Question Please help with identifying this old regulator

[happy-diver]

did you call this guy

Scubapro Mk 5 Mk 7 Mk 10 More 1st Stg Reg HP Cave Cone Seat10-101-151 Yr Choice | eBay

Scubapro Mk 5 Mk 7 Mk 10 and more1st Stg Reg HP Cave Cone Seat 10-101-151. These are genuine Scubapro parts, not reproduction. Retired certified repair technician is reducing parts inventory. Many older, 20 years and more Scubapro, Oceanic, Dacor, etc parts kits, soft parts, and hard parts.

www.ebay.com.au

The seat has been used on both sides unfortunately so just turning it over won't suffice

 

[Tom_Ivan]

did you call this guy

View attachment 710162

Not quite. Followed GJC's advise and polished the best side down with a bit of paper. Haven't reassembled it yet but it looks like it worked a treat!

 

[happy-diver]

You were here

Couple of further questions
-Any tips for getting the hard seat out without damage? I've tried using compressed air from behind but there is quite a bit of corrosion holding it in.

then got to here

The seat has been used on both sides unfortunately so just turning it over won't suffice

without a hint of explanation, or acknowledgement of those attempting to assist you

Place the seat and carrier in the yoke with the flat side toward the yoke screw. Install the yoke/seat carrier on the tank valve with a sealing washer between the two. Put a glove or cloth over the missile-->slowly turn on the air.

I would bet a Scubapro MK5/10 seat will work in that regulator.

@Nemrod will probably know for sure.

Edit: See this post ID of older first stage.

Like this guy, did you know, he sits waiting for his computer to beep, hoping it is you


You are a zipper that zips around from here to there with your end your only concern

 

[Tom_Ivan]

You are a zipper that zips around from here to there with your end your only concern

And this is you...

Who can't read...

without a hint of explanation, or acknowledgement of those attempting to assist you

Thanks for all the responses.

With nothing better to do with your time than be an internet troll.

So why don't you go away and leave people who are doing good work to their own devices. Go head to the pub if you want to have a bitch about something. Or stay and try to be constructive because your not living up to your Scubaboard name very well at the moment.

 

[Tom_Ivan]

The job is finished.

Thanks @Couv , @GJC ,@axxel57 and @AfterDark for your help.

All parts clean and shinned, new o-rings, HP seat had been polished smooth and I've followed Pete Wolfingers advice and cycled it 300 times to properly bed in the HP seat.

I'm getting 128psi on a 50bar cylinder and about 136psi on a 200 bar cylinder. I'm pretty happy with that.

Time to take it diving I think.

 

[AfterDark]

The job is finished.

Thanks @Couv , @GJC ,@axxel57 and @AfterDark for your help.

All parts clean and shinned, new o-rings, HP seat had been polished smooth and I've followed Pete Wolfingers advice and cycled it 300 times to properly bed in the HP seat.

I'm getting 128psi on a 50bar cylinder and about 136psi on a 200 bar cylinder. I'm pretty happy with that.

Time to take it diving I think.

JWD Job Well Done!

 

[happy-diver]

How about you make a thanks with some photos

Too busy, run out of film

try to be constructive

And have some compassion man I'm on a journey here

 

[Nemrod]

The HP seat will blow out with air. Sometimes you have to insist. Push it up tight against the O-ring of a filled tank, something will give, lol. Take another tank O-ring, the fat ones, stick it on top of the O-ring already in the valve, in other words, stack them. You may have to stick it in place with silicone grease or just hold it with your fingers. Then press the cap hard against the exposed O-ring and crack the valve open. Like I said, the seat will go flying out like it was fired from a pellet rifle! Put a towel over it or grab a baseball mitt and have somebody you do not like attempt to catch the seat!

The Scubapro cave cone seats do make an improvement but the flat seats do fine. Yes they fit. These are basically the same as the Mark V except better as they had the stainless turret screw, better chrome (IMO) and nearly 100% parts compatibility. And the ambient holes are plenty large enough to get a good post dive rinse. If you can find a new or older heavy Scubapro yoke you can fool all but the most astute into thinking it is a Mark V.

James

 

[herman]

I haven't seen anyone mention this, the orings that are subject to high pressure need to be 85-90 durometer, not the more common 70, basically all of the one in the main body. If you use 70, they are more likely to extrude (blow out) and can cause IP issues.

 

[boat sju]

I know I'm late to this party but did anyone mention brass vs. stainless turret screws?