Nitrox Analyzer - How many use one?
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Test my tanks at the shop with their analyzer. Haven't dived anywhere yet where I didn't have my own tanks filled at my shop.
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I test my tank(s) at least twice. Once right after the fill, usually with my club's analyzer, then on the site when I'm assembling my gear. If I top up the tank another day than I filled it, I re-analyze. On-site analysis is done with my own analyzer. I have an Analox O2Eii which I'm quite happy with.
And if the on-site analysis differs more than ~1 percentage point from the marking on the tank, that's a red flag for me.
And if the on-site analysis differs more than ~1 percentage point from the marking on the tank, that's a red flag for me.
Every time I pick up an EANx tank from the shop(s). It is a policy to verify, label MOD, and log the results.
If I was just given a tank, there is no way I'd dive it without analyzing it.
Do not have a personal analyzer yet. Have used the one at the LDS or on the liveaboard. I was really impressed with the Nuvair quick sticks that we used on the Aqua Cat. Simple to calibrate and simple to use. Seem to hold up well according to the crew.
I use an older oms square style analyzer with a din flow restrictor for dive boats and nitrox, it is small and easily carried in a dry box. For trimix I use an analox Ata pro (which could be used for oxygen or helium)
Browse ebay and you will usually find some for cheap, like 50 to 60 bucks cheap. Then just throw in a new sensor and bingo, you have an analyzer. I prefer using a first stage restrictor to maintain an adequate flow of air to test. That way I have consistency in my results.
You can never test enough. Test it after the fill, before you leave your house, and before you dive it. And sticker the tanks with your mod. I use yellow painters tape with a green marker for nitrox tanks. Blue tape and silver marker for air. And orange tape with black for trimix. That way at a glance I know what I'm grabbing. Then I retest before putting my mouth on it.
*edit, autocorrect didn't work*
Browse ebay and you will usually find some for cheap, like 50 to 60 bucks cheap. Then just throw in a new sensor and bingo, you have an analyzer. I prefer using a first stage restrictor to maintain an adequate flow of air to test. That way I have consistency in my results.
You can never test enough. Test it after the fill, before you leave your house, and before you dive it. And sticker the tanks with your mod. I use yellow painters tape with a green marker for nitrox tanks. Blue tape and silver marker for air. And orange tape with black for trimix. That way at a glance I know what I'm grabbing. Then I retest before putting my mouth on it.
*edit, autocorrect didn't work*
I analyze when I pick up the tanks from the LDS using their analyzer; when diving locally I analyze again the night before a trip using my own analyzer (homebuilt from a kit; was called "Cheap O2 analyzer" or something like that). On dive boats when I'm using their tanks, analyze and log before every dive. Having been thinking about a CO analyzer for awhile; reading this thread took me to the cootwo product; will likely end up buying that.
I use the shop analyzer @ fill then analyze before dive with Oxycheq analyzer wether they "need" it or not. The routine is simple/automatic and and I can cheq my analyzer against shops analyzer. I'm always alone and have multiple sets of doubles.
Caveats: Newbie, not nitrox certified (yet), but you all posted in basic so you get basic questions. 
What is the thought on the two tests? A leaky valve letting something in or out between shop and dive? Verifying what was written on the tape? Do some of the gasses "degrade" in a chemical reaction and change structure with time? Just curious as I will probably get there sooner rather than later.
What is the thought on the two tests? A leaky valve letting something in or out between shop and dive? Verifying what was written on the tape? Do some of the gasses "degrade" in a chemical reaction and change structure with time? Just curious as I will probably get there sooner rather than later.
If there is water in a steel tank, rusting will occur which will change some of the O2 to iron oxide. If I ever get a lower number on the second test, I will empty the tank, pull the valve and inspect. That is one reason.
A faulty cell on the first tester is another reason to test before you dive. A mixup in recording the O2 content is yet another. It is easily done and you should never be wondering about your gas when diving. It's like leaving for a vacation and checking the locks one last time before you get in the car. That memory of it being the last thing you did means you can stop wondering.
A faulty cell on the first tester is another reason to test before you dive. A mixup in recording the O2 content is yet another. It is easily done and you should never be wondering about your gas when diving. It's like leaving for a vacation and checking the locks one last time before you get in the car. That memory of it being the last thing you did means you can stop wondering.
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