Oly E-620 or Pany GF-1 or Oly EPL-1 ?

[Wisnu]

Help ...please help

I receive the 10bar housing for EPL-1 - but too bad I can not use it with my Metz in 10bar housed strobe. I do not buy the Oly OEM housing as this housing does not have bulkhead connector - so I bought the 10bar housing from Opticalocean.

The sync. cord (OPM5-NKM) supplied by 10bar (not by optical ocean) as part the 10bar housing package can not be used to connect the Nikonos V connector of those housings. I also have Epoque ES-SC-OLF sync. cord for olympus housing. I can not use this sync. cord. I borrow my friend's oly sync. cord - but still can not be used. The connectors do not fit.

I asked Jack - and sent him the following pictures of the bulkhead connector on both housings.
The bulkhead on the 10bar housing for E-PL1

The bulkhead connector on the 10bar housing for Metz 58AF-1 flash for Olympus/panny camera.

He suggest to use S&S Nikonos V sync. cord.
I get it though not cheap.
Guess - I can't use it. This cable also has different ends. Only one end can be connected to either the camera housing or housed strobe.
Note - all the other three sync. cord can also be connected on one end only.

I don't know what I can do now .. next week I'll be going for dive trip to Ambon.
Thanks much for any advice and suggestion ..
I have three sync. cord that can not be used
Any DIY to modify these cable ?

 

[bvanant]

I first learned to shoot macro with a Nikon 60mm macro lens that was notorious for focus breathing (the field of view changed as you focused, especially at macro distances). With that lens, I was taught to always lock the focus with a half-press of the shutter release, then frame the picture, then take the shot. That worked pretty well for me. When I try to take macro photos relying on autofocus, as often as not I get the wrong part of the photo in focus.

For example, there's a photo in your St. Vincent section of a secretary blenny peaking out from some coral. When I try to get an image like that from just pressing the shutter release, I often end up with sharp and well focused coral, with a blurry blenny peaking out. By locking the autofocus, I can move the camera and get the blenny to be the sharpest and most well focused part of the frame.

Do you have a different technique for underwater macro? I realize that my technique might be a little dated (modern macro lenses don't focus breathe as much as my old 60mm), but I don't see many alternatives.

You are still using autofocus with manual distance control. I was comparing it to manual focus alone ie. moving the lens in and out with a focus ring. I don't see well enough for that game.
Bill