No Bleed Valve SPG?

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This is the correct approach. That blue teflon tape start to leak in about 1/2 turn.

Alternatively, the QD may also leak down in a day or two on its own.

Putting the tank in water will contain zero force of anything - don't bother.

That was suggested in the very first response to this thread, but you know what, I’m liking the various alternatives suggested later on though, that coupled with my request for cameras and I’d like to add OP should also have some cats in the same room, with doors closed please.
 
That is not the same as your inflator, in OPs case, his connection has 3000PSI of pressure.
Could be just as easy to unplug, I wouldn’t know, I have never tried to undo a quick disconnect which was pressurized to 3k psi
They are not dis-connectable when under more than a few bar
 
You could drill a small hole in the female coupling that the gauge is screwed in to.

As you drill, the material in the spot you drill will thin and eventually the pressure will cause a burst like a ruptured burst disk.

With the cylinder valve shut off, the burst will most likely be loud but very short lived as there is very little volume of air in the gauge and couplings.

-Z
 
You could drill a small hole in the female coupling that the gauge is screwed in to.

As you drill, the material in the spot you drill will thin and eventually the pressure will cause a burst like a ruptured burst disk.

With the cylinder valve shut off, the burst will most likely be loud but very short lived as there is very little volume of air in the gauge and couplings.

-Z
Why? There is no need to ruin any of this. Unscrew the SPG from the brass nipple by 1/4-1/2 turn and it will leak and its fine. Replace the teflon tape, re-tighten and it's back together exactly as before
 
Why? There is no need to ruin any of this. Unscrew the SPG from the brass nipple by 1/4-1/2 turn and it will leak and its fine. Replace the teflon tape, re-tighten and it's back together exactly as before

oh, I didn't realize we were past the stage of offering possible solutions to the OP's dilema.

Assuming the SPG will turn and pressure relief will be obtained in a non-destructive manner, the idea you outline is great....but should it not work, there is now one more idea added to the stack for the OP to evaluate.

-Z
 
SOLVED: FYI, this could be due to poor O-ring seal (or less than ideal seals elsewhere in this setup) -- left over the weekend and psi went from 3000 to 700 and was easy to remove.

Thanks all for the input, wouldn't recommend setting up an SPG without a bleed valve :D
 
If you need a DIN-male in the mix somewhere anyway, I think DGX's 1/4NPT to DIN with a bleed is possibly the best priced option base on my recent purchases (converting my stuff to DIN including my fill whips). $30 and it helps keep the stack a reasonable length. I paid more than that recently for just a inline bleeder I needed for a different type of hookup.
 
SOLVED: FYI, this could be due to poor O-ring seal (or less than ideal seals elsewhere in this setup) -- left over the weekend and psi went from 3000 to 700 and was easy to remove.

Thanks all for the input, wouldn't recommend setting up an SPG without a bleed valve :D
Well it did make for an interesting thread of somewhat questionable ideas for the weekend.
I have a pressure gauge on quick connects, but it isn't dead headed. Mine is on a Tee. I'll use it for supply when running the booster. Note the bottle pressure as I turn it off.
 
Well it did make for an interesting thread of somewhat questionable ideas for the weekend.
I have a pressure gauge on quick connects, but it isn't dead headed. Mine is on a Tee. I'll use it for supply when running the booster. Note the bottle pressure as I turn it off.
All of my DINs have a bleeder then the QD. Putting the QD directly on the DIN was the mistake here. It's easy to engineer out the OP's problem
 

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