Oceanic Geo 2.0 with Tusa USB Cable?

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I think I have one of those that worked with my Ardupilot.....I'll have to search around my box'o'parts tonight. If not, I'll wait for your How-To to buy/build anything.
 
Thanks for the instructions

I got it working for my Tusa Talis. Bought a cheapo $2.10 FTDI serial adaptor module off AliExpress (likely non-genuine). A few bits and pieces to tie it all together and the cost is below $5.

It doesn't work on Subsurface or the Diving Log software.. works with the Tusa software with no PID modifications needed
 
As promised, here's my writeup of what I did to make it work. Hope this helps - any suggestions, errors you find, please let us know. As always, do this at your own risk.

Stuff and things: Oceanic Geo2.0 DIY data cable

I know this thread is pretty old, but is there anyway you still have that write up? The link doesn't work anymore, and I'm having trouble getting it working.

Cheers!
 
I know this thread is pretty old, but is there anyway you still have that write up? The link doesn't work anymore, and I'm having trouble getting it working.

Cheers!

Here you go, All credit goes to the OP
 

Attachments

  • Oceanic Geo2 DIY Cable.pdf
    632.3 KB · Views: 313
I may have found the ideal 3 pin connector clip for the DIY cable. I saw this on eBay for $4.08 Canadian shipped and the pin spacing looks perfect. The only thing is that since this is being sold as a smart watch charging cable, I wonder if there are actually 3 wires (conductors) connected to the 3 pins, since only 2 are needed for charging. I may or may not need an interface cable for a TUSA Talis in the future, I'll know in a couple of days and if so, I will buy one of these.
s-l1600-jpg.526025
The clip that I'm talking about is #2 in this eBay posting: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Smart-Watch-Magnetic-Charger-Cable-Cord-USB-2-0-Male-to-4Pin-Pogo-Power-Charger/273315981328?var=572670292166

s-l1600.jpg
 
I may have found the ideal 3 pin connector clip for the DIY cable. I saw this on eBay for $4.08 Canadian shipped and the pin spacing looks perfect. The only thing is that since this is being sold as a smart watch charging cable, I wonder if there are actually 3 wires (conductors) connected to the 3 pins, since only 2 are needed for charging. I may or may not need an interface cable for a TUSA Talis in the future, I'll know in a couple of days and if so, I will buy one of these.
s-l1600-jpg.526025
The clip that I'm talking about is #2 in this eBay posting: https://www.ebay.ca/itm/Smart-Watch-Magnetic-Charger-Cable-Cord-USB-2-0-Male-to-4Pin-Pogo-Power-Charger/273315981328?var=572670292166

View attachment 526028
My eBay clip has arrived. The 3 pogo pins are properly spaced, but the cable is not 3 conductor. However, the bottom jaw of the clip is held together by 2 screws, so you can remove the 2 conductor cable and solder the USB-UART cable directly onto the pins. You have to work quickly when soldering, to prevent melting the plastic.. I managed to ruin my first attempt. I had finished the soldering, but the middle joint (ground) looked a bit cold, so I tried to re-solder it and that's when the melting happened. I should have just left it. I held it by the pins in an alligator clip type soldering vise, thinking that this would help to dissipate heat. I also put a small piece of corrugated cardboard between the alligator clip and the upper jaw of the clip, to prevent heating the foam pad on the upper jaw. Since the clip was only $4.08 Canadian, I have ordered another and will get it right in 4 weeks.
P1000652.JPG
 
Wow, this thread has been resurrected.
It actually has been tremendously helpful.


Here you go, All credit goes to the OP

r32gtr, thank you so much for providing that PDF, I ordered an FTDI FT232RL 40 days ago and it just arrived today... well, mission failed.

Not sure what is going on, but I tried to import the dives from my Geo to Diving Log & Subsurface and both gave me errors (DC_STATUS_DATAFORMAT) and then imports '35' dives which all are 2 dives I did, split into 35 dives. Too tired to figure it out now and the bloody FTDI chip isn't accepting the VID/PID programming so I can't test on Oceanic's software.

I may have found the ideal 3 pin ....

LKJ, the pins are standard DuPont spacing, you can use a servo cable like this, I just bent the wires against the plastic. I hold the cable to the watch by hand, it only takes few seconds for the download and it packs smaller for the road :p

0000000031619_Def_20.jpg
 
Yes, the solution from LKJ is the best. Nevertheless, it is possible and easier to do, especially if there are spring-loaded contacts. But then you have to hold it with your hand. It's not easy if you have 999 dives like LKJ.:)

p1.jpg



p2.jpg


The problem with fake FT232RT from Aliexpress or eBay is that the chip is now often "unkillable", that is non-programmable (I have encountered this myself), and to change the PID it is better to order the ORIGINAL chip and board.

But this is also not necessary. I have successfully used UART boards on CP2102, PL2303 and fake FT232 chips to scrape information from Oceanic Geo. In this case, you need to use programs from other manufacturers, not regular protected programs from Oceanic (and probably Tusa). Programs that use the libdivecomputer module.

For w.wolf, I can advise you to try the old versions of Diving Log and Subsurface. But, of course, the Oceanlog programm from Oceanic and USB-UART on FT232RT from Waveshare is the easiest option.
 
Well I met with success this time! The cable works perfectly with my TUSA Talis, using Subsurface and TUSA's DataLog. The soldering of the clip was again difficult, but at least I didn't melt the plastic clip this time. 2 of the 3 spring loaded pogo pins came out of their plastic holes very easily and are now held in place with super glue. Since there really isn't room for a strain relief, I used some Automotive Goop to secure the cable in the clip. Thanks very much to mlevsky , w.wolf, r32gtr and everyone else for the information,
Talis.jpg
P1000680.JPG
 

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