Older Atomic Titanium 1st stage with EAN32

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Also I think the 'X' upgrade was for environmentally sealing the 1st stage. You should see a rubber gasket holding in grease between the HP and LP segments, in addition to the 'X' on the faceplate.

- Dack
 
Oh and one final thing: if you've completely given up on the titanium reg, but still want the eye candy and can't fathom the thought of going to a brass reg, there's always the Atomic ST1...

- Dack
 
Dack, thank you for the informaiton. But $345 is just too much. I don't care about titanium or what other think about. For that much, I will go bought myself a Z2 and call it the say.
 
The issue with switching on Ti regs is due to the hydrocarbons left by non-O2 clean equipment. If you were always to dive O2 clean tanks, no issue in ranges between EAN40 or EAN20. Monel doesn't have the same restriction as titanium.

As said above it does but does not have to do with impurities. EAN can be continuously blended and have the same level of impurities as air. So in terms of switching there is zero difference.

Also I think the 'X' upgrade was for environmentally sealing the 1st stage. You should see a rubber gasket holding in grease between the HP and LP segments, in addition to the 'X' on the faceplate.

IIRC all of the Ti regs are environmentally sealed. The difference between the original T1 and the T1X is the jet seat piston and I believe the swivel hose on the second stage.

eelnoraa, IMHO when you decide to upgrade the old piston, have them replace it with a monel version of the jet seat instead of the stainless. I have serious doubts about the need to replace the swivel and HP seat retainers with the monel versions, especially the latter. Then go dive with either air or EAN. That is what is in my T1Xs and I have no issues with it.

The rest of the parts being replace are on the second stage so that when it is done it is a TX2. None of which have anything to do with needing to switch between air and EAN, they are all cosmetic sans one, which is the second stage housing which has had some minor tweaks to it. So in reality the upgrade could cost you far less. Basically, the cost of regularly or unregularly scheduled service and the new piston.
 
Thank you, Scared Silly. I will have what your suggested done on my next service.

And just for the record, I just did 2 tanks on EAN32, 1 tank on monkey mixed EAN29 and one tank on air over the weekend (All in pool tho). I am still alive. I plan to do 4 tanks on air this week (in pool for extra pratice) and 4 tanks on EAN32 next weekend for fundie ocean dive. Hopefully I'll survive, from both fundies & Ti reg. BTW, the fundie is kicking my a$$ seriously to a point I totally forgot to switch to a M1 1st stage
 
Please note that the SS on the T1 would need upgrading as well. Many parts would need changing in the SS including the whole outer casing if you want to end up with a T2x FS and SS.
 
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Please note that the SS on the T1 would need upgrading as well. Many parts would need changing in the SS including the whole outer casing if you want to end with a T2x FS and SS.

That is what I just said above many parts need to be changed if you want a T2x second stage (SS). However, the point is that none of the changes NEED to be done for compatibly for switching between air and EAN. There is no difference between a TX2 and B2 second stage except for cosmetics. One can use a B2 second stage out of the box for both air and EAN without issues (i.e. it does not need to be dedicated to air or EAN).

I should add, the only things I would do on a second stage is two things. Replace the old flat diaphragm retainer with the castle version and put a new exhaust on it so that bubbles are deflected a bit more.
 
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That is what I just said above many parts need to be changed if you want a T2x second stage (SS). However, the point is that none of the changes NEED to be done for compatibly for switching between air and EAN. There is no difference between a TX2 and B2 second stage except for cosmetics. One can use a B2 second stage out of the box for both air and EAN without issues (i.e. it does not need to be dedicated to air or EAN).

I should add, the only things I would do on a second stage is two things. Replace the old flat diaphragm retainer with the castle version and put a new exhaust on it so that bubbles are deflected a bit more.

Is this for the inhaul diaphram or the exhaust diaphram?
 
What you are calling the inhaul (inhale) diaphragm. If you take the purge cover off, there is a retainer holding the diaphragm. If it is flat then I would replace with the castle version mostly cause it is easier to remove. The flat version works fine just a PITA to remove.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/peregrine/

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