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I too am looking to purchase my first torch. I also have roughly like 40 dives under my belt and really only dive in clear water on vacations to warm water areas. It would primarily be used for looking under shelves, crevices, etc, at recreational depths, usually not even below 60ft. Then if I ever make it to a night dive, I'd want one for that obviously too.

Would that DGX700 be a solid bet that would meet my needs?

When I search on Amazon or even on scuba.com, it's just so overwhelming with how many there are and the prices just vary so much.

Well, in my personal opinion, yes, definitely good for day time dives, looking under shelves, etc..

But, maybe contrary to intuition, for night dives, I prefer something different. Basically, the DGX700 is too bright for night dives. At least, to me.

What I really prefer on a night dive is a video light aka a light with a flood beam, rather than a spot beam.

I generally use this Mako video light for night dives.


It doesn't mention it on the web page, but on mine if I turn it off and back on quickly, it toggles between a high and low output setting.

It puts out very roughly the same amount of light as the DGX700. But, it's spread out over such a wide area that it does not seem nearly as bright.

It is great for night dives because it lights up a big area, making it easier to spot critters. And, it is not so bright that it scares the critters away like a brighter light tends to do. Nor does it blind the critters as badly.

If you eventually want to get a "better" light for night dives, you can spend a fair bit more and get a light that will also do red light and that will do blue light.

Red light helps you see without scaring the critters away and preserves better ability to see in the dark areas that you don't have lit up.

Blue light is good for getting different things to flouresce. You generally want to have a yellow filter for your mask and/or camera to really make the flourescence stand out.

So, different lights for different jobs. Or spend a lot more money than the combined cost on one light that can do both. E.g. any Big Blue VTL series light. Those have a spot beam, a wide beam, and usually red and some also have blue lights all built into one light.

Like this one at $400 that does spot, flood, and red, and then they go up from there.


Or its sibling at $430 that does spot, flood, red, and blue.

 
Well, in my personal opinion, yes, definitely good for day time dives, looking under shelves, etc..

But, maybe contrary to intuition, for night dives, I prefer something different. Basically, the DGX700 is too bright for night dives. At least, to me.

What I really prefer on a night dive is a video light aka a light with a flood beam, rather than a spot beam.

I generally use this Mako video light for night dives.


It doesn't mention it on the web page, but on mine if I turn it off and back on quickly, it toggles between a high and low output setting.

It puts out very roughly the same amount of light as the DGX700. But, it's spread out over such a wide area that it does not seem nearly as bright.

It is great for night dives because it lights up a big area, making it easier to spot critters. And, it is not so bright that it scares the critters away like a brighter light tends to do. Nor does it blind the critters as badly.

If you eventually want to get a "better" light for night dives, you can spend a fair bit more and get a light that will also do red light and that will do blue light.

Red light helps you see without scaring the critters away and preserves better ability to see in the dark areas that you don't have lit up.

Blue light is good for getting different things to flouresce. You generally want to have a yellow filter for your mask and/or camera to really make the flourescence stand out.

So, different lights for different jobs. Or spend a lot more money than the combined cost on one light that can do both. E.g. any Big Blue VTL series light. Those have a spot beam, a wide beam, and usually red and some also have blue lights all built into one light.

Like this one at $400 that does spot, flood, and red, and then they go up from there.


Or its sibling at $430 that does spot, flood, red, and blue.

Thanks for all of that.

To be honest, I haven't done a night dive ever (in over 5 years of being certified) so I don't think getting one specifically for night diving is a high priority just because I doubt I'd ever be doing a lot of them. And if I did end up doing that, I could get a specific one for that.

I did see that the OrcaTorch ones (like 550 or 710) seem to have a "high" and "low" settings. On those, would using it in high mode during the day then low mode during a night dive work? Or are those low settings too low to actually use for night dives?
 
Thanks for all of that.

To be honest, I haven't done a night dive in over 5 years of being certified so I don't think getting one specifically for night diving is a high priority just because I doubt I'd ever be doing a lot of them. And if I did end up doing that, I could get a specific one for that.

I did see that the OrcaTorch ones (like 550 or 710) seem to have a "high" and "low" settings. On those, would using it in high mode during the day then low mode during a night dive work? Or are those low settings too low to actually use for night dives?

Yes, the lower settings on the D710 would be low enough for night diving.

I was just reading up on the Dive Rite CX2, with which I was not really familiar.

It is about 1.5" longer than the D710, which I don't really like that much (shorter is better). But, it has a newer, better tech LED. And it has 4 brightness levels. It uses the same battery as the D710. I believe it will actually go much brighter than the D710 in the real world, while also lasting longer on a charge, thanks to the newer tech, more efficient LED.

I believe its brightness levels would also work well for day and for night diving.

I think I'm going to get a CX2 to check out for myself.

