Pelagics in Indo?

[Travelnsj]

I would be surprised if you are disappointed with Raja Ampat. Like Swisstrav, I did a live aboard trip on Temukira there last year and it was up with the best I have ever done. As others have said, the most stunning coral you are likely to see, massive fish life (but not a lot of really big stuff other than Mantas) and heaps of unusual stuff. Checking out Lembeh while you are in the area is an absolute must for something completely different.

I have also done Layang Layang twice and it is one of my favourite places.

If you want to get an idea of what you can see at RA, Lembeh & Layang, check out my photos at lfindlay001's photos and albums on webshots

I haven't done Palau as yet but I know it is fantastic. Still it's always good to see other places. I did an article on the RA trip so if you would like a copy just PM me with your email address & I'll send it to you.

Go for it.

Lee

Leeaf.....thanks for your 2psi.....I will PM you for the RA report as I will be there in the next couple of months.

I am headed to Layang Layang in April....wish you had been to Palau would like to hear the comparison.

 

[Travelnsj]

leeaf....just looked at the photos for Layang Layang....where is the big stuff?

 

[leeaf]

Hi Scott, I did that trip in Aug (2005) which is right at the end of the season (they actually close the resort at the end of Aug) and there was not much in the way of big stuff. I just checked my logbook and I saw a solo hammerhead out in the blue on one dive but that was it. Only other 'big' stuff was some dogtooth tuna, a couple of grey reefs, whitetips and a few turtles.

April is the heart of the hammerhead 'season' but don't expect schools of them and they are often down deep in 60m, so getting close enough to get a decent photo is quite often difficult. The dive routine at Layang is:

8.00am - max depth 40m. Once the group hits 40m they usually swim off the reef into the blue until you can't see the reef anymore. Hang out in the blue for 5 mins and see what comes along. This is usually the best chance of seeing hammers and the two best sites are either end of the atoll - The Point and Valley.

11.00am - max 30m

3.00pm - max 20m

They are strict on the depth limits and if you exceed 40m they will make you skip the next dive the first time you do it and thenm ban you if you do it again. Having said that 40m is usually deep enough for most people.

It's the ocean so there are no guarantees so you should go there with the view that if you see a few hammers it's a plus. The previous time I went to Layang in 1999 it was in June and we saw hammers on about 6 dives but only got reasonably close to one once. The diving in Layang is excellent - usually great vis, no more than 10 mins to most sites, slick dive operation and nice accommodation. With or without the hammers it is still very good.

Lee

 

[Wayan]

Hello Wayan, I think that sharks and bigger stuff like giant trevally are almost always there, you may not see them, but they're there. I saw sharks on almost every dive in Ambon and at least once a day in Komodo-at Crystal Bommie there were 6 or more grey reefs and blacktips around for all of both late afternoon dives I did.

Diving with a rebreather certainly helps me blend in with the scenery, but I would suggest that one reason why many divers don't see much big stuff in Indo is most diveboats put too many people in the water at the same time. Word of advice for those of you who want to see more big stuff: do that last daylight dive that no one else wants to do and make sure you go with the most experienced DM who will know how to keep a low profile on the reef...

Hi there Silent running,

glad you had a great trip to some point I agree, however, what needs to be realized is that shark fishing/finning is still very much prominent here in Indonesia. And there just are not a lot of sharks around (yes there some but not a lot)

Some conversation groups (WWF/TNC/CI) are doing a great job establishing marine reserves/parks/areas. But the sad fact is there needs to be the ability to police the areas and also educate the local population (indeed find them some other way that they can support themselves and families).

I ran a live-aboard out for 6 years and the biggest complaint was where are the sharks / pelagic schools - in reality yes there are some places where you can see these but not in the quantities that a lot of people are expecting. Indonesia is one of the best places in the world to dive (as in PNG - had 12 years there also) but you need to set you expectations to the right level.

