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I have worthington x7 100cu steel. They come with yoke but by unscrewing one nut they can be used for DIN so they are both. They is lighter than LP but getting 3450 psi fills can be a challenge. Where you get them filled is important. They need to be cooled when filling then you get a complete fill. If they do a hot fill you don't. LP's are easier to fill but are heavier. Many people over fill them to get even more psi/cu. With all steel tanks you get to take weight off your weight belt 5 or 6 pounds. I like 100cu because they give me enough air for most dives. Depending on who I dive with I often end the dive with 1000 psi which is nice. AL80's are cheap but very buoyant.

I love my x7 100cu. steel tanks they are perfect for me.
 
I want to get a new tank but there is so much to choose from im not really sure what tank best fits me. I am diving an AL80 right now that I borrowed from my father. It does work fine and I guess I could get one just like it but looking around I have many options I never considered. Aluminum or steel, HP or LP, yoke or DIN. I have a DIN 1st stage with a yoke adapter so I could use a DIN valve but what is better about a DIN valve over a yoke. I also just started drysuit diving and would like to shed a few pounds so mabey a steel tank would be a good idea. If I got a HP tank could I get fills higher than 3000PSI? My LDS only had AL80 with yoke valves with the plug you can pull out to make it a DIN valve in stock. So when I asked him all these questions he kept pointing me in that direction. Not to say he is wrong but I am not sure if he was just trying to tell me what I wanted to hear or if he was telling me the truth. Any opinions?

Hello DUI.

You've asked some good questions. Ones that many divers begin to ask as they get more involved in diving and decide to purchase their own gear.

The selection of a tank is usually based on the needs of the diver. Factors such as total gas needs, SAC rate, ballast needs, trim and buoyancy needs are to be considered.

Lets look at the issues you raised.

Aluminum vs Steel : Most divers were trained using Aluminum 80s. They are durable, less expensive, thicker, and more positive (they float more) when empty.
Steel tanks are more expensive, more resistant to damage, have a higher potential volume capacity, are more negative at the end of the dive, but are more prone to rust.
The selection for most divers when comparing steel vs aluminum usually centers around the need for more breathing gas and the ability to take the weight normally worn on a weight belt or integrated BC and displace it to the tank where it will rest closer to your center of gravity. If you are doing relatively short dives in relatively shallow water then an aluminum tank should fill your needs. If you are doing deeper dives or require more bottom time then a steel tank may be more suitable.

HP vs LP : This issue has been discussed quite a bit and I would suggest doing a search using those words to see what the resident experts have to say. Briefly,
the difference in LP and HP revolves around the ability to overfill the tank as well as the density of the walls of the tank. A HP tank is usually filled to its rated pressure. So that a HP 100 has 100 cu ft of gas at 3442 psi. These tanks are not usually over pressurized. Divers have chosen to overfill LP tanks beyond their rated pressure. Whether this is right or wrong has also been discussed by the resident experts and their opinions both pro and con are worth reading. So that a LP 95 has 95 cu ft of gas at 2400 psi. A diver would have more gas in the cylinder if they filled it to 3000 psi for example.
Some concerns that divers have had regarding HP tanks is that not all fill shops have the ability to put 3442 psi of gas in a tank or are used to just filling all tanks to 3000 psi. This means that the HP tank would not be full. For LP tanks, not all fill stations will fill the tank beyond its rated pressure. Thus if they fill it to 2400 psi, you still have 95 cu ft of gas in a Steel 95 for example. I am not advocating one over the other, just discussing the thought process that divers go through when selecting between the two.

DIN vs Yoke : My understanding is that is has been thought that a DIN connection is a more secure connection since the 1st stage is threaded into the valve as opposed to placed over the valve in a yoke connection. It is also my understanding after reading the posts in the Regulator section that this is a subjective approach, with both connections proving to be equally successful in accomplishing their goals. The difference may come in dealing with higher pressures. Most of the technical divers that I know use DIN connections with yoke adapters for when they travel abroad. This way your 1st stage is able to accommodate either set up. Tank valves with the yoke plug seem to be more common these days and seem like a reasonable idea. The goal again is that it gives you more options depending on how you have your gear configured or might want it configured in the future. I think the person in the dive shop was telling you the truth.

