Please help with parts for my Scubapro 2nd stages

[Six2Life]

The guy I talked to from Northeast about their plastic orifice said it would fit an R190 but he wasn't sure about the metal 109's.

I'll pick one up and try it in a 109 and if it doesn't work I'll just save it for my 190 octo.

 

[redacted]

The guy I talked to from Northeast about their plastic orifice said it would fit an R190 but he wasn't sure about the metal 109's.

I'll pick one up and try it in a 109 and if it doesn't work I'll just save it for my 190 octo.

They are interchangeable so it will be good to go. Only difference is the o-ring. I use -010 on the plastic orifice and -902 (I believe) with the metal orifice.

 

[LeadTurn_SD]

I made ONE attempt at this... and failed miserably.

It's a factory defect orifice, the chrome is drooling at the tip, the seating area. I flatten the tip, then sharpen it from the inside. Looks OK under the loupe, but breathes like a pig. The one on the right below is my master piece.

So my conclusion is, brass or plastic, if you can get it to crack at around 1 inch of water, call it a day and leave it alone.

View attachment 101784

On second thought, maybe I should sharpen it some more. Maybe next weekend.

Brother zung,

I concur with Master awap.... you probably need to go "sharper" now that you've flattened the "bumps".

I resurfaced the orifice that came in my first -109.... the chrome edge was chipped, resulting in the higher sealing force required and thus "pig-like" breathing (good, descriptive, technical term Zung!).

I used a very low-tech "stone age" approach, but it worked: I used a flat knife sharpening stone, and ran a thin Phillips head screwdriver through the hole in the orifice to act as a spindle or axle, and slowly turned the orifice with with very slight downward pressure to grind it.... I was able control the "angle of attack" more easily using the screwdriver as an axle... sort of a primitive lathe... and ended up with an "ok" edge.

It reduced the cracking effort from 2.4" to 1.2"? Something like that. Not quite as good a brand new orifice maybe, but more than "good enough".

Best wishes.

 

[halocline]

I think SP now sells the metal orifice as a replacement for the G250V, but I imagine it's pricey. I've resurfaced a couple of old orifices using micromesh wrapped around a tapered wooden dowel, and it worked okay.

 

[Six2Life]

I received one of the Northeast orifices yesterday. They don't work in 109's. At least they didn't work in mine. The length is about 1/8" or so longer than the original SP orifice so when tuned properly there isn't enough room for the hose fitting to seat all the way.

I was told by NSS that these will work in R190's. Since the SP orifices for the 190 and 109 are the same (although metal vs. plastic) the 190 would have to have more forgiving spacing to allow this orifice to work in that 2nd stage. So I'm not sure what these are actually supposed to work in.

 

[halocline]

One difference between using one in a R190 and an old 109 is that the lever height in the R190 is independently adjustable, but in the barrel poppet regs the orifice adjustment is the lever height adjustment. Maybe that's causing the problem you're having.

I pulled a metal orifice out of an old sherwood (I think) 2nd stage and it works fine in the 109.

 

[redacted]

I received one of the Northeast orifices yesterday. They don't work in 109's. At least they didn't work in mine. The length is about 1/8" or so longer than the original SP orifice so when tuned properly there isn't enough room for the hose fitting to seat all the way.

I was told by NSS that these will work in R190's. Since the SP orifices for the 190 and 109 are the same (although metal vs. plastic) the 190 would have to have more forgiving spacing to allow this orifice to work in that 2nd stage. So I'm not sure what these are actually supposed to work in.

If it is just a little bit off, you could try a shim between the hose connection and the body. There is plenty of seating surface there but you do need to get enough torque to hold. Might be hard to find a shim of proper ID and OD to fit over the body threads but not protrude too much.

Easier solution might be to take some material off the spring pad surface that contacts the adjuster. If you try that and it screws things up, I do have a few spare spring pads.

Heck, you could even remove a little material from the outside face of the orifice as long as it does not compromise the o-ring.

Unless it is way too long, you should be able to make it work.

 

[DA Aquamaster]

If you have an older SP hose with the protruding nub for the inlet swivel o-ring, its a problem, otherwise it should not be an issue if the orifice is ball park the correct length.

Thinning the spring pad will reduce the spring tension, but as noted above, it is a single adjustment reg, so the seat to lever relationship is what establishes the lever height. Consequently, regardless of the spring pressure, if the orifice is too far in, the lever will be too low and the working range of the valve will be seriously compromised.

You just can't dick around with the dimensions or the spring pressure on a single adjustment air barrel design and expect to get it to work right. If any single part is out of spec, it will cause issues.