New Point and Shoot!!!

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Two things would have greatly helped the wreck photos.

1. You need to get closer. That would reduce the amount of water column being lit up. It would also get you sharper photos. Consider a wide angle lens. They are the best investment you can make.

2. Diffusers for the internal flash are okay, but the best thing to do is get rid of visible light. I cover my internal flash with a piece of underexposed slide film. Infrared gets out, which is enough to set off the slave strobe. Inon makes a system called clear photo. It basically does the same thing. You can get the internal flash cover for about $20.

These are very good for a beginner. You are doing the right thing by asking for critique and advice.
 
Thanks for the advice. I have a dive on Wednesday so I can try out the changes. Will post a few shots as soon as I can. It will be nice to have some color in the shots. :D
 
Great to see you trying to create some solutions for your set-up!

I don't think you are getting the light from your strobe on your subject in these most recent shots. Most likely because you are too far away, but it could be an aiming issue, too.

If you look at the bottom image, you'll see that it does look like some light from your strobe hit the top part of the frame and it's more or less well exposed - which gives you a good guideline on how close to your subject you need to be to gain any benefit from using the strobe. Most strobes really don't offer you much help beyond 3-5 feet!

Getting your strobe away from your lens is a good thing, so the extended bar should be helpful as long as you aim your strobe correctly. Think of the light coming from your strobe as a cone and try to just paint the edge of your cone of light over your subject. This will keep the light you are adding to the scene from lighting up all of the particles in the water between your subject and your lens - thus really helping to elimate the "snow globe" effect that is so easy to get!

bobf (I think) did a great demonstration on learning to visualize the cone of light from your strobe - I think there's a link in the Sticky (follow the Pink Link from my sig), but I can't remember off the top of my head where, so you'll need to scroll through. HTH
 
Sounds like I have a lot of new ideas to try in the water. The weather here might not let me dive today. Some storms are rolling into the area most of the day. Anyway thanks for the information as always we have some great members that like to help!

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Storm keep us out of the water. We all had our gear on and were ready to go in but it was just to nasty. One cell after another for most of the day. Next week I will try again. :D
 
Sounds like my kind of luck... Last year we were on a liveaboard when a tropical storm chased us back into port after one day out, and then sat on us for the entire rest of the week:11:. I feel your pain... Woody
 
Great article! I just got my housing for the W90 and can't wait to use it in Belize. I was using an older Sony P&S housing with that same strobe and had some good luck with it. The tricky part is finding how much strobe to use.
I wish Sea & Sea has a lens conversion adapter for that housing. I have a w/a I can't use with the new housing now :(
 
Got to dive late yesterday and try out a few changes to the camera. I took over 200 pictures on 2 dives so I ended up with a few good ones. The changes made a big difference.
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Here are a few more. I did have a problem with the flash hitting the tank bands. Let me know if you have any more tips!!! Thanks again as I feel a little better about the flash. :D
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I have been reading your story. You are evolving somewhat like myself. I carried a Nikonos III for years and as well a huge honking Nikon FMII SLR in a huge Ikelite housing. The Nikonos was small and compact and could serve double duty, land, sea, air. The housed SLR was just a huge fuss by contrast. After taking thousands of slides with the rigs I retired them and sold the Nikonos (stupid--doh!!!!!!!!!!!) Anyone want a well used Ike housing for a Nikon FM series? Soooo, I began casting about for a digitial P&S that would be simple, compact, rugged like the Nikonos and the two I came up with were the Oly 770SW and Canon 570IS. I have housings for both and the Inon AD adapters for both and the Inon handle/bar and Inon DS2000 strobe (highly recommended) and the Inon 165AD macro, 105AD WA and 165AD FE super wide angle. Of the three lenses the only one I have used more than a few times is the Inon 165AD FE full frame fisheye. It is a HUGE success and performs well and makes a huge difference in the photos. I think YOU need one. Sorry, they are expensive but it turns ordinary into extraordinary. You can get right up in peoples face or right next to a wreck and still take the whole thing in. A single flash with diffuser will work for FILL but of course will not cover the entire 165 degree view. For full coverage you would need at least two strobes. BUT, a single strobe with diffuser can light a central subject and the light fades evenly away producing interesting and natural looking results.

I like your homemade arm too. What if you put a joint in it with a large stainless wingnut and a piece of nylon/rubber/leather/etc as a washer to allow it to swivel like an elbow?

Don't flood your camera again OK.

Inon AD series:

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Oly 770 and brother Canon 570IS:

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Size comparison:

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I release two screws and the Canon pops off and the Oly pops on with no other changes:

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Anyways, looking at your pics, you could use the Inon lenses but they are a big investment, can be used on some but not all various cameras so future purchases have to keep that in mind.

I have lot's of SVHS video, nope, sold that too. Now I take better video with the Canon 570. It is weird, I went from a huge housed video camera that never really did well to the little Canon that can.

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You are shooting in turbid and low viz water, you need to be able to get closer, that is what I see mostly in your pics. You are having to back off to get the shot. Obviously your not into macro, good, neither am I and if that is true, then your going to have to go wide. If that camera and housing will not accept wet mount lenses then you will have to move to one that will to get what you want. Good luck with your excellent adventure.

N
 
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