Hope this helps and I look forward to reading the input from other posters.
 
For diving singles I like diving a LP 121 Din, for Doubles: LP 108's is a pretty good set up...
 
I want to get a new tank but there is so much to choose from im not really sure what tank best fits me. I am diving an AL80 right now that I borrowed from my father. It does work fine and I guess I could get one just like it but looking around I have many options I never considered. Aluminum or steel, HP or LP, yoke or DIN. I have a DIN 1st stage with a yoke adapter so I could use a DIN valve but what is better about a DIN valve over a yoke. I also just started drysuit diving and would like to shed a few pounds so mabey a steel tank would be a good idea. If I got a HP tank could I get fills higher than 3000PSI? My LDS only had AL80 with yoke valves with the plug you can pull out to make it a DIN valve in stock. So when I asked him all these questions he kept pointing me in that direction. Not to say he is wrong but I am not sure if he was just trying to tell me what I wanted to hear or if he was telling me the truth. Any opinions?


Cold Water Diving:

I started with AL80's and a Seaquest Balance BCD and 28 lbs of lead with a 7-mil wetsuit. I really hated all that lead, so I changed to HP100's and a SS BP/W, and that allowed me to drop about 16 lbs of lead.

I also had a DIN regulator but there was never any call for it so I had it switched over to yoke.

I also went on a diet and lost 50 lbs, so I figure that probably allowed me to take off another few pounds of lead. :idk: Anyway I'm down to 8 pounds of lead now.

Warm Water (resort) Diving:

I use AL-80's with the same SS BP/W and 4 lbs of lead with a tee shirt. Works fine.

My LDS and local boats have had no problems with the HP fills, and I usually run out of time before I run out of air. I LOVE having the extra 20 CUFT of air just in case, but with a larger tank you have to be careful not to exceed NDL.
 
I want to get a new tank but there is so much to choose from im not really sure what tank best fits me. I am diving an AL80 right now that I borrowed from my father. It does work fine and I guess I could get one just like it but looking around I have many options I never considered. Aluminum or steel, HP or LP, yoke or DIN. I have a DIN 1st stage with a yoke adapter so I could use a DIN valve but what is better about a DIN valve over a yoke. I also just started drysuit diving and would like to shed a few pounds so mabey a steel tank would be a good idea. If I got a HP tank could I get fills higher than 3000PSI? My LDS only had AL80 with yoke valves with the plug you can pull out to make it a DIN valve in stock. So when I asked him all these questions he kept pointing me in that direction. Not to say he is wrong but I am not sure if he was just trying to tell me what I wanted to hear or if he was telling me the truth. Any opinions?


  • Get a steel tank. If you don't abuse it, you can give it to your grandkids in your will.
  • Unless you have a really high pressure fill station available, go with a LP (Low Pressure) steel tank. A complete fill is 2640PSI, which means that anybody who can fill an Al tank can give you a great fill on yours. Some shops never bank enough pressure for HP and even when they do , they don't always have that much pressure available because they only fill the banks at night (cheaper electricity).
  • Get it with a convertible yoke-<>din valve (it's just a plug that unscrews). That way you can use whatever you want.
  • Size really depends on you. If you run out of gas before no-deco time or are cutting your buddy's dives short, you might want a little bigger tank. Note that if you switch to a drysuit, you'll probably use a little more air, so you might want a slightly larger tank.
Terry
 
I'm a steel tank guy but its mainly to get weight off the belt and onto my back. I had to dispose of the 2 recall AL80s I had for years and am looking for replacements 'cause they are relatively inexpensive compared to comparable steel tanks; and sometimes its the number of tanks that limits my diving and I hate limited diving. Since you don't have the heavy weight belt problem I'd suggest the AL80s until you develop a reason for steel or find one a a good price. If you look at used ALs, first find out what your LDS will fill. My tanks had current hydro and vis but the shop has a cutoff date on original hydro.

