New tank throwing off my trim

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

...
After that change I was diving the lp108 with no lead very comfortably. Hope this helps.
This is the situation that I have conserns about. With no removable weight what's your backup plan to make the surface if your wing fails?

Back to the OP. I've run a number of Buoyancy & Trim Workshops. The common factor on a candidate's performance is not their configeration but the amount and regularity of the diving they do. Those in the water every week walk away with the Black grade, once a month Gold, Sliver and Bronze are pretty interchangeable for the summer only divers. Those that do the B&T with new kit are surprised how their performance deteriorates.

Kind regards
 
In more challenging Drift Diving conditions, the extra time required for the SM divers, is often going to cause them to miss the wreck on the bottom....you need to be able to jump off the platform and be 30 feet down in the next few seconds....:) Easy with Back Mount.
....and it's easy with sidemount, as well. I've never had an issue diving SM, even doing hotdrops with BM divers in high-current conditions. In fact, none of your anti-SM points are valid in my experience.

danvolker:
much easier for buddy teams to be able to help each other effectively with for gear familiarity issues
This is the other one that drives me bonkers! How BAD of a diver do you have to be for this to be an issue? I've done dives with SM divers trained by the same guy as me, wearing my setup, and I've done dives with SM-virgin, GUE divers. It changed nothing.


What pressure rating did the 15L have?

My regular tank is a 15Lx200bar, and I can't say I feel any noticeable difference to a 10Lx300bar. The 15x300, OTOH...

In the US, 300bar is something we'd LOVE to get our hands on (all cave divers would, at least :D). Our LP tanks are 160bar (2400psi) while our HP tanks are 232bar (3440psi). So, when he says LP108 it's a tank rated to 160bar. In "Cave Country" these tanks are regularly overfilled to 232bar.

PS- One thing that drives me bonkers about metric tanks is the lack of a pressure rating.....but you've always posted water volume and pressure, which makes me want to convert ALL of my diving to metric. If everyone did this I'd be a MUCH happier camper.
 
One thing that drives me bonkers about metric tanks is the lack of a pressure rating.....but you've always posted water volume and pressure, which makes me want to convert ALL of my diving to metric. If everyone did this I'd be a MUCH happier camper.
I really dunno if it's just me, but since we've got three different pressure ratings (200bar, 232bar and 300bar) around here, I've always used both water volume and pressure rating to specify a tank's capacity. I don't think it's just me, though, 'cause when I'm checking the classifieds (our version of Craigslist), 4 out of 5 ads give both volume and pressure. The ads not giving both usually lack other details about the gear as well.

These days, there's really no 200bar tanks to be found new in the stores, though. Most 10 liters are 300 bar and most 12 or 15 liters are 232bar. At least unless you're looking for tanks for a double set. I guess it's a question of what's reasonable to lift and carry...



--
Sent from my Android phone
Typos are a feature, not a bug
 
I had a chance to play in a pool and get 4 dives in last weekend. That's all I needed apparently. I was able to get back to excellent trim and was even able to hover motionless in the tech position for a little bit in the pool. I moved the tank a couple of inches up and got used to the weight distribution. Now I love the tank. It does hit my head a bit when I am looking forward but I can live with that in exchange for great trim.

Thank you all for the tips.
 
When one makes a significant change in gear configuration (as you did), it takes a while to adjust to the new rig. I hope that didn't come as a surprise.
 
Well, you're not using ::your hands:: :D
Just one dive? Give em a chance, new stuff quite often feels a little weird :wink:
 
I just moved from an Al80 to a steel HP80. On the first dive, I was WAY out of trim and my buoyancy was terrible. I spent the entire next dive 15-20' under a tube buoy, in the sand, adjusting weights and tank position. After about 45 minutes of flipping over, sinking, corking, and just being uncomfortable, I finally started to dial in both buoyancy and trim.

I think I am pretty close and am looking forward to my next dive to see if I can repeat the correct set up. I am WELL aware that getting buoyancy and trim correct is an ongoing, never-ending thing, but I think you have to spend a dive or two dedicated to getting close.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

Back
Top Bottom