Oceanic VT3 computer is brain damaged.

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Gauge Mode is NOT useless. It's there for a reason. Since that people don't know what the reason is for, that means they don't know how to use it and don't need to be using it.
For recreational diving its mainly useless since normal mode is so much more helpful in that situation. Gauge mode, like you are alluding to, is for when you are diving outside of the bounds of rec diving (trimix, deco, etc) and there are more useful computers for that or bottom timers that aren't so expensive.

I don't see how Gauge Mode or non-Dive Computer modes can be accidentally activated. You have to push two buttons at the same time and hold them down to change a lot of these modes.
You actually just hold down the left-front button for 2 seconds, release it (GAUG flashing) and press it once more to change to it. But still it should be something you notice when doing it.

The 50% Nitrox default setting is there to help keeping out of trouble the people who changed Nitrox mixes but didn't change computer settings.
It sucks when you are doing 2 dives on nitrox 30 and it resets to 50% O2, 79%N2 on the second dive and it says you have to make a 10 minute deco stop at 20 feet when you are 30 min into your second dive. Imagine that scenario, that's why it sucks. I have mine turned off but it was a little unclear what it did in the manual until you experience it.

Checking your computer's setting is simply a part of pre-dive equipment check.

Yeah I now check my nitrox mix, operating mode, and tank pressure before going under. You should too!


The problem with the VT3 is that you have to press two buttons to do lots of things. If you happen to press the wrong two buttons it will scroll to Gauge mode and then it's nearly impossible to get it back to Normal and make it stay. The VT3 is ill mannered in this way. I have several hundred dives on my VT3, and if I accidentally flip it to Gauge mode, I get really pissed because I might have just wasted 3 to 20 minutes to get it back to Normal and make it sit and stay
I disagree. Changing modes is a one button deal. The only thing you need to know how to do with 2 buttons is change your nitrox mix. changing the other settings is really not important to know because you do them either while consulting the manual or just plug it into your computer and set it that way.
 
Why didn't you just pull the battery for a few seconds to reset it?

Does that work?

I know on most systems, there is a permanent capacitor (battery) on the board that keeps you from losing your settings, dive log, etc. when you swap the battery. It writes the data to memory like a camera writes to a Sandisk.
 
Does that work?

I know on most systems, there is a permanent capacitor (battery) on the board that keeps you from losing your settings, dive log, etc. when you swap the battery. It writes the data to memory like a camera writes to a Sandisk.

Dunno.

It does on the 2 computers I own (Aeris Atmos Pro and Shearwater Predator) The predator comes back with a message "Warning,all tissue compartments cleared" or something like that. Aeris comes back totally cleared.

I guess a logged dive is different in that its just data.The dive has been done and nothing is going to change,whereas N2 and O2 loading calculations need a running processor and clock. Similar to how a PC retains the time when rebooted but sure as heck loses data!

The Diverite Duo has a reset button that needs a paperclip to access.

Edit: Just googled the VT3 manual.
Page 142! states that if the battery is replaced with 8 seconds O2 and N2 calculations will be retained,so remove the battery for longer than that and it will reset.

Probably a good idea to have a decent understanding of deco theory before tricking it into resetting.
 

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