As for DIN vrs Yoke, since your reg is DIN get the DIN with the Yoke converter just in case.

Bob
------
YOU ONLY NEED TWO TOOLS IN LIFE - WD-40 AND DUCT TAPE. IF IT DOESN'T MOVE AND SHOULD, USE THE WD-40. IF IT SHOULDN'T MOVE AND DOES, USE THE DUCT TAPE.---------
 
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i did consider a steel tank so I could loose some weight when using my drysuit but I only dive dry for about 4 months. I live in TX and dive a 3MM wetsuit most of the time. Im only using 10LBS with a 3MM and an AL80. If I get a steel tank and use it in the summer with my 3MM I might only have 4-5LBS to drop if I had to. Would that be a problem?

In a simple word... no.

The tank, when full only hold around that much weight in air, so at the start of a dive, if you have 5 lbs you can ditch, you would be at zero... and zero does not sink.

No ditchable on the other hand, would mean you were really heavy at the start of the dive, and that might be an issue.

I vote steel... HP...look for deals before you buy though, as they can be had at low prices from time to time.
 
I'd suggest looking at a HP Steel 100. They are virtually the same size as an AL80. When low on air they are couple of pounds negative. Even in fresh water, you can trim out reel well, and frankly I can't imagine ever diving in fresh water warm enough that I would have some exposure protection on.

You can get it with a Pro valve which switches between a 200bar DIN and a regular yoke valve OR you can get it in a 300bar DIN. 200bar DIN only has 5 threads, where as a 300bar DIN has 7.

Since you have a DIN reg already, you can easily get either. HOWEVER if you have a 300bar DIN valve, a lot of folks can't borrow your tanks unless they have a DIN reg. This can be a good thing or a bad thing. Your choice.
 
DUI,

Perhaps someone else brought this up, so forgive me if I repeat it. Another consideration is your buddy's SAC, if you get a lot more tank (in cu ft) than you need, you may just be spending money or carrying more weight than you will use. I suggest trying to get a good old fashion steel 72. They are cheap, and you can usually sell it years later for the same amount you pay for it. If you want to step up from there, you can buy another one and double them, or go bigger. You'll probably want to keep "old faithful" as a backup or loaner.

In the meantime, look for an opportunity to borrow or rent a few different types....but most of us geezers started with a steel 72, went to an AL80 and came back to steel. I don't know where in TX you are, but if you are near Houston, PM me and I might be able to loan you a tank or two.

Couv
 
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DUI,

Perhaps someone else brought this up, so forgive me if I repeat it. Another consideration is your buddy's SAC, if you get a lot more tank (in cu ft) than you need, you may just be spending money or carrying more weight than you will use. I suggest trying to get a good old fashion steel 72. They are cheap, and you can usually sell it years later for the same amount you pay for it. If you want to step up from there, you can buy another one and double them, or go bigger. You'll probably want to keep "old faithful" as a backup or loaner.

In the meantime, look for an opportunity to borrow or rent a few different types....but most of us geezers started with a steel 72, went to an AL80 and came back to steel. I don't know where in TX you are, but if you are near Houston, PM me and I might be able to loan you a tank or two.

Couv


You new divers are always suggesting some new fangled invention... steel 72's :shakehead:...

How about a nice shiny new, state of the art HP steel 100, that you found on sale so it cost around the price of an AL80...lighter...even with a 3,000 psi fill holds more gas...takes less lead.. I have Fabers FX series...as they are neutral when empty.

Disclaimer: Ok, I own several, but only use them for shore dives. My normal tanks are 117's...unless diving with the non-air users of south florida, and then it is 133's..

I use Al80's, only when someone makes me.. like on a trip.
 

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