Post-dive regulator cleaning

[SSpiffy]

Had a discussion with dive buddy (well, as soon as he starts diving again...) regarding cleaning regulators after diving. One of us was of the opinion that the first stage never get submerged unless it is under pressure, so just hose it off; the other was of the opinion that, so long as the cap seals well, soak the darn thing to ensure all salt is out of any joints, hose crimps, etc.

So, what's you opinion?

 

[pocky21]

I prefer to rinse the regulators whilst under pressure, however sometimes I don't have that luxury and have to settle for a bathtub soak. I always double check the DIN cap for tightness, though, and if using a yoke reg I never submerge a 1st that has the cheap-o non sealing dust caps.

 

[buddhasummer]

I will only submerge 1st stage if pressurized, I'm not convinced my yoke cap seals 100%. If not pressurized I hold the 1stage with yoke facing down and run warm water over it.

---------- Post added July 3rd, 2013 at 02:09 AM ----------

Mines diaphragm if that makes any difference.

 

[lanta]

I treat the caps as dust covers. I doubt that they're engineered to keep water out of the first stage if submersed.

 

[redacted]

I have quite a few Scubapro 1sts and always soak them after a salt water trip for 6 to 12 hours. I rarely do that with them under pressure. I have never had a problem with the inlet protector (cap) failing to hold a seal and protect from water incursion. There are some connections on every regulator that simply can not be cleaned of salt water without a long soak. A rinse only cleans the exposed surfaces but does not get to places like unprotected threaded connections.

 

[buddhasummer]

I have quite a few Scubapro 1sts and always soak them after a salt water trip for 6 to 12 hours. I rarely do that with them under pressure. I have never had a problem with the inlet protector (cap) failing to hold a seal and protect from water incursion. There are some connections on every regulator that simply can not be cleaned of salt water without a long soak. A rinse only cleans the exposed surfaces but does not get to places like unprotected threaded connections.

Apeks caps are spherical and to me just don't seem right. I've been meaning to change them out but haven't gotten around to it yet.

 

[redacted]

Apeks caps are spherical and to me just don't seem right. I've been meaning to change them out but haven't gotten around to it yet.

If you are talking about the rubber ball style, I have used them also with no problem. The only ones I have really had to watch is the hard plastic ones with an o-ring. They work well as long as the o-ring is in place and the plastic is not cracked, but you need to be careful and check.

 

[beanojones]

Apeks caps are spherical and to me just don't seem right. I've been meaning to change them out but haven't gotten around to it yet.

Actually the rubber balls make it so that much of the O-Ring seling face can also be rinsed. When that face gets corroded, the Yoke nut has to be replaced so the Apeks ball is better than other options.

I retrofitted them to a bunch of my other regs for that reason.

 

[novasquid]

i was wondering, what would happen to the 1st stage if water did get in? would you have to take it apart to dry it, or can it be dried out on its own with just the dust cap off?

 

[James R]

I tested my Mk17 cap a while back, the day before I was going to service it. Easy test -- I cut the tip of a q-tip off and placed it in the cap, then submerged my reg for an hour. The q-tip tip was still dry. I soak all my regs in water and salt-away after trips to blue water and just rinse well after diving in the lake. They get 200+ dives a year on average. So far, so good. YMMV.