I'm awake and have just come back from Pulah Weh yesterday, after one of the best weeks diving I've ever had.
Lumbalumba on Gapang is the only dive shop still running and they were brilliant. Lovely dutch couple who've been there for 10 years so know the diving inside out. They were hit pretty hard by the tsunami but business as usual now. It was full moon when I was there so the currents were pretty strong, but easing off towards the end of the week. Strong currents meant loads of fish though, so full moon is actually a good time to go. Marine life was awesome (blacktip, white tip sharks, great trevallies, tuna, schools of barracuda, honeycomb morays, eagle rays, mantas (although I didn't see one), and more reef fish than you could shake a rattle at)- but what really got me were the fan corals, particularly between 30 and 40m at Batee Takong. So beautiful.
As far as accomodation goes, there's really basic bungalows on the beach or 2 slightly smarter resorts just up the road. I stayed at Leguna and got a huge room with balcony and bathroom for 85,000. The bungalows on the beach are about 30 I think. Everywhere fills up at the weekend with NGO's from Banda so try not to arrive on a saturday. For the rest of the week there was no one else there!
Email Ton and Marjan at Lumbalumba for advice - they're full of it!
Have a great time - Ton and Marjan need divers. Too many people think Pulah weh is not open/ruined/dangerous. It's not. It's easy to get too and brilliant.
Tim