When running out of Raja Empat the only people who did not enjoy the trips on vessel that I was running where those belived that all the dive sites where going to be lime Batu Burung aka Melissas Garden, Cape Kri (the buttons) - In reality each dive site no matter where it is is special in its own rigt and some people like it and some do not - thats life

 

[silent running]

Hi there Silent running,

glad you had a great trip to some point I agree, however, what needs to be realized is that shark fishing/finning is still very much prominent here in Indonesia. And there just are not a lot of sharks around (yes there some but not a lot)

Some conversation groups (WWF/TNC/CI) are doing a great job establishing marine reserves/parks/areas. But the sad fact is there needs to be the ability to police the areas and also educate the local population (indeed find them some other way that they can support themselves and families).

I ran a live-aboard out for 6 years and the biggest complaint was where are the sharks / pelagic schools - in reality yes there are some places where you can see these but not in the quantities that a lot of people are expecting. Indonesia is one of the best places in the world to dive (as in PNG - had 12 years there also) but you need to set you expectations to the right level.

When running out of Raja Empat the only people who did not enjoy the trips on vessel that I was running where those belived that all the dive sites where going to be lime Batu Burung aka Melissas Garden, Cape Kri (the buttons) - In reality each dive site no matter where it is is special in its own rigt and some people like it and some do not - thats life

Hi Wayan, thanks for the detailed reply. I don't doubt what you're saying about the big life in Indo at all. It's what stopped me from going there for so long. It's so sh*** about the shark finning, really just awful and for what? Nothing but a myth, one which is made all the more ridiculous by the advent of viagra...

But as I said, the bigh stuff is there, just harder to find and hopefully on the rebound. I had good experiences on all 3 recent trips, all on CCR, which certainly helps

People have also started to complain about a scarcity of big stuff in PNG, though not quite as often. I've been there 4 times and seen even more big stuff there than Indo. So I wonder how much the number of people complaining has to do with the increasing number of divers visiting both places?

 

[Wayan]

Hi Wayan, thanks for the detailed reply. I don't doubt what you're saying about the big life in Indo at all. It's what stopped me from going there for so long. It's so sh*** about the shark finning, really just awful and for what? Nothing but a myth, one which is made all the more ridiculous by the advent of viagra...

But as I said, the bigh stuff is there, just harder to find and hopefully on the rebound. I had good experiences on all 3 recent trips, all on CCR, which certainly helps

People have also started to complain about a scarcity of big stuff in PNG, though not quite as often. I've been there 4 times and seen even more big stuff there than Indo. So I wonder how much the number of people complaining has to do with the increasing number of divers visiting both places?

Hi again silent running,

yes have to agree, they way you dive /how you dive and where (including education of what to look for) has so much to do with what you see

And also agree with the number of people as well, I remember having a detailed chat with Max Benjamin (Walindi Resort) saying that in the good ole days that there was great shark action of Christines Reef but unfortunately no more. I think that initially they are curious about the strange interlopers into their environment but then learn to hate the noise and stay away so yeah a CCR has it's benefits. But was as humans also have a lot to do with the decimation of the species and it is a crying shame.

 

[Travelnsj]

Hi Scott, I did that trip in Aug (2005) which is right at the end of the season (they actually close the resort at the end of Aug) and there was not much in the way of big stuff. I just checked my logbook and I saw a solo hammerhead out in the blue on one dive but that was it. Only other 'big' stuff was some dogtooth tuna, a couple of grey reefs, whitetips and a few turtles.

April is the heart of the hammerhead 'season' but don't expect schools of them and they are often down deep in 60m, so getting close enough to get a decent photo is quite often difficult. The dive routine at Layang is:

8.00am - max depth 40m. Once the group hits 40m they usually swim off the reef into the blue until you can't see the reef anymore. Hang out in the blue for 5 mins and see what comes along. This is usually the best chance of seeing hammers and the two best sites are either end of the atoll - The Point and Valley.

11.00am - max 30m

3.00pm - max 20m

They are strict on the depth limits and if you exceed 40m they will make you skip the next dive the first time you do it and thenm ban you if you do it again. Having said that 40m is usually deep enough for most people.

