Possible Fresh Water Penetration In Apeks First Stage, Should I Service?

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If there is no filter then something is wrong. It's that brass thing way down there. If you haven't pressurized it since rinsing then there is no need to to remove the SPG. If the DIN inlet bore is dry then you can go ahead and purge it. Tank air is very dry so it should take whatever moisture got in. The reg will get cold but condensation shouldn't be much of a problem since I assume it's not as humid there as here in the Philippines.
 
I wouldn't be too worried about it, if I'm reading your description of what happened correctly. Here's what I would do. First make sure all the LP ports are plugged and the HP ports are open. This means removing the 2nd stages and replacing them with port plugs. Take both HP port plugs out (assuming there are two). So now you have a first stage with nothing attached except the LP inflator and open HP ports. Put this on a tank and open the valve for a few seconds, letting air blow out the HP ports. Shut the valve off, it may take a few seconds for all the air to bleed out. Take your BC, attach it to the LP inflator, and press the inflate button, this is to release any air that might have gotten trapped in the IP chamber.

Then put the HP port plugs in, and remove all the LP port plugs. Blow some air through those. I suspect you won't notice any water coming out of any of the ports, but you might notice some condensation on the 1st stage near the ports as everything gets cold from the air depressurizing.

Put the 2nd stages and SPG back on, the DIN cap on, and SOAK, don't rinse, in clean fresh water to remove the salt crystals that have dried on your first stage and any exposed threads. (That means threads that are not protected with an o-ring, like the DIN connector threads).

Then make a reminder to never loan your reg to this friend again.

BTW, you do have a filter, if you can't see it, it's hidden behind a part in the DIN retainer. That's the way it is with SP DIN retainers, I suspect apeks is similar. All first stages have filters. You wouldn't want to breathe chunks of crap from a dirty fill or a bit of rust in the tank, would you?
 
If there is no filter then something is wrong. It's that brass thing way down there. If you haven't pressurized it since rinsing then there is no need to to remove the SPG. If the DIN inlet bore is dry then you can go ahead and purge it. Tank air is very dry so it should take whatever moisture got in. The reg will get cold but condensation shouldn't be much of a problem since I assume it's not as humid there as here in the Philippines.

I just looked again, it looks like a long, cylindrical hole (about 5cm deep) with a brass (looking) plate at the end. I read the instruction manual which mentions a conical filter, which might be what I'm referring to, it doesn't look like the paper filters on A-Clamp regs though.
 
I wouldn't be too worried about it, if I'm reading your description of what happened correctly. Here's what I would do. First make sure all the LP ports are plugged and the HP ports are open. This means removing the 2nd stages and replacing them with port plugs. Take both HP port plugs out (assuming there are two). So now you have a first stage with nothing attached except the LP inflator and open HP ports. Put this on a tank and open the valve for a few seconds, letting air blow out the HP ports. Shut the valve off, it may take a few seconds for all the air to bleed out. Take your BC, attach it to the LP inflator, and press the inflate button, this is to release any air that might have gotten trapped in the IP chamber.

Then put the HP port plugs in, and remove all the LP port plugs. Blow some air through those. I suspect you won't notice any water coming out of any of the ports, but you might notice some condensation on the 1st stage near the ports as everything gets cold from the air depressurizing.

Put the 2nd stages and SPG back on, the DIN cap on, and SOAK, don't rinse, in clean fresh water to remove the salt crystals that have dried on your first stage and any exposed threads. (That means threads that are not protected with an o-ring, like the DIN connector threads).

Then make a reminder to never loan your reg to this friend again.

BTW, you do have a filter, if you can't see it, it's hidden behind a part in the DIN retainer. That's the way it is with SP DIN retainers, I suspect apeks is similar. All first stages have filters. You wouldn't want to breathe chunks of crap from a dirty fill or a bit of rust in the tank, would you?

Thanks for the advice. I don't have any blanking plugs, so I would have to leave both 2nd stages on, or leave the ports open, is this acceptable? The regs were washed in water from a shower head and weren't sprayed into the ports so I don't think I'll need to soak again.
 
If the HP plug has been out for a few days, I imagine that any moisture in there has long-ago evaporated. Remove the hoses from the first stage, stick on a tank a run some air through it more a minute or so, stick the hoses back on and go diving.

If your reg had been dunked in salt water, it would need some love, but as long as you are sure it was fresh water, you should be good to go.
 
Yes the brass plate is the conical filter. If you don't have blanking plugs then just take everything off and purge it. It might get noisy. Stay clear/do not look into the ports, particularly at the HP ports as high pressure air can cause seriou injury. You can soak everything after but I suggest you do it pressurized since you seem to have access to a tank. The DIN cap is called a "dust" cap and not a "water"cap for a reason. I soak my regs overnigh pressurized. You also need to "rinse" the 2nd stage several times since it has convoluted internals which may still harbor some salt water.
 
BTW, that boot for the SPG will also retain salt water. You can slide it off the guage then pull the the hose through to remove it.
Thanks for the tips, it's a combo (depth and SPG) so it's a more complex design, it has screws in the back, but as another user said, if i hvaen't pressurized it since then I probably won't need to clear it, I'll take the hose off though
 
UPDATE:

I took the regs home today and I:
- Removed everything except from the 2nd stage and LPI, and ran some gas through it - there was small amounts of water spitting out of the two open LP ports
- Added the other LPI and 2nd stage (so only the HP ports remained open) and did it again - no visable water through these.
- Strangely, there was a very small amount of water in the port where my SPG goes when I initially disassembled it, but no water came out under pressure.

Also, strangely enough, I had no issues depressurizing the regs, and when I pressed the purge button on the 2nd stages, no audible air was released, strange....
 
Removed everything except from the 2nd stage and LPI, and ran some gas through it - there was small amounts of water spitting out of the two open LP ports

You should just have left the ports open as I suggested earlier. If you purged the 2nd stage and used the BC inflator while you pressurized the regs then your hoses are now wet. If not, don't sweat it. Are you sure your friend did not soak the reg with the port open? Those rinse tanks are as bad as salt water.

Strangely, there was a very small amount of water in the port where my SPG goes when I initially disassembled it, but no water came out under pressure.

Bad sign. Are you sure you did not pressurize it after the "shower". You can blow some air through the HP hose with another reg - if you have one - to clear it. You also have to disconnect and examine the SPG.

Also, strangely enough, I had no issues depressurizing the regs, and when I pressed the purge button on the 2nd stages, no audible air was released, strange....

The HP port was open so no pressure in your first stage.

If all these overwhelms you, then maybe it's time to seek professional help. Is your reg due or near due for service? Then it might be time to take it in. The problem with water in the first stage is that it might cause corrosion in the critical part the - HP seat. If it is an Apeks FSR (XTX 200) then that critical part is replaceable. For now leave all the ports open to allow it to dry.
 
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