Please help with parts for my Scubapro 2nd stages

[Zung]

Yes you do.
But you still have to pay for labor. And this generates a stream of revenue for your LDS, whether your gear really need it or not.

 

[redacted]

When I was able to buy them, I believe I was paying $12 to $15 per so the price was good. Plus you should be able to sell the extras with no loss if you choose. With a spring and spring pad, you could even convert the G250 to a more easily maintained 2nd. But I'm sure the S-wing poppet with seat will also show up. Patience is the key.

 

[Six2Life]

Happy ending!
Check out my test report so you don't regret your purchase.

I did read that earlier. Good to know.

The 109's will likely be going on MK5's and MK10's so it sounds like the balancing may make a bigger difference with those first stages. Even if it is a significant improvement the super cheap and easy seat and o-ring serviceability of the unbalanced version is hard to pass up.

Does anyone know if the orifices included in those northeast kits are suitable for any of these 2nd stages? A couple of the chrome ones I have look like they may not pass muster.

 

[redacted]

isnt is supposed that if you bought your regulator in an authorized dealer you will get the warranty that covers all the parts needed replace on your yearly service?

Yep. $25+ worth of "free" parts for $75+ dollars worth of mostly unnecessary service. What a bargain. If you can't or won't DIY then that may be the best solution.

 

[Six2Life]

When I was able to buy them, I believe I was paying $12 to $15 per so the price was good. Plus you should be able to sell the extras with no loss if you choose. With a spring and spring pad, you could even convert the G250 to a more easily maintained 2nd. But I'm sure the S-wing poppet with seat will also show up. Patience is the key.

I wasn't complaining about the price. You never saw someone hit the "Buy it Now" button so fast!

It is just interesting how it seems like sometimes you can buy a whole box full of these good old scubapro's for about the same cost as replacing a few of the plastic bits inside them.

 

[redacted]

I did read that earlier. Good to know.

The 109's will likely be going on MK5's and MK10's so it sounds like the balancing may make a bigger difference with those first stages. Even if it is a significant improvement the super cheap and easy seat and o-ring serviceability of the unbalanced version is hard to pass up.

Does anyone know if the orifices included in those northeast kits are suitable for any of these 2nd stages? A couple of the chrome ones I have look like they may not pass muster.

Give them a call and ask. If they are not sure (I suspect they will be) then order one for $7. They sure do look right. I'm just not sure that a 109 will not self destruct with a plastic orifice.

Please let us know what you find out.

 

[Couv]

Nice find.

Try using a bit of Matt Magic on the orifices. This thread http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/re...6-scubapro-piston-there-life-after-death.html
explains the steps in refinishing a piston hard seat, but no reason it won't work on an orifice. Just be careful as the orifice is made of brass.

Note: Matt Magic is the old term, but it has better alliterative qualities than "Halo Magic."

c

 

[Zung]

I made ONE attempt at this... and failed miserably.

It's a factory defect orifice, the chrome is drooling at the tip, the seating area. I flatten the tip, then sharpen it from the inside. Looks OK under the loupe, but breathes like a pig. The one on the right below is my master piece.

So my conclusion is, brass or plastic, if you can get it to crack at around 1 inch of water, call it a day and leave it alone.



On second thought, maybe I should sharpen it some more. Maybe next weekend.

 

[redacted]

I made ONE attempt at this... and failed miserably.

It's a factory defect orifice, the chrome is drooling at the tip, the seating area. I flatten the tip, then sharpen it from the inside. Looks OK under the loupe, but breathes like a pig. The one on the right below is my master piece.

So my conclusion is, brass or plastic, if you can get it to crack at around 1 inch of water, call it a day and leave it alone.

View attachment 101784

On second thought, maybe I should sharpen it some more. Maybe next weekend.

I have not tried cleaning up an LP hard seat but would have thought it needs to be sharper. I don't think I would have started by flattening it. Clean it up (sharpen it) from the inside and see what happens.

 

[Zung]

Oh, the tip of that one straight out of the original packaging looked like the Alps, so I had to flaten it. The QA guy was asleep I guess.

But I'll try to sharpen it if it rains the coming weekend.