f3nikon
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Tried scanning some old slides. Software is not my thing. How much can Photoshop improve this under exposed picture? Thanks.
Photoshop help.
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Excuse my novice question, but what res. should I be using? After the scan I get a TIFF image of 3.8MB or choices of 193k JPEG, Bitmap etc. I tried posting the largest file but the attachment is limited to only 100k. Please advise
I also had to resize these shots as well, I was shooting wide angle then I found these two at the far end of the reef. I could not get a tighter crop because I was at the min. focus limit of the Nikon 20mm. And to top it off, the main center strobe (out of three strobes) did not fire! I assure you this will not happen when I start with the digitial, due to the LCD feedback. Thanks
PS. someone just told me to zip the files, now I trying to figure out how to "zip" a file as well.
I also had to resize these shots as well, I was shooting wide angle then I found these two at the far end of the reef. I could not get a tighter crop because I was at the min. focus limit of the Nikon 20mm. And to top it off, the main center strobe (out of three strobes) did not fire! I assure you this will not happen when I start with the digitial, due to the LCD feedback. Thanks
PS. someone just told me to zip the files, now I trying to figure out how to "zip" a file as well.
OK... they are way compressed as JPG's... If you want to e-mail me a TIFF file... I can put it on my web server, and give it a better go... The way they are now, it's really hard to do anything.
PM me if you want me to post them for you...(if you don't have your own website)
Either you can do that, or post them in your SB photo gallery, and then post the link from there.
PM me if you want me to post them for you...(if you don't have your own website)
Either you can do that, or post them in your SB photo gallery, and then post the link from there.
Hi f3:
What software are you using? You should have the option of converting that nice big TIFF to a fairly large Jpeg. I suggest 8x10 at 100ppi and a medium quality Jpeg you can post to your gallery.
I tried Photoshop exposure, shadows/highlights, and curves adjustments. Of the 3 I liked the curves the best. CS2 has a great new noise reduction filter that also removes Jpeg artifacts (your image had a bunch) which I applied and then tried a smart sharpen on the image to pull in some detail without too much loss of quality.
This is the best I can do on the image as posted. If you can get a higher res up, I will take another shot.
---Bob
What software are you using? You should have the option of converting that nice big TIFF to a fairly large Jpeg. I suggest 8x10 at 100ppi and a medium quality Jpeg you can post to your gallery.
I tried Photoshop exposure, shadows/highlights, and curves adjustments. Of the 3 I liked the curves the best. CS2 has a great new noise reduction filter that also removes Jpeg artifacts (your image had a bunch) which I applied and then tried a smart sharpen on the image to pull in some detail without too much loss of quality.
This is the best I can do on the image as posted. If you can get a higher res up, I will take another shot.
---Bob
fairybasslet
Contributor
ScubaBOBuba:
Wow. That came out really nice. I just got photoshop elements yesteday, but haven't played with it yet. I'm still trying to figure out my camera. Went shooting yesterday and really had no idea what I was doing.
What do you want to do with this photo?
If you are interested in printing it, then you really need it to be at least 240 ppi for most printers.
If you are interested in just seeing it on your computer, then 72 ppi is fine.
One thing you can try to do bring up the picture, hit ctl J (cmd J on a Mac) and that creates a new layer on top of the original layer. In the layers palate you can then change the type of layer, from normal to, say screen, to bring out more detail. You can do this as many times as you want, and then adjust the opacity on the top layer.
This is a fix for a shot that went haywire, and can be useful.
Just remember, if you are keeping this as a JPEG, everytime you open it and save it again (not just open it and close it) you are losing information...and eventually you will wind up with a jagged photo that is pretty worthless.
In my studio, we use JPEGs ONLY for sending as very small proofs to clients.
Is the original photo that dark, or was it a scanning issue?
Jeff
If you are interested in printing it, then you really need it to be at least 240 ppi for most printers.
If you are interested in just seeing it on your computer, then 72 ppi is fine.
One thing you can try to do bring up the picture, hit ctl J (cmd J on a Mac) and that creates a new layer on top of the original layer. In the layers palate you can then change the type of layer, from normal to, say screen, to bring out more detail. You can do this as many times as you want, and then adjust the opacity on the top layer.
This is a fix for a shot that went haywire, and can be useful.
Just remember, if you are keeping this as a JPEG, everytime you open it and save it again (not just open it and close it) you are losing information...and eventually you will wind up with a jagged photo that is pretty worthless.
In my studio, we use JPEGs ONLY for sending as very small proofs to clients.
Is the original photo that dark, or was it a scanning issue?
Jeff
howarde:
I'll email you the file. These pictures are more of the "learning shots" that I am reviewing so I don't make the same mistakes in digital photograhpy. I am always trying to find ways to make the picture "right" in the first place to keep from bothering you guys.
Thanks for the help.
Al
Of course, how you present it also makes a difference.[/IMG]
PM me if you want some tips.
Jeff
PM me if you want some tips.
Jeff
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