One Year in Bali

[Luko]

I have dived both the Andaman Islands and the Similan islands on liveaboards - and both are highly recommended and well worth splashing out the $$$. Similan islands are however a lot more crowded, but better value.

I also dived Sipadan last year and it really is a bucket list, despite its popularity and considered risks - I stayed at Borneo Divers on Mabul. My report is here, including the numbers of permits and how they are divided amongst the resorts - Fish soup for breakfast – sampling Sipadans’ diving feast | Bags of Adventure

In fact Andaman islands are better dived from Havelock resorts not from live aboards, due to the fact most of the GPS sites are discovered and known from local resorts who dive there all year every day except in monsoon. Live aboards are not that frequent in that area and do not exactly know where to dive and when, (this is exactly the same case with Alor in Indonesia, much better dived with local resorts who will take you to uncharted sites from the live aboards).

Read your nice report on Sipadan and was happy to see Amine and Eljer are still there.
I was desesperate when 2 months ago I lost my faithful muck stick, which was a gift from Amine 5 years ago.

 

[srt1548]

In fact Andaman islands are better dived from Havelock resorts not from live aboards, due to the fact most of the GPS sites are discovered and known from local resorts who dive there all year every day except in monsoon. Live aboards are not that frequent in that area and do not exactly know where to dive and when, (this is exactly the same case with Alor in Indonesia, much better dived with local resorts who will take you to uncharted sites from the live aboards).

Read your nice report on Sipadan and was happy to see Amine and Eljer are still there.
I was desesperate when 2 months ago I lost my faithful muck stick

Thank you very much for your comments on my Sipadan report. Sorry about your stick.

With regard to Andaman Islands liveaboards, they only run Jan - March and there is now one boat permenanly at Port Blair - the Infiniti. Around Havelock Islands are some nice sites for sure. The best sites in the Andaman Islands however are out at Barren Island (still a live volcano) and Narcondom. Both are only accessible via liveaboard and I will go back one day - it is true unspoiled diving. Only one site dived was unchartered. Another site we surfaced and about 50 small mantas surrounded us. It was awesome. You only get that sort of experience out in the wildest corners. And Andaman Islands has plenty.

 

[billt4sf]

Hi again,

That said if you're going to travel extensively through out Asia, I would also recommend lesser known Andaman islands (India), not to be confused with the Similan islands in the Andaman sea that belong to Thailand.You need to go through Chennai India (and btw do not miss 2 weeks land touring south India, Mamallapuram, Madurai, Trichy.... this is really something !!!) fly to Port Blair an take a 3hrs ferry to Havelock, an island which has some of the most magical beaches in the world(Radhanagar, beach #7) along with tasty curries of giant crabs, the size of a small table and most if all good remote diving with PLENTY of fish (sweetlips, snappers, cudas, jackfish, sometimes manta rays).
Dive India, for diving and lodging in comfortable safari tents, gets my vote.

WOW, Luko this is incredibly GREAT information! I was in North India for a few months back in the day, and I always promised myself I'd go back to see South India, now I have a diving "excuse" as well! Fantastic.

These are the "Andaman and Nicobar Islands" in the Bay of Bengal, yes?

One question though -- when you were in India did you get sick? Traveler's diarrhea used to be totally common in India, not sure of that has changed.

Bali is looking more and more like a great place to be to use as a base for our SE Asia / That Part of the World Tour.

More questions later as I process! Thanks again!!

- Bill

---------- Post added June 30th, 2015 at 04:20 PM ----------

If you like muck diving, as well as Lembeh Straits, go to Ambon. Raja Ampat is vast and there are two distinct areas to explore - North for the big stuff, and South for macro -

Muck diving -- haven't done that yet. (Macro is a synonym for muck diving I assume?) Sounds to me like one could expect looking for very small, VERY unusual things. My guess would be that would be of interest to us -- but likely not a passion. We are not that big on photography. I don't want to pre-judge it, though. I bet there are a thousand threads on SB on the positives and negatives of muck diving. We will definitely do some!

I also dived Sipadan last year and it really is a bucket list, despite its popularity and considered risks - I stayed at Borneo Divers on Mabul. My report is here, including the numbers of permits and how they are divided amongst the resorts - Fish soup for breakfast – sampling Sipadans’ diving feast | Bags of Adventure

The link is GREAT. I see that you have a whole website there of various links on travel and dive travel. I only looked at the Sipadan one, and sure was helpful. I like when people put in their pics, not just all the amazing critters, but also basic things like pics of the rooms, the dive center, etc. -- gives you a real sense of the place! Will be checking out more of those.

