The whole point of shooting video at higher than normal (30 fps) is that when the footage is played back at regular speed (30 fps) it looks slowed down and has more motion detail. No one on this thread claimed there was a need to playback at 60 or any other high frame rates.
You are supposed to show the footage as it occurred. Occasional slow downs to show critter behaviour can be interesting showing everything at half speed is just plain weird and boring.
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The other issue is also due to the CMOS rollng shutter, the slower the shutter speed the more rolling shutter effect you will have. If the camera is on an unstable mount at 30p this will give the video that nausiating wobble to it. This is one of the main reasons for the better results in 60p, faster shutter speeds so the slowest shutter speed in 60p will have half the rolling shutter effect of 30p.
I personaly like 60p playback on my tv or computer but as most of my videos end up being shown in 30p, by using the tray and smooth panning I can make 1080p30 work and get a better result then shooting in 60p as long as I am very smooth with the camera and panning motions.
Marty I have followed your gopro videos and forum posts elsewhere, no doubt you know how to operate this set up however a few comments may be helpful as you can't use a higher frame rate just to fight other issues in operating the camera.
The reason why most of the gopro video out there give seasickness is because the camera shakes and also is not operated properly. Shakes are created by the lack of sturdy trays, most of the people hold the camera by hand or on a pole or helmet, that is guarantee of sickness later and not the way to shoot underwater video, may be fun once but not in the long term
For what concerns the CMOS rolling stutter I have done several tests with other cameras where you can change the shutter speed and there is no difference as long as the shutter speed follows the rule of double the frame rate.
However I have to say that panning in underwater video is a rather uncommon thing to do, most times you have wide, medium and close shot as you approach the subject, panning really belongs more to topside video
There are some more sturdy trays for example the ultralight with two handles that should give a much more stable feel to the rig, the SRP you have also look a very good choice although am not totally sure about the design with the camera ahead of you
If the light is very bright the shutter speed of the cam will be raised, this will give it more of the stuttering effect due to no motion blur going on with just a series of fast shutter images at 30p that tend to lack smooth motion. You need some motion blurring going on to blend each frame together smoothly but too much will make everything a blur. This bright light fast shutter will be the same in 60p and 30p at such light levels. In that case 60p playback will be smoothest and converting to 30p will give the same results as the video shot in 30p because the shutter speed were most likely the same in both modes in bright light. You can slow motion the 60p footage to 50% speed and improve motion or need to use a filter to reduce light to slow the shutter speed in very bright light. Rarely an issue underwater of having too much light though lol.
That is correct but as you point out you never have too much light, when you do you can apply a neutral density filter and take it down a few fstop if you are at the surface, a filter indeed takes 1 f-stop away and sorts things out in most cases
Ultimately I would shoot between 1080p30 and 1080p60 HOWEVER the human eye is more sensitive to number of pixels and can easily interpolate frames. So if you shoot your video properly without jerky movements, don't pan like you were outside water, have good buoyancy, and have also an idea of some basic video rules, the choice between 720p60 and 1080p30 is an easy one
If instead you are going on a bike and putting your gopro on an helmet and want to do some action clip slow down then 720p60 may be an idea