PLBs Can Save Your Life

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No, I was just wondering based on my believe/experience that 2 probably better.

Perhaps the viton gasket works similarly?
 
That’s my first thought when I design it.

I look forward to the test results
 
The water that is sure to enter at depth shouldn't hurt the glow sticks. :)

And if it's just a leak, and not a full blowout that exerts full pressure of depth on it, won't hurt the PLB either as they are waterproof. In other words, it doesn't really matter if a PLB canister leaks some water.
 
And if it's just a leak, and not a full blowout that exerts full pressure of depth on it, won't hurt the PLB either as they are waterproof. In other words, it doesn't really matter if a PLB canister leaks some water.

That’s right. It depends on the leak rate. As long as there are still air bubbles in the canister cavity by the time you are back to the surface, no problem.

If the leak rate is huge & the air cavity is completely displaced by the water at depth beyond the waterproof rating of the PLB (mine is 50’ or 15m). Then Houston We Have a Problem.
 
If the leak rate is huge & the air cavity is completely displaced by the water at depth beyond the waterproof rating of the PLB (mine is 50’ or 15m). Then Houston We Have a Problem.

That's what I meant by "not a full blowout". :)
 
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Light Monkey can is one o-ring. Albeit a big ass o-ring.

Mine too, 3/16” thick.

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Actually o-ring doesn’t need to be big. It needs an even & square surface. All it needs is a ring line around the sealing surfaces.

If you use it as a gasket, the force of compression would extrude & shear the o-ring to a wavy surface leading up to a leak. The right seal in this type of sealing design would be a flat gasket ring (not an o-ring), which would cover the whole ring contact surface width rather than a line ring.

You need to use o-ring for what it is designed for in groove with the right compression, not by how hard you wrench on the cap.

Even when the o-ring is sitting in a groove, if the axis of the screw on the lid is not parallel with that of the canister, you may not have a good seal. I have seen a bad machine work (with runout > tolerance) the o-ring seal contact surface more flat on one side than on the other side, 180 degree away, which leading to leaking. As you crank down on the lid, the o-ring contact surface become wider on on side and thinner on the other side. Then Houston We Have A Problem.

That’s why it’s good to have a clear canister where you can see the evenness of the o-ring contact ring surface width, 360 degree around the canister wall.
 

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