Panama and Guatemala

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JohnnyC

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I'm a Fish!
Work is taking me to Central America after the new year, hitting Panama, Costa Rica, and Guatemala. Costa Rica is sorted, got my shop and friends there etc., but I know nothing about diving Panama or Guatemala.

Any recommendations for either country? I'll be in Panama City, and Guatemala City, but will have time to travel.

Debating traveling with a rebreather, any shops with rebreather support in either of them?
 
We dove Contadora island...a two hr ferry ride from PC...neat little island and a nice get away...I'd suggest that if your on the Pacific side..this island is where the very first Survivor was filmed....so I'm told.
 
@JohnnyC - As for Guatemala- your best option would be to travel to Lake Atitlan and do some diving in the lake. Otherwise, Guatemala is not really a dive destination. It is however an awesome country and going to Lake Atitlan is worth doing, even if you don't dive. I lived there for 7 years and my eldest son was born there.
Take into account that the lake sits at around 5,000 feet. Feel free to ping me if you want any other info on Guatemala. Lots of cool things to do and see. Be sure to get over to Antigua- only 45-60 minute drive from Guatemala City.
ATi DiVERS
Scuba diving in Guatemala | Diviac
 
The best diving in Panama is Isla Coiba. It will take a day to get there from Panama City, but it's well worth it. January and February are when you can usually see whale sharks and mobula in the area. You'll also see lots of reef sharks (black and white tipped), turtles, large frogfish, a variety of moray eels and huge schools of jacks and barracuda. The main operators there are Scuba Coiba and Coiba Dive Center.

Isla Coiba was a penal colony for many years, and was not a safe place to visit until 2002 when the penitentiary was closed and it became a national park and marine preserve. It's still very pristine, and has a number of animal species that are only found on the island, such as a white-faced howler monkey. Staying over night there has been very basic, in a few dormitory cabins at the ranger station with electricity supplied only at night. ANAM, the park service, is currently renovating the cabins, so the dive ops are lodging their guests nearby.

Other diving options in Panama are Bocas del Toro and Portobelo. Both are on the Caribbean. This time of year, diving is fairly shallow -- max depth around 60 ft. -- and mainly in the 15' to 40' range in Bocas del Toro and 30' to 60' in Portobelo. Both have limited visibility most of the time. 40' ' 50' is considered a good day. Bocas had more species of coral than anywhere else in the Caribbean, but the shallower corals have been severely affected by warming water and tourists who think it's good to stand on when snorkeling, or break some off and take it home. Bocas has more than 20 dive sites. La Buga is probably the best dive shop there.

Portobelo is the closest dive location to Panama City. You can drive there from the city in about 90 minutes. I haven't dived with them, but two of my Panamanian friends have, and they get great reviews on TA. I would avoid Scubapanama and Panama Divers. They tend to nickel-dime you to death. They start with a very high two-tank dive rate of $130 and then add on a rental fee for each tank and two additional fees for the boat skipper and the DM that are split among the divers on the boat. If you're the only diver, you pay it all. Portobelo usually has only four dive sites for most of the year. That more than doubles between September and November when the seas are calm enough to allow diving on the barrier reef. (The same is true for Bocas del Toro.) That's when diving is really good on the Caribbean side. You see larger animals, more dramatic coral formations and deeper dives.

I don't know of any dive shop in Panama that supports either rebreathers or tech diving. There are only a couple that offer EAN.
 
I'll second @gb_williams comments. I have not dived Coiba, but it is supposed to be THE place in Panama. On the Caribbean side, I always dive with Golden Frog Scuba and Panama Dive Adventure in Portobelo. They are separate shops but work together. Both owners are really great guys and they don't nickel and dime you to death. I did a tec dive with them this past summer and really enjoyed it. We hit a little over 130' at the bottom of a mini wall and finished up deco-ing out on top of the reef on 50%. Total dive time was around 75 minutes. The deco while watching a coral reef was a nice change from hanging in open water. They were able to supply me with a set of double steel 100s with DIN valves and could mix pretty much any nitrox gas you want. Even the recreational dives were nice easy dives for about an hour. The reefs are not as nice as some other Caribbean locations, but we still saw lots of fish. One thing I do enjoy about Portobelo is the changing topography. On many dives you can do a mini wall, see a coral reef, and then coral encrusted boulder fields. It's a little different than I've seen in other places.

If you don't want to drive from Panama City, the owner of Golden Frog (Rey Sanchez) will come get you. Although I drive in Panama a lot, prefer not to make the drive up to Portobelo.

I've been working in Panama for 15 years, so feel free to PM me if you have additional questions.
 
Oh yeah, I'm not sure if Panama Dive Adventure supports rebreathers, but the owner (Alvaro Sucre) is a pretty avid tech diver, so send them an email and see what they say.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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