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Good question. It’s only designed for a single o-ring, but you can add a 1/16” thick ring gasket sandwiched between the lid & top of canister (see the detail drawing for the 2.5” ID canister lid & sealing surfaces, below). I think I’m going to ask the machine shop to make one for each canisters.

I can design the lid with double o-rings, but it’ll have 1” thick lid & 1/4” less head space if you are interested. Just let me know.

View attachment 523208

Received the Viton gasket today & installed it for 2nd seal, as shown below.
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Also I just realized that the canister was not tethered to the lid. So I asked the shop to glue a pad with a hole to the bottom of the canister for tethering the canister with the rest of my gadgets.
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Hopefully the weather will be good enough for testing them in Flower Garden Banks on Saturday.
 
What canister OD those waist belt mounts are designed for?
Standard DiveRite Slim-Line canister.....2.5 inches in diameter. Should fit the Light Monkey canister, which I assume is the same size as the Diverite one.
The hose clamp is not quite long enough to go around the Custom Divers canister, but the elastic part will stretch. I had an extra piece of sewn webbing so put my own hose clamp on and used some heavy bungee for the elastic part. Now on my CD canister and I'll try it out next dive trip, on my waist strap just behind the weight pocket.
 
Standard DiveRite Slim-Line canister.....2.5 inches in diameter. Should fit the Light Monkey canister, which I assume is the same size as the Diverite one.
The hose clamp is not quite long enough to go around the Custom Divers canister, but the elastic part will stretch. I had an extra piece of sewn webbing so put my own hose clamp on and used some heavy bungee for the elastic part. Now on my CD canister and I'll try it out next dive trip, on my waist strap just behind the weight pocket.
Photos please?

Cheers - Michael
 
Photos please?

Cheers - Michael
Here you go. The fat o-ring on the bungee is to make it easier to grab, but it is not really necessary. The metal ring through the CD cap is a stainless-steel cable key ring. I figured if I needed to open it at sea, I could use a double-ender to hold the cap. I could also thread the key-ring through the bungee and/or o-ring if I were really paranoid.
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Standard DiveRite Slim-Line canister.....2.5 inches in diameter. Should fit the Light Monkey canister, which I assume is the same size as the Diverite one.
The hose clamp is not quite long enough to go around the Custom Divers canister, but the elastic part will stretch. I had an extra piece of sewn webbing so put my own hose clamp on and used some heavy bungee for the elastic part. Now on my CD canister and I'll try it out next dive trip, on my waist strap just behind the weight pocket.

Thanks! What are the CD canister’s ID & height?

For £78 ($100), it’s certainly great price, cheaper than my custom made acrylic canister. It’s double o-ring seals too!
 
Thanks! What are the CD canister’s ID & height?

For £78 ($100), it’s certainly great price, cheaper than my custom made acrylic canister. It’s double o-ring seals too!
The dimensions are on the Custom Divers website. The only downside I can see is that it is very hard to open if you crank it down tightly, which there is no need to do because of the double o-ring seal. I put a mark on my case to indicate where to stop the tightening, just a bit short of too tight.
 
Got it. You sparked my interest when you mentioned 2.5”, as I was looking for smaller canister. This CD canister is actually closed to 3” OD. That’s the reason I made my own 2.5” OD acrylic canister. 3” OD is just too wide to fit in my BCD pocket.

CD Canister Specification:
External dimensions: 75 x 125mm (W x H)
Internal dimensions: 61 x 115mm (Dia x H)
Depth Rating: 180 m
Material of Construction: High Grade PVC.
Color: Black
 
. 3” OD is just too wide to fit in my BCD pocket.
I don't have any pockets, so that is not an issue for me.
 
The dimensions are on the Custom Divers website. The only downside I can see is that it is very hard to open if you crank it down tightly, which there is no need to do because of the double o-ring seal. I put a mark on my case to indicate where to stop the tightening, just a bit short of too tight.

I have the same problem with my 2.5” OD canister, being too hard to open. So I redesigned it with fat o-ring sandwich between the lid & top of the 1/4” (6mm) thick wall canister. It’s now much easier to open it.

We’ll see how it performs at 100’ depth in a couple days.

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