Question Older steel 72 Pitt Depth

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Clashswims

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Location
Houston
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Hello, I have 10 steel 72s and would like to know wich ones are salvageable. Some have pitting. What is acceptable or not? I’m not trying to become a self proclaimed inspector. I want to be able to cull the bad ones without going through the expense of hydro and visuals. They range from some surface rust to wow that’s bad. I’m familiar with picks to estimate pit depth. I don’t know what the depth parameters are.
Can someone recommend where I could find this information? Thanks in advance .
 
I can give you some information based on personal experience, but I’m not really a “pro” in the sense that I don’t do tank stuff for a living, only for myself.

Anyway, I have been given dozens of steel 72’s over the years and I have never had one fail hydro.
This surprises me because a few were really pitted badly, some under the boot, and some on the inside.
Some tanks I buy but most were given to me.
I joke that I run a steel 72 rescue center.
One tank I got was from 1959, it was a freebie, and it was originally painted with just oil based alkyd enamel over steel with no primer. It was so pitted under the boot that the pits looked to be 1/16” deep or deeper. The inside was pristine. So I sand blasted it, primed it, and painted it. It passed hydro no problem!?! Baffling.
I had another one that had a pretty deep pit inside that I was always paranoid about, but it continued to pass hydro. One year I inspected it and there was a little more rust forming in the pit, so I decided to condemn it instead of wire-wheeling out the rust from the pit and sending it to hydro again. It had a few years left on the previous hydro so I thought it was time to make a bell out of it. When I cut the bottom off I was stunned to see that the pit which looked like a crater from above with a light was only a small little thing not even 1/64” deep but it was kinda wide making it look a lot worse than it actually was. I was bummed knowing I just murdered a perfectly good 72 that probably had many years of life left in it.
So from that moment on I decided to clean up any 72 that came in (as long as it wasn’t epoxy lined) and send them to hydro, because you never know.
If they don’t pass hydro I don’t think they charge you, so you have nothing to lose. Even if they do charge for a failed tank, I would still take a gamble on it. Even if one out of 25 or 50 fail you’re still way ahead. Go buy a new tank and see what those cost, if you can find one.
Steel 72’s are just too precious to condemn if there is no reason to.
 
I like how these tanks feel but when surrounded by potential partners all of whom have HP100 I’m always the party pooper.
 
I like how these tanks feel but when surrounded by potential partners all of whom have HP100 I’m always the party pooper.
They make great doubles, I have 3 sets,
 
Where are the pits?
In the bottom, much much deeper than you would think is still ok. Pretty much any discernible pitting you can feel with a pick is a fail if on the sidewall.
I can look up exact specs, but start with eliminating any tanks with sidewall pitting and don't worry too much about the bottom.
 
As great as it is that everyone loves their 72’s, that doesn’t really help the OP…

I don’t have access to my class materials or CGA Pamphlet C-6, but here’s a pdf that summarizes the info: http://www.galiso.net/Training/HTM/HazmatTraining2.pdf

Page 24 starts the material on pitting. The answer there is not less than 15% or 1/32 of an inch — it could be as much as 30% or 1/16 of an inch. Check the PDF for a lot more details, and, of course, the $150 or so C-6 PDF for the federally-sanctioned answer.

When I took my VIP class, I was *shocked* by how *deep* such pits could be allowed. Now, pits in lines are a problem, and you do *not* want any out-of-round or dents in the sidewall! Those limits are a lot tighter.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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