The "considered risks" -- meaning you might or might not get as many permits as you might like for your stay?

I dug your comment about the Spotted Oriental Sweet Pair -- great comment there at the end!!

Should be an amazing year!

Now I am thinking it should be two!! 10?

 

[srt1548]

Muck diving -- haven't done that yet. (Macro is a synonym for muck diving I assume?) Sounds to me like one could expect looking for very small, VERY unusual things. My guess would be that would be of interest to us -- but likely not a passion. We are not that big on photography. I don't want to pre-judge it, though. I bet there are a thousand threads on SB on the positives and negatives of muck diving. We will definitely do some!





The link is GREAT. I see that you have a whole website there of various links on travel and dive travel. I only looked at the Sipadan one, and sure was helpful. I like when people put in their pics, not just all the amazing critters, but also basic things like pics of the rooms, the dive center, etc. -- gives you a real sense of the place! Will be checking out more of those.

The "considered risks" -- meaning you might or might not get as many permits as you might like for your stay?

I dug your comment about the Spotted Oriental Sweet Pair -- great comment there at the end!!




Now I am thinking it should be two!! 10?

thanks for your comments. Muck diving is diving in the sand or areas that are generally not so pretty but provide a habitat for some of the lesser seen species. Many dismiss muck diving as it isn't so pretty as reefs etc, but you can see some incredible marine life. I have blogged about muck diving too! Muck diving marvels | Bags of Adventure

Macro is is for smaller fish and critters that tend to inhabit reefs.

considered risks is a reference to the local political situation. For me it's no biggie but there has been some kidnappings of tourists in the area. There was one the month before I went, and another attempted one a month later. Mabul and Sipadan has a permenant and suitable police presence.

 

[Luko]

I was in North India for a few months back in the day, and I always promised myself I'd go back to see South India, now I have a diving "excuse" as well! Fantastic.

These are the "Andaman and Nicobar Islands" in the Bay of Bengal, yes?

One question though -- when you were in India did you get sick? Traveler's diarrhea used to be totally common in India, not sure of that has changed.

I used to go in India in the mid/late 2000's, never got the Delhi belly (worst case for me was in Nepal), northern India is probably more prone to to the richer/greasier food diet, I find southern India "cleaner" in that respect, the food is healthier as they're often serving only vegan thalis (although I am not usually).
North and South are completely different cultures, like a different country, in a way I find southern India more relaxed, there's less tension maybe because there's only a dominant religion, not two opposed. While you are impressed with North Moghul culture and architecture in the northern part, a real treat for the eyes, you feel it's a travel in time, like stepping thousands of years behind in South India once you are inside those gigantic hindu temples (Trichy or Madurai); it's a real experience.

Muck diving -- haven't done that yet. (Macro is a synonym for muck diving I assume?) Sounds to me like one could expect looking for very small, VERY unusual things. My guess would be that would be of interest to us -- but likely not a passion. We are not that big on photography. I don't want to pre-judge it, though. I bet there are a thousand threads on SB on the positives and negatives of muck diving. We will definitely do some

Muck is finding macro in anything not much "corally" : black sand, rubble, often in a harbor or Under structures where all kind of manmade trash lies on the bottom. There are so many creepy crawly living things there : mostly octopii, crustacea, nudibranches, and weird fish like seahorses, frogfish, ghost pipefish, various scorpionfish like the beautiful rhinopias, etc. If you look in my photo galleries (cliick in my signature on flickr gellaries) there are some thematics like cephalopods, shrimps & crabs, frogfish, seahores and pipefish that ar erelated to muck diving mostly.
Muck diving is much fun like finding easter eggs, but you will need a good guide to show you the critters you wouldn't see by yourself.
Muck is an Indo Pacific specialty due to the incredible biodiversity, it was invented in PNG (Milne bay) but widespread in Indonesia, the better places for muck are for Indonesia : Lembeh & Bangka, Ambon, Bali (Tulamben, Padang Bai), Alor, in the Philippines Anilao and Dauin, especially the first one, are good too.

 

[billt4sf]

considered risks is a reference to the local political situation. For me it's no biggie but there has been some kidnappings of tourists in the area. There was one the month before I went, and another attempted one a month later. Mabul and Sipadan has a permanent and suitable police presence.

Thanks for that. I did a simple Google search and saw more than I wanted to. We will probably avoid the area, my wife (a Filipina) is especially conservative on such issues, and I am, too. There are many things that we love to do in life -- diving is one of them. There are many places that we love to dive -- Mabul / Sipadan would be one of them but maybe not.

The list is quite long even without Sipadan!

