Pee valve woes

[aquaregia]

I did a search but it seems that these issues are deeply personal... I really would rather not be posting this

I recently attempted to "plumb up". It didn't go well. A few questions:

1. How long ought the tubing be? I suspect mine was a bit short as it seemed to be causing some kinking where the tube met the cath.

2. I found my...self... somewhat reluctant to being shoved in. I read the TDS "how-to" but it didn't seem to help. It was one of the strangest experiences that part of my body has had post-15yo; thank goodness this time I was alone. Are there any additional *cough* tips that I might not have come across?

3. I couldn't tell if I'd sized too large or too small (or just right). I was of course using XLs*. Are there telltale signs?


* totally mediums

 

[JKPAO]

It depends on "your plumbing". The tubing I use is 5/16" OD with a 3/16"ID made by Naglene. I only need 1 1/2" of tubing (TMI) with the barb inserted. I can keep "my plumbing" straight or without kinks, if you know what I mean. I do run a cath that is on the tight side as to prevent blow-off. Quite a pain to get on but it gives me a peice of mind. I have had kinks and blow-offs, and this was my fix. Sizing and lengths may vary!!!!!!!!
See you topside! John

 

[stairman]

Most guys think they need the extra large when they dont. You have to factor in the SHRINKAGE affect.

 

[spectrum]

I have kept this as technical as possible but it may be TMI for some

#1 Tubing length... Whatever works for you depending on your preferred orientation and valve location. be sure the reservoir of the condom is not twisted and that bends are sweeping. You may or may not choose to use a quick disconnect fitting and you may use an automatic shut-off, especially on the valve side.

2. I assume this drama has to do with actually donning the condom. There shouldn't be any shoving based on my experience with Rochester Wide Bands. I was surprised to find the adhesive makes it's first contact on the tip. Aim carefully so you don't glue yourself shut!:shocked2: Then hold the tip of the tip just firmly enough to elongate your penis so it is smooth and roll the condom down the length. Roll it between palms a few times to marry the adhesive. Shaving the penis and some surrounding hair will make it all easy.

#3 sizing.. Did you start with the Rochester Wide Band sample pack? It comes with a size gauge. Check for size when flaccid and don't flatter yourself. It wants to roll on without wrinkles for a good seal. Ideally you put it on when clean ad dry to avoid excess body oils. If you have worked up perspiration then poor adhesion and a blow-out is very possible. The silicone has plenty of elasticity to deal with any excitement.

As for removal, don't do it immediately, even if it's a test fit. After several hours body oils and heat will make the adhesive a little more forgiving and removal is a lot easier.

Once you sort it out it will be worth the effort. Being able to hydrate at will is a huge advantage, especially when making multiple dry dives. Be sure to clean the system after each use to avoid infection.

Pete

 

[Aqua-Andy]

I have kept this as technical as possible but it may be TMI for some

#1 Tubing length... Whatever works for you depending on your preferred orientation and valve location. be sure the reservoir of the condom is not twisted and that bends are sweeping. You may or may not choose to use a quick disconnect fitting and you may use an automatic shut-off, especially on the valve side.

2. I assume this drama has to do with actually donning the condom. There shouldn't be any shoving based on my experience with Rochester Wide Bands. I was surprised to find the adhesive makes it's first contact on the tip. Aim carefully so you don't glue yourself shut!:shocked2: Then hold the tip of the tip just firmly enough to elongate your penis so it is smooth and roll the condom down the length. Roll it between palms a few times to marry the adhesive. Shaving the penis and some surrounding hair will make it all easy.

#3 sizing.. Did you start with the Rochester Wide Band sample pack? It comes with a size gauge. Check for size when flaccid and don't flatter yourself. It wants to roll on without wrinkles for a good seal. Ideally you put it on when clean ad dry to avoid excess body oils. If you have worked up perspiration then poor adhesion and a blow-out is very possible. The silicone has plenty of elasticity to deal with any excitement.

As for removal, don't do it immediately, even if it's a test fit. After several hours body oils and heat will make the adhesive a little more forgiving and removal is a lot easier.

Once you sort it out it will be worth the effort. Being able to hydrate at will is a huge advantage, especially when making multiple dry dives. Be sure to clean the system after each use to avoid infection.

Pete

Wow excellent write up, I wish all this info was in one place when I first started experimenting with my P-valve.

I think the only things I would add would be,

1 I cut off about half the length of the connection end of the cath off to avoid the possibility of a kink there, which can and does happen.

2 To remove the cath I use some baby oil to loosen up the adhesive, works great and virtually no pain at all.

 

[Peter_C]

I too cut the tip of the cath off (Why else do we carry shears in our drysuit pockets?). Also my hose is *guessing* somewhere around 18". It goes in a loop from my thigh, up in an arch to my belly then back down to the cath connection, facing down when installed.

 

[Aqua-Andy]

It goes in a loop from my thigh, up in an arch to my belly then back down to the cath connection, facing down when installed.

I do the same thing except I use some bungee to hold the tube in a "U". Without the bungee it wants to straighten out and possibly kink. I use a Halcyon valve with the Norprene tubing and it wants to be straight.

 

[aquaregia]

Thanks for all the replies. The "XL" was a joke, of course. I just used a generic medium I stole from a nurse. I'll see if I can find the Rochester sample pack.

 

[Camerone]

I do the same thing except I use some bungee to hold the tube in a "U". Without the bungee it wants to straighten out and possibly kink. I use a Halcyon valve with the Norprene tubing and it wants to be straight.

No need to bungee. Just tuck the hose through the suspenders; there's usually a loop of elastic where the suspender adjustment thingamajigs connect to the suit, and I just loop the norprene tubing up through the suspender loop and back down.

Three points that I find helpful:

1. Like the others said, cut half the "nipple" off the cath...keeps the connector end basically in the main body of the cath, which means there's no way to kink it. Also - use the Rochester Widebands. The adhesive is over the entire insides, meaning there's little likelihood of blowout or failure.
2. Route your "plumbing" up, and loop the hose gently up and down. This position is least likely to give you a kink in the line. Otherwise, the crotch strap from the backplate/BC can wreck havoc on the hose or your, um, equipment.
3. Use norprene tubing. If your valve manufacturer was a cheap b*****d and sold it to you with other stuff, throw it away and order norprene hose from McMaster-Carr McMaster-Carr. Lasts forever, is highly chemical resistant, and most importantly, virtually impossible to kink. This is Halcyon's default tubing, but I've seen some lousy vinyl hoses with some kits, and I'll never understand it. While you're there, order the quick-connect and quick-disconnect (do a search here for the part numbers.) Then you can put the cath on at home, in the morning, and discretely "snap" in while kitting up. Makes it less likely to be guilty of indecent exposure at the dive site

Finally - don't forget to keep your hose and valve _clean_. I rinse with isopropyl alcohol and white vinegar after the dive day, and then clean, clear water afterwards. The last thing you want is nastys growing in your line.

Oh yeah - don't forget to disconnect before taking off the suit to avoid embarrassing moments. Don't ask about this one