derway
Contributor
Nice pix, and thanks for posting!
I'm shocked to hear you complain about noise, when comparing with a g10. I mean the sensor is 7-8 times the size.
Weren't you always shooting the g10 at ISO 100? Perhaps the epl2 was in auto ISO?
Many/most folks prefer to just shoot in RAW, underwater, so they can fix the WB after the fact, with less task loading.. Have you tried it?
P mode or full auto is impossible, when you want to take full control of the DOF, and freezing shutter little fishies.
In A mode, the problem is the shutter speed can get too slow, and between us bouncing around in the surge, and the fishes trying to get away, things get blurry.
Some cameras have a setting for the slowest shutter speed it will use, in A mode, and some make it faster, when you turn on the flash.. Does the epl2 have such a facility?
Many folks just give up, and use M mode - that way you can set the aperture to best image quality for the conditions and the lens, to make sure the corners of the dome's virtual image are in focus, and the lens is not too wide open for bad blur, or too much tightly closed for bad diffraction blur.. And you can set shutter speed to make sure you get no motion blur!
The cool thing, with your camera, that I've just been researching, is you can use auto ISO in M mode, (it takes changing some menu item to allow it), and then you can set the shutter speed, and f-stop to your liking, and let the camera set the ISO to match!
Is that not cool? You loose the exposure compensation though. Try it out, on land...
I'm shocked to hear you complain about noise, when comparing with a g10. I mean the sensor is 7-8 times the size.
Weren't you always shooting the g10 at ISO 100? Perhaps the epl2 was in auto ISO?
Many/most folks prefer to just shoot in RAW, underwater, so they can fix the WB after the fact, with less task loading.. Have you tried it?
P mode or full auto is impossible, when you want to take full control of the DOF, and freezing shutter little fishies.
In A mode, the problem is the shutter speed can get too slow, and between us bouncing around in the surge, and the fishes trying to get away, things get blurry.
Some cameras have a setting for the slowest shutter speed it will use, in A mode, and some make it faster, when you turn on the flash.. Does the epl2 have such a facility?
Many folks just give up, and use M mode - that way you can set the aperture to best image quality for the conditions and the lens, to make sure the corners of the dome's virtual image are in focus, and the lens is not too wide open for bad blur, or too much tightly closed for bad diffraction blur.. And you can set shutter speed to make sure you get no motion blur!
The cool thing, with your camera, that I've just been researching, is you can use auto ISO in M mode, (it takes changing some menu item to allow it), and then you can set the shutter speed, and f-stop to your liking, and let the camera set the ISO to match!
Is that not cool? You loose the exposure compensation though. Try it out, on land...