- Bill

---------- Post added July 1st, 2015 at 11:31 AM ----------

So I am making a basic spreadsheet of all the info you guys have so generously provided, and I want to fill in a "few more" cells.

I want to make sure I know WHERE these places are (some are not that easy to find!) and WHEN are the good times of year to dive there, and how (LOB or by land), and if significant CURRENTS are typical.

If you guys are willing to add to what I have gotten so far from this (and other) threads, that would be great. I could make the spreadsheet generally available but I am not sure how to do that.

Anyway here are my questions for those sites that I am still researching:

Lambeh - off the coast of NE Sulawesi? Which months are good?

Raja Ampat - off the west coast of West Papua? When?

Komodo - when?

N. Sulawesi Bangka Is. - when? Currents?

Ambon - when? Currents?

Wakatobi - when? Currents? LOB or land?

Alor - when? LOB or land?

Andaman & Nicobar Is - LOB or Land? Currents?

Layang Layang (Spratleys) - LOB or land? Currents? When?

Similan Is - LOB or Land? Currents? When?


This is a lot to ask for but I do seem to have found people that (1) know the areas, (2) aren't trying to push a particular agenda other than what they like, and (3) I hope are still willing to provide info.

THANK YOU!!! :yelclap:

- Bill

 

[Luko]

So I am making a basic spreadsheet of all the info you guys have so generously provided, and I want to fill in a "few more" cells.

I want to make sure I know WHERE these places are (some are not that easy to find!) and WHEN are the good times of year to dive there, and how (LOB or by land), and if significant CURRENTS are typical.

If you guys are willing to add to what I have gotten so far from this (and other) threads, that would be great. I could make the spreadsheet generally available but I am not sure how to do that.

Anyway here are my questions for those sites that I am still researching:

This is a lot to ask for but I do seem to have found people that (1) know the areas, (2) aren't trying to push a particular agenda other than what they like, and (3) I hope are still willing to provide info.

THANK YOU!!! :yelclap:

- Bill

Lambeh -
off the coast of NE Sulawesi? yes airport is MANADO
Which months are good? All year round but better March to June then September to november.

Raja Ampat -
off the west coast of West Papua? Arport is SORONG
When? Better from Feb to may

Komodo - when? Better April to june then october-november

N. Sulawesi Bangka Is. -
when? Same as Lembeh, but not that good from december to early march., winds in july-august that bring waves
Currents? yes but very manageable, not Komodo like.

Ambon - when? October to may better in oct-november then feb to may.
Currents? Can be, but there's always a sheltered place.

Wakatobi - I pass for this one.
when? Currents? LOB or land?

Alor -
when? From april to early december, best is September to november
LOB or land? ABOSUTELY land resort, VERY dependant from the tides and the moon, currents can be raging, the land based resorts know the spots better. And only one of the resorts can get you to hammerheads (50 last year)

Andaman & Nicobar Is - better Jan-April
LOB or Land? Personally I would say Land
Currents? most are pinnacles in the open sea, so ther is current depending on the tide.

Layang Layang (Spratleys) -
LOB or land? Only one operation land based (but in fact it's like a liveaboard)
Currents?
When? Hammerhead in April-May, can be deep.

Similan Is -
LOB or Land? LOB
Currents? sometimes but not raging
When? November to April

 

[billt4sf]

Komodo, Flores
Raja Ampat
Wakatobi
Gili Ialands, Lombok
Papua New Guinea
Andaman Sea, Thailand

From my initial list of six possible sites, we now have a list of 10 land-based sites and 3 live-Aboard recommendations:

LAND-BASED:

Gili Islands, Lombok
Lembeh
N Sulawesi Bangka Is
NE Sulawesi Bunaken Is
Sipadan / Mabul
Wakatobi
Ambon
Alor
Andaman & Nikobar Ialands
Layang Layang (in Spratleys)


BEST DONE on LIVEABOARD:
Raja Ampat
Komodo
Similan Islands


It will take some time to sort through all this! It should be a GREAT year!

Thank you, all!

- Bill & Emily

P,S. I now have a working spreadsheet on these sites. Is there any useful way to make it available to more people?

 

[Luko]

Raja Ampat is good on a LOB if you're coupling north and south but if you want to stay in the Dampier straits, Resort diving is excellent too, often less expensive as well.
To be honest I would even care for the Gili islands
Bunaken, Bangka and Lembeh can be done on ONE stay hopping from resort to resor, some of the operations have resorts in two or all three locations. (Murex for instance)

 

[billt4sf]

To be honest I would even care for the Gili islands

I think you mean "would NOT" care for the Lombok Gilis?

We'll be living in Bali, so I kind of figure why not?

- Bill