It's the ocean so there are no guarantees so you should go there with the view that if you see a few hammers it's a plus. The previous time I went to Layang in 1999 it was in June and we saw hammers on about 6 dives but only got reasonably close to one once. The diving in Layang is excellent - usually great vis, no more than 10 mins to most sites, slick dive operation and nice accommodation. With or without the hammers it is still very good.

Lee

Lee.....being they have only 80 tanks...I dive Suunto computers (they like deco) and I am an airhog....40m??....I probably will not hang out very long.....well the diving does not sound like Palau and trip will cost almost twice as much Palau...I hope there will something I enjoy....I have never seen a Hammerhead in Palau but they were seeing them before I arrived in March as the water had been a bit cool...when I first arrived for the first few days waters were 79 to 81...burr....After 4 days it got up into the normal 82 to 83.

 

[Travelnsj]

Hi again silent running,

yes have to agree, they way you dive /how you dive and where (including education of what to look for) has so much to do with what you see

And also agree with the number of people as well, I remember having a detailed chat with Max Benjamin (Walindi Resort) saying that in the good ole days that there was great shark action of Christines Reef but unfortunately no more. I think that initially they are curious about the strange interlopers into their environment but then learn to hate the noise and stay away so yeah a CCR has it's benefits. But was as humans also have a lot to do with the decimation of the species and it is a crying shame.

Wayan....I am headed to the Sorido Resort in December...will I see much?

 

[Wayan]

Wayan....I am headed to the Sorido Resort in December...will I see much?

Hey there Travelnsj, You should have great time - new resort (only opened for a couple of years) plus you will be right next to Cape Kri - which is an absolutely brilliant dive. This is the site where Gerry Allen counted the most no of species of fish in a single dive. Had some other ichthyologists with me since this and the said that Gerry was particularly bad a recognizing/finding certain species - these they found on the same dive site. But you need to really know your fish to see the difference (a gazillion types of wrasse you know). Anyway with the current running the right way a zillion fish with a few sharks (maybe) one of my favorites - do not know of too many people who have not enjoyed this dive. Another favorite in the Area is Sardine Reef - it is great to be able to get down of the point and rest in 80-90 feet if water (on the sand) and watch the fish swirl around you; great to let them come to you and check you rather than like most divers chase things all over the ocean. There are a couple of Manta spots around but trust Max and his boys they will know if they are there or not.
A number of dives around as well which a re great Mikes Point as well. So yes you should see a lot of stuff ranging from big to the macro (pygmy's etc.....)

Lets us all know how it went after you are back

 

[Travelnsj]

Hey there Travelnsj, You should have great time - new resort (only opened for a couple of years) plus you will be right next to Cape Kri - which is an absolutely brilliant dive. This is the site where Gerry Allen counted the most no of species of fish in a single dive. Had some other ichthyologists with me since this and the said that Gerry was particularly bad a recognizing/finding certain species - these they found on the same dive site. But you need to really know your fish to see the difference (a gazillion types of wrasse you know). Anyway with the current running the right way a zillion fish with a few sharks (maybe) one of my favorites - do not know of too many people who have not enjoyed this dive. Another favorite in the Area is Sardine Reef - it is great to be able to get down of the point and rest in 80-90 feet if water (on the sand) and watch the fish swirl around you; great to let them come to you and check you rather than like most divers chase things all over the ocean. There are a couple of Manta spots around but trust Max and his boys they will know if they are there or not.
A number of dives around as well which a re great Mikes Point as well. So yes you should see a lot of stuff ranging from big to the macro (pygmy's etc.....)

Lets us all know how it went after you are back

Wayan,

Thanks so much for the heads up.....I have heard mixed reports on the diving.....I am a Palau Diver and compare much of the diving I do against Palau. Not many compare! I was just in Wakatobi great operation but the vis was only about 10 meters and unless you are into Pigmy Seahorses and Nudi's...diving was pretty boring. So far the finest diving I have done in Indonesia area is East Timor and Bali.

What will be the water Temps in late December be in Lembeh and Raja?...I have heard about 28c?

Thanks again for the info.....Scott