I would definitely at least consider the CX2 over the D710. My educated guess is that the CX2 is much more "honest" in living up to its specs. The D710 flat out does NOT put out anywhere close to 3000 lumens, like they claim. That's my belief and I'm sticking to it.

 
I'm going to offer slightly different advice. I prefer the switch versions of the single 18650 battery lights for the OP's purpose (open water, decent viz, mostly daylight). I have one of each of these styles. The only difference is the Mako has the switch on the tail and the DGX on the side. They are the same brightness and last the same amount of time despite the names.



I've been using one of these during day dives and the pair during night dives for years. The big advantage of the button is that you can select the low power option which is really all you want most of the time at night and even during the day unless you are looking in cracks in a sunlit wall or signalling your buddy. They also last well over 3 hours on the low setting. I don't know how much since I charge overnight on dive trips. I've never had a problem with the light being turned on accidentally. I know there were some lights that had a bad reputation for getting accidentally turned on, but not these.

FWIW, you can buy an 18650 with the built in charging port. For example: New! 18650 Lithium 3400 mAh Battery w/ USB Charging Port! , Piranha Dive Shop | .

I will note that charging any of these with the included micro-USB chargers is pretty much an overnight task. If you are using them a lot, it would be worth getting a better charger.
 
I'm going to offer slightly different advice. I prefer the switch versions of the single 18650 battery lights for the OP's purpose (open water, decent viz, mostly daylight). I have one of each of these styles. The only difference is the Mako has the switch on the tail and the DGX on the side. They are the same brightness and last the same amount of time despite the names.



I've been using one of these during day dives and the pair during night dives for years. The big advantage of the button is that you can select the low power option which is really all you want most of the time at night and even during the day unless you are looking in cracks in a sunlit wall or signalling your buddy. They also last well over 3 hours on the low setting. I don't know how much since I charge overnight on dive trips. I've never had a problem with the light being turned on accidentally. I know there were some lights that had a bad reputation for getting accidentally turned on, but not these.

FWIW, you can buy an 18650 with the built in charging port. For example: New! 18650 Lithium 3400 mAh Battery w/ USB Charging Port! , Piranha Dive Shop | .

I will note that charging any of these with the included micro-USB chargers is pretty much an overnight task. If you are using them a lot, it would be worth getting a better charger.

I should have been more specific about my disdain for buttons. I have no issues with lights with a push button on the tail - presuming it has a raised area around the button. It is side buttons that I have issues with getting pressed by accident.

I do have to reiterate that twist lights also CAN have multiple brightness settings. I have one that does it.

I have a bunch of lights that take 18650 cells. But, 21700 are barely any bigger and about 50% more capacity. So, I definitely would prefer 21700-based lights. You can pretty much always use a sleeve and an 18650 cell in a 21700 light. Just not the other way. You know, in case you have a supply of 18650 cells that you don't want to throw away.
 
I've owned the less expensive Orcatorch and Xtar lights for years and the only issues I've had have been the springs rusting behind the switch (easy / cheap replacement and mostly do to me being lazy after diving in salt) and I've had 2 lights with proprietary batteries drain to the point where they don't work anymore (the lights work fine and the manf. sent me new batteries under warranty).

I'm pretty much in the same boat as @stuartv, not crazy about push buttons of any kind and if I had to buy a new light today I'd go for one that used 21700 batteries that had levels of output (high / med / low).

You should be able to get a light that fits that for $100-120?
 
Hi everyone!
I'm at exactly the same place "reasearching" dive lights for a while, so I will try to summarise my overview here as the more reviews I read, the more confused I tend to get :)

I'm an AOW diver atm and hoping to move to tec diving soon (living in UK) so I'm in search of my entry primary/backup lights. (nb. I have small cave/wreck experience at recreational level)

So I add my narrowed down options below, based also on UK availability (and not considering a canister battery yet):

Primary:

1. Halcyon Flare EXP / DiveRite H50 HH (£ 850-900) - seem too expensive for a handheld option
2. Dive Rite LX20+ (~ £500) - seems optimal to start the tec diving journey
3. BigBlue VTL4200P (~ £380) - I've read all your concerns about output/duration claims, just the double fcus beam sounds quite tempting at this price point
4. Nanight Sport 2 (~ £290) - seems decent, justs doesn't satisfy any needs at the fullest

*Please add other favourites I might have missed


Secondary - (Twist / compact)

1. Halcyon HP LED Scout (£200+)
2. Dive Rite BX-2 (~ £80)
3. DGX 700 (~ £80 / not avail atm in UK?)
4. OrcaTorch 530/700 (£ 80-100)

+A few more that I forget now

So initially I was thinking of going with the DR LX20+ and the 6° beam and maybe something wider as a backup (maybe DGX700 or Orcatorch? any better options available for this scenario?)

However, I liked more and more the idea of entering a wider area/room in a cave/wreck and being able to widen the focus on the spot and light up the space, as @stuartv also mentioned it in another comment!

