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You should be putting a good diesther synthetic oil in both of them, and depending on ambient temperature, changing every 50-200 hours. Good choices include products from Ultrachem, either 751 or 800, or from Anderol either 505 or 555. Brand names include Mako Blue and Bauer Something or another. Or, for far less money get on amazon and buy Miles Ep Breatech D ISO 100 Diester Based Synthetic Breathing Air Compressor Fluid 5 Gallon Pail: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific since you're not using them for breathing air.
Don't worry about the glycerine in the gauges. it isn't important as long as the gauge works. If the gauges are toast, and you are handy enough to make a new panel, make a new panel and use cheap gauges from Ashcroft. If you aren't handy, get Class One gauges from a fire supply store. Once you see the price of the Class One's, you'll get handy. The Ashcroft's don't fit the gauge holes you currently have, so you need to make the holes smaller.
The Mako should have a plate right above the oil sightglass that says 5404 or 5405 on it somewhere. That serial number is the Reavell block serial number, and I don't know if Reavell is still in business. Mako is owned by Gardner Denver now.
Don't worry about the glycerine in the gauges. it isn't important as long as the gauge works. If the gauges are toast, and you are handy enough to make a new panel, make a new panel and use cheap gauges from Ashcroft. If you aren't handy, get Class One gauges from a fire supply store. Once you see the price of the Class One's, you'll get handy. The Ashcroft's don't fit the gauge holes you currently have, so you need to make the holes smaller.
The Mako should have a plate right above the oil sightglass that says 5404 or 5405 on it somewhere. That serial number is the Reavell block serial number, and I don't know if Reavell is still in business. Mako is owned by Gardner Denver now.