Olympus C5050, PT-015 Strobe Dellemma!

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Scuba307

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Near Chicago
I am new to underwater photography.

I already started to upgrade from an Olympus stylus 400, PT-016, Epoque ES-150 DS strobe, Fiber optic sync, Epoque tray, and long flex arm. I used the rig a couple of times and was ready to move on. I just purchased an Olympus C5050 and a PT-015 Housing and I want to do it right this time, and I could really use your insight and experience. I would like to end up with a versatile rig that can work well on macro shots, super macro as well as wide angle reef, wreck and diver shots. Ok, ok, I want it all.

I am looking to add a strobe. I have been leaning toward the Ikelite DS-125. I base this on its long battery life, modeling light, (that may also be bright enough to be used as a primary dive light for night diving, or is that a pipe dream???), as well as it’s ample light output, large pattern and warmth. The questions start when it comes to the controller. Would I be better off with the TTL controller or the manual controller? Does the TTL controller really work? What are the drawbacks?

I was also considering the INON D-180 due to an article on “Choosing and Using Underwater Strobes with Digital Cameras”, by Jeff Ferris http://www.digitaldiver.net/images/strobearticle/strobearticlescrn2.pdf along with reading message boards. My concern is the low light output as compared to other strobes. Does the D-180 put out enough to effectively cover WAL shots?

I am also considering the INON UWL-100 type 2 lens, INON UCL-330 lens, along with a tray and arms that will work best with the strobe that I decide on. Open for suggestions across the board.

Thanks!!!
:06:
 
Scuba307:
I am new to underwater photography.

I already started to upgrade from an Olympus stylus 400, PT-016, Epoque ES-150 DS strobe, Fiber optic sync, Epoque tray, and long flex arm. I used the rig a couple of times and was ready to move on. I just purchased an Olympus C5050 and a PT-015 Housing and I want to do it right this time, and I could really use your insight and experience. I would like to end up with a versatile rig that can work well on macro shots, super macro as well as wide angle reef, wreck and diver shots. Ok, ok, I want it all.

I am looking to add a strobe. I have been leaning toward the Ikelite DS-125. I base this on its long battery life, modeling light, (that may also be bright enough to be used as a primary dive light for night diving, or is that a pipe dream???), as well as it’s ample light output, large pattern and warmth. The questions start when it comes to the controller. Would I be better off with the TTL controller or the manual controller? Does the TTL controller really work? What are the drawbacks?

I was also considering the INON D-180 due to an article on “Choosing and Using Underwater Strobes with Digital Cameras”, by Jeff Ferris http://www.digitaldiver.net/images/strobearticle/strobearticlescrn2.pdf along with reading message boards. My concern is the low light output as compared to other strobes. Does the D-180 put out enough to effectively cover WAL shots?

I am also considering the INON UWL-100 type 2 lens, INON UCL-330 lens, along with a tray and arms that will work best with the strobe that I decide on. Open for suggestions across the board.

Thanks!!!
:06:

Compact, simple to use, and it really works.

Enough light for a WAL? No single strobe will light up a murky ocean to give you "enough light" for a mega WAL - but it will serve your other purposes very well.

Hang out - lots of us own them with the 5050. Check out our Oly room. If you're in So Cal, join our Oly users group - we'll be meeting again in May. Someone here with a D180 will chime in so I won't hog the mic.

K
 
Mo2vation:
Compact, simple to use, and it really works.

Enough light for a WAL? No single strobe will light up a murky ocean to give you "enough light" for a mega WAL - but it will serve your other purposes very well.

Hang out - lots of us own them with the 5050. Check out our Oly room. If you're in So Cal, join our Oly users group - we'll be meeting again in May. Someone here with a D180 will chime in so I won't hog the mic.

K


Thanks for the quick reply!

M
 
I just got back from a trip using the D-180 with a WA lens. Both have 100º of coverage but you have to be spot on the cover EXACTLY the whole lens. For that you really need 2 strobes, but for a single strobe the D-180 does a jam up job. I'm pleased with my results.

Here's one example.....

aac.sized.jpg
 
Dee:
I just got back from a trip using the D-180 with a WA lens. Both have 100º of coverage but you have to be spot on the cover EXACTLY the whole lens. For that you really need 2 strobes, but for a single strobe the D-180 does a jam up job. I'm pleased with my results.

Here's one example.....

aac.sized.jpg

Thanks for the input and the great pix. What WAL did you use?

M
 
Scuba307:
Thanks for the input and the great pix. What WAL did you use?

M

I use a Sea & Sea 'L' WA lens. One the C-5050, it give just a hint of vignetting in the corners on the left side but not on the right. I just bump the zoom in just a tad and it eliminates it.
 
If you decide on Inon, I have a D-180, Ultralight tray and arms, optical cable, all original parts/accessories - everything needed for operation with a PT-015 - for sale. In perfect condition, only 11 dives (deepest 103ft). Had great results, esp. on night dive. Only reason I'm selling is that my PT-015 is "dead" and I'm trying to finance an Ikelite C5050 housing to replace it.
See classified ad at
http://www.digitaldiver.net/wantads.php?adID=75
Asking $775 for complete system - purchased in Feb for $895.
 
The TTL controller works very well for alot of situations. Where it does not work as well is on open ocean (blue water) shots and some reef panoramics. However, on these types of shots, flash doesn't do alot for you. The manual controller will give you more creative control. Most of my pictures have been with the TTL controller. Most of them are macro and fish/coral portraits. For these the TTL works perfectly. I love my DS-125.
 
DanL,

I'm getting ready to pull the trigger on a housing, strobe and other accessories for the C5050 myself.

Can you give me some details on your "dead PT-015". I've got it down to the Ikelite and the PT-015 and I'm leaning toward the PT-015 for price reasons.

Was your situation due to pilot error or did the unit fail?

Do you have any recommendations or insight you could share?

I'm going to post a seperate thread with several questions about my up comming purchases but your input would be appreciated.
 
I have the c5050/PT-015 with a single Ikelite DS-125 strobe and manual controller. I started with the TTL controller and have moved on to the manual as I like the finer control.

The DS-125 is a great strobe, in part due to the modeling light. Yes, it can serve as your primary for night dives. And, the modeling light helps the camera achieve focus in low light situations.

I love this rig. If you click on the links below my signature, you will find a bunch of pictures that I took in Cozumel.

camera600.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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