Oceanic Alpha 8 info

[fppf]

Your observations are incorrect about the orifice o-ring.

 

[AquaNSun]

Would you please explain? Attached is my Alpha 7 diagram for reference if that helps.

 

[redacted]

Your observations are incorrect about the orifice o-ring.

Yes, the orifice o-rings provides a seal between the IP gas in the hose and the ambient pressure in the regulator. When it fails, (water) gas will leak through the 2nd stage. But the point is rather simple and will be learned as the DIY venture progresses.

Good Luck.

Edit: I reread. Change water to gas.

The internet is a great resource for learning to service regulators. You can find documentation, parts, tools, and helpful folks to get you started and work through problems.

 

[fppf]

No, I do not want to elaborate, the internet is not the place to learn about regulator servicing.
Just like its not the place to learn decompression diving.

And again, I'm not a nay sayer, I'm a do it right and stop guessing sayer.

 

[AquaNSun]

fppf, you're welcome to participate in discussions.

If you disagree with something, then you should back up your explanations as to why. Obviously you have a reason. That is provided - if you want to DO it right.

This is a discussion board to share opinions. It's up to the individual to make his/her decisions. You are not responsible for anything other than providing and exchanging info. Peace.

 

[AquaNSun]

On second thought, after reading awap's edit, I see that a failed orifice O-ring will cause a slight air leakage, free flow, as the IP is higher in the hose than ambient water pressure. When a diver is at 130 ft, water pressure is about 59 psi (hope my calculation is right) so water won't flow into the hose.

 

[fppf]

Sorry to keep doing this, but again you are incorrect.

The relative IP on the second stage at 130 feet will be the SAME as the relative IP at the surface for most first stage regulators. Oceanic does something called over balancing, which will actually increase the relative IP as depth increases.

These are the extreme basics of regulator functionality. There all over the place in class manuals, the forums, even oceanic's web site. You either are not spending the time to properly educate yourself or your not understanding and you really need someone to teach you.

This thread only is reinforcing Oceanic's polices.

 

[SDAnderson]

This thread only is reinforcing Oceanic's polices.

"Trial and error" does seem to be a scary way to learn how to service a regulator, doesn't it.

OP: what follows is definitely NOT the manufacturer's protocol and following these suggestions may well be a terrible idea. I see a lot of seriously bollixed regulators come in from people that have tried to learn on their own - it's a bad idea - but it will be your neck and your bill if you screw up. As a general rule, we all do better when we spend more time worrying about the cost of a compromise than the benefit. A little knowledge is a dangerous thing, be sure you really know what you're doing.

Specific to your Oceanic 2nd: Remove the inlet and the adjustable orifice from the 2nd stage. Discard the two o-rings, you may (or may not - look closely) be able to flip the poppet seat once but personally I never do. DIY guys without the tools and the parts should NOT remove the poppet assembly unless you need to. The unit can usually be cleaned (assuming you're doing it right - not the Joy in a mayo jar method) without removing the poppet, fully disassembling it can cause a number of problems and the thing is a pita to work with unless you have a special tool. If you do fully disassemble the poppet assembly, you'll get better results by replacing the nylok nut and the poppet spring - both hard to find items. Use Viton or EPDM A70 o-rings and Tribolube, Cristo-lube or Krytox to lubricate the o-rings prior to reassembly. When you replace the inlet, the torque matters - too much and you crack the body, too little and the inlet comes loose, usually 70 feet down. Use an inline adjustment tool (not a screwdriver) to remove, replace and adjust the adjustable orifice to avoid damage and for ease of use. Be sure you're holding the lever down when you first pressurize the 2nd stage, release the lever slowly. Cycle the regulator a couple of dozen times (low flow) and let it sit while pressurized for awhile before the final adjustment. Remember that the orifice adjusts the lever height, the nut adjusts the spring pressure.

Better yet, buy a HOG regulator and take the service class. You'll be able to learn from a pro, you'll have access to parts and you'll be supporting a manufacturer that wants technical divers to know how to work on their own gear.

Kumbayah, y'all.

 

[AquaNSun]

fppf: I think we are talking about two different things here and your statement is confusing. The IP (gas) from the first stage stops at the orifice's O-ring, on the hose side, if the O-ring is sealing perfectly. The pressure on the thread's side of the Orifice is exposed to ambient pressure and it changes with depth. Im refering to my Alpha 7 configuration specifically. The thread's side of the orifice is the same side as the poppet stem, spring, lever arm, and to your mouth so it's at
ambient (water) pressure not IP (gas) pressure.

Im not talking about 1st stage functionality, over balancing, or asking in this thread "How do I service my regs?" Remember, my question is - How do I read O-ring sizes from Oceanic part numbers! And trying to discuss about O-rings.

As to the intention of this question, it's irrelavant for this question. But if you ask, I won't hide and I will say it out loud - Yes, Im trying to dissamble my reg and playing with it as a project. Im not trying to service regs for friends or anyone else as I don't have that intention. Im trying to learn and specifically Alpha 7.

FYI: I do have the tools and instructions on how to dissamble my Alpha 7 and test it. I may not be perfect and things may not work out well, but that is the point of this project. More importantly, how can I test my reg safely without hurting myself. That's a question Im more concern than my reg falling apart.

 

[redacted]

Sorry to keep doing this, but again you are incorrect.

The relative IP on the second stage at 130 feet will be the SAME as the relative IP at the surface for most first stage regulators. Oceanic does something called over balancing, which will actually increase the relative IP as depth increases.

These are the extreme basics of regulator functionality. There all over the place in class manuals, the forums, even oceanic's web site. You either are not spending the time to properly educate yourself or your not understanding and you really need someone to teach you.

This thread only is reinforcing Oceanic's polices.

Or he is still learning. As I did and I'm sure as you did. none of these errors are catastrophic. And I'll be I can find "professional" reg techs working in shops today who can not explain how regulator adjust for ambient pressures.

I also do not find trial and error to be such an appalling way of contributing to reg service learning. Most of us have done it on occasion. The saving grace is that when you do get it wrong, the error tend to be quite obvious in the form of bad performance or a leaking regulator. About the only exception I can think of offhand is the problem the problem with over and under tightened connections. That type of error can put you at depth with a serious potential problem.

Oceanic's policy (actually, their change of policy) sucks. If I had bought an Oceanic regulator from one of the dealers who promised customer parts support, he would be buying it back.

If DIY reg service were really the danger some folks and manufacturers claim it to be, you would think we would be hearing of the occasional DIYer who payed the price for his efforts. That, and becoming an authorized regulator technician might actually take as much training and testing as becoming an OW diver. What does it require in most cases? ONE day of training?


Edit: As far as testing a regulator goes, here is a good start: http://www.scubaboard.com/forums/regulators/260452-regulator-checklist-inspection.html If you are still not confident in the work that was done (yours or someone else's) then dive conservatively at first and repeat the inspection.