Pre-order now goodman style handle for Scuba Flashlights! Designed on scubaboard

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OOwabbit

Question:
From what I can see it looks like the finish is not smouth like the origional concept image was.
It looks black and rough for the handle. The base and clamp look smouth. Is this true or just my eyes?
 
Brandon, I make a canister dive light that is doing pretty well sales wise and has a very loyal following on the NW dive club. I am interested in your handles and could be a regular customer if it turns out to be a well made unit. Contact me here or on the NW Dive club site under the same name.
 
OOwabbit

Question:
From what I can see it looks like the finish is not smouth like the origional concept image was.
It looks black and rough for the handle. The base and clamp look smouth. Is this true or just my eyes?

Hi. You are correct. The bent metal parts that form the handle do have a rough edge from the cutting process. I am making the manufacturer improve this. It should be improved in the next sample. It won't be as perfect as the renderings because they are computer generated.
I should get photos for the updates on Monday.
 
What did they cut that with? Laser or waterjet? If waterjet it was running too fast. I am interested in one or two. Is it possible to change the bolts so that the heads of the bolt or better yet a hexhead cap screw would be on top? Less of a snag or stab issue. Maybe anchor the block to the handle from below and then drill and tap the block for the bolts. That way if you had a larger or smaller light body you'd just change the bolt length. Make it a common thread and one easy to find in stainless at any hardware store. It's a really nice design.

One other note on the mfg end. They are using too sharp of a punch on the bends. Tell them to go to a 1/4 inch or maybe even 5/16 punch on a .93 die. Will get rid of that pinch point in the corners and take some of the stress off of the metal.
 
What did they cut that with? Laser or waterjet? If waterjet it was running too fast. I am interested in one or two. Is it possible to change the bolts so that the heads of the bolt or better yet a hexhead cap screw would be on top? Less of a snag or stab issue. Maybe anchor the block to the handle from below and then drill and tap the block for the bolts. That way if you had a larger or smaller light body you'd just change the bolt length. Make it a common thread and one easy to find in stainless at any hardware store. It's a really nice design.

One other note on the mfg end. They are using too sharp of a punch on the bends. Tell them to go to a 1/4 inch or maybe even 5/16 punch on a .93 die. Will get rid of that pinch point in the corners and take some of the stress off of the metal.

Jim,

Back when we were going through the concept process, the tapped/threaded block was kicked out because of the potential for corrosion/sand/etc. seizing it. I am thinking when I get mine to try and find SS "book screws" to lock the block together, thus eliminating the "snag" potential on top you are mentioning.

Good stuff on the manufacturing process!

Bob
 
Yes as mentioned before we moved away from tapping the aluminum because of a potential seizing issue. You could probably do it yourself if you wanted.

I already asked them to bend the brackets with a larger diameter so it looked cleaner and didn't stress the metal as much.
 
Well here we go DRIS just released a new shorter version of the 1000 light. It uses three AA' bundled together. I hope the Goodman handle will work with it.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2
 
I've got it on good authority that it will fit !!!

Good, I guess I will be ordering another new light. These should be awesome in the new handles. Can't wait to they them!

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2
 
Last edited:
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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