plastics. It is called "Anchor-Tite", and if I remember right, it is made by the Super Glue company.

I'll get some pictures up as soon as I can. I've never done it before and am not quite sure how. When the housing is truly finished, I'll post up a report on how much it cost, etc.

Thanks All,
McGill
 
A picture of the housing has been posted! It can be found in the "Gear and Equipment" category, I think. Or just click on the picture link on my sidebar.
I will try to post more later. I am using dial-up, so it takes a while to upload.

Regards,
McGill
 
Hi,Seen your pic of case,Just made one and dove it no leaks! see my video of a Nurse shark in my photos!
I am sure you need not clamp your lens see my pick as to the PSI on case is in not out,
2nd I would use sch 40 not "sdr 22" its to thin.they say 40 will work down to 150 +FSW I will have to do the math
I will post a photo of my case,If you need more info PM me=love to help.
Brad
Hope this helps,Brad
 
I replied to your PM before I saw your post. Oops.
Maybe I'm dumb, but I don't get how your case is sealed. It looks like some kind of plug, but then there is that endcap with the clear lens. And why is it so long? I'm not trying to be critical or anything (after all, yours works and mine doesn't yet). I just don't understand. Is there something I'm missing?
I'll be sure to check out your gallery when I get a chance. By the way, do you know if infrared night vision works underwater?

Thanks,
McGill
 
Hi.
Infared you mean auto focus? it works great!
The case is not too long as the front coupling is cut down on one end and lens rests on a 4" O ring and sealer/Glue no need for clamps.
then section of 4" Sch 40 pvc sewer pipe, with coupling on other end and inside I use a 4" sewer test plug to seal it, then a 4" cap with 3lbs of lead glued in it to make it neutral in the water-this section is not glued it slides on and off real tight on the plug end and you need to pry it off after dive. it is like a second seal too!
This winter I am doing one same way all out of sch 80 and a 1/2" thick lens for a LakeMichigan video dive to 165'FSW for the "Rouse Simons" or Christmas tree ship, And to me a much nicer ship wreck the W.B.Allen off Clevland Wisconsin .

This is a shot my pal Swimjim took on the >W.B.Allen< on our last dive this year.Photo is of the hand water pump see the mast in the back ground? they both stick up to 90' FSW- This is a Great LakeMichigan wreck!
Brad
 

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