Hence I'm considering the option of buying a BB VTL4200P as a primary (ruled out SOLA 2500 for the factory sealed battery) and a DiveRite BX-2 as a backup (which I can also use for the 6° beam if visibility is getting too bad).
Plus I can also use the BB as a video light in case I need it, as I enjoy taking some underwater shots but it's not my priority at this point so as to invest any more money and add more bulk for dedicated video lights and mounts.

All the above being said, thinking that I'll eventually move to a canister option if I get hooked to it (like I have an option here!) and I 'll just keep the BB as 1 of my backup lights (as it's not super bulky).

Also this BB version has 1x 32650 battery, so I suppose it won't be difficult to replace or get a spare like the other proprietary ones for the largest BigBlue models (please correct me if I'm wrong)


Ultimately, is the BigBlue VLT as enjoyable as it sounds with the adjustable beam and the red light (if anyone has tested it) or is it just a gimmick and I should stick with the LX20+ --which looks like it's gonna carry me much further into the tec diving journey before I need to replace it for something more powerful--?

Thanks and apologies for the long thread!
Safe dives!
 
Buy today what you need today. When you need a primary, there could well be a better choice available. And if your goal is wreck diving, it is very unlikely that a canister light will ever make sense.

A pair of DGX700s will serve you well now and will continue to serve you well as backups to a real primary light for well into the future.

I would personally hate to spend the money that a VTL4200P costs, knowing that it just has one "7500 mAh" battery (and color me skeptical that it really has 7500 mAh). There is just no way it will burn very long at the brightness it claims. A VTL9000P-Max has almost double the battery capacity of the 4200. Thus, it should run roughly twice as long, when set to output the same amount of light. And, it CAN go a lot brighter, when you want/need it.

I think (for ME) I would ultimately just really not like the 4200. The spot beam High setting is about the same brightness as the DGX700. Or such is my expectation, based on their output claims. And it only has 50% more battery capacity than the DGX700. Yeah, the 4200 can do a pretty bright flood beam, but not for long. Ultimately, I think I would be pretty dissatisfied with the 4200.

I can live with the 9000 because it has a lot more battery and it CAN go a lot brighter. For me, that mostly just means I'll run it on a low setting and it will last a LOT longer than a DGX700. And I can use it on recreational dives and run it pretty darn bright and it will still last for 2 dives at a reasonable output level.

If you get one of the BB's, I highly recommend getting their hard Goodman handle for it, too.

Lastly, think about what you will want to do in the future. If it includes taking a video camera much, then you're going to want one or two good video lights for that. If you're going to buy those anyway, then they may obviate your need to buy a combo light that does spot and flood. When I do night dives, I generally have a spot beam light on me, turned off, and a flood/video light mounted on top of my camera that is my main light for the dive. I can turn the spot beam on and use it for signaling, if needed, but mostly it's just not needed.
 
Thanks so much, that was all really helpful to clear my mind a bit!

I would personally hate to spend the money that a VTL4200P costs, knowing that it just has one "7500 mAh" battery (and color me skeptical that it really has 7500 mAh). There is just no way it will burn very long at the brightness it claims. A VTL9000P-Max has almost double the battery capacity of the 4200. Thus, it should run roughly twice as long, when set to output the same amount of light. And, it CAN go a lot brighter, when you want/need it.
Spot on! I just realised that the narrow beam on the VTL4200P is claimed at 1300 lux (4200 on flood mode). I was thinking of it as an upgraded version of the TL3800.

In that case, indeed only the VTL9000P would make sense for what I had in mind, which brings the budget up to £725 in UK.

In the menawhile, have you tested it underwater since you received it? Are you happy with the duration and how it performs underwater?
TBH the price tag seems quite steep for BB's questionable(?) reliability, or for somehting that will be replaced by a better spot light sooner or later.
Also this one seems quite bulky to ever be considered as a backup torch.

Lastly, think about what you will want to do in the future. If it includes taking a video camera much, then you're going to want one or two good video lights for that. If you're going to buy those anyway, then they may obviate your need to buy a combo light that does spot and flood. When I do night dives, I generally have a spot beam light on me, turned off, and a flood/video light mounted on top of my camera that is my main light for the dive. I can turn the spot beam on and use it for signaling, if needed, but mostly it's just not needed

I hear you! My upcoming plans are to delve into tec diving, focusing on wrecks as the Channel here offers plenty of options.
Regarding video shooting, while it's not a priority my camera does come with me usually during my rec dives, so I might also consider dedicated video light(s) at some point (also for night dives).


All in all, now I'm leaning more towards the DiveRite LX20+ which is a reputable brand and will serve me well in the tec diving journey and I can keep my Seac R15 as a night torch for now with its12/75° angle.

One last question:)
Leaving video/photography aside, what would you say that is the biggest disadvantage(s) -if any- of a solid 6° beam like the LX20+, or a dive scenario that you wouldn't bring this light with you.

Thanks again, appreciate all the insight!
 

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