Need advice on building a cascade fill panel

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My two cents from a little guy with a small system.

I have a compressor with 3 bank bottles (the bank is primarily used to refill my cylinders late at night without havinig to run the compressor).

Mount a large sheet of 1/2-inch plywood to the wall (screwed into the wall studs) - it facilitates securely mounting all of the components and tubing.

All tubing must be secured at regular intervals with brackets to prevent the tubing from becoming a whip should a connection fail.

Forget using Parker quick disconnect couplings, they are always sources of leaks.

My panel revolves around a 7-port manifold. The compressor feeds into the manifold via a one-way valve.

From the manifold block, I have two fill whips and 3 lines (1 line to each of my 3 bank bottles, with a high-pressure valves between the lines and the manifold). The 7th port is occupied by a large-faced pressure gauge.

Clockwise from the left:
Line in with one-way check valve
Pressure gauge
3 lines to bank bottles with line valves (top 3 lines)
Fill whip (right side)
Fill whip (bottom line)
I have since replaced the 3 lines valves shown in the photo below with more appropriate Sherwood line valves.

3832.jpg
 
I have since replaced the 3 lines valves shown in the photo below with more appropriate Sherwood line valves.

Those 1/4 turn valves make excellent whip isolators for air and nitrox < 40%.
 
Those 1/4 turn valves make excellent whip isolators for air and nitrox < 40%.

We use a lot of ball valves on saturation systems. I have found that the good ones are very reliable in the 3000 PSI range but much more problematic at 5-6000 PSI. Most of them are on high-Helium mixes so air/Nitrox may be better.
 
OK
See if this explains anything. If worse comes to worse, I'm in Key West, not that far from Hollywood.View attachment 171868All tubing is 1/4" 316L .049 wall made up with Swagelok compression fittings. Swagelok makes the best tubing bender. Get the 1/4" tube bender with the blue handles and the rollers on the bender dies. They will prevent crimping. It's about 3 times as expensive as the cheapie from Grainger, but it's awesome.

Those are not check valves above the bottom tees, but the back side of the sherwood panel mount line valves.

OK, Im looking at Swagelok web site... I guess you used branch tees for the gauges & valves.... if not which specific tee did you use? I get a quote of around 32.00 each....

where did you get your gauges?
 
OK

OK, Im looking at Swagelok web site... I guess you used branch tees for the gauges & valves.... if not which specific tee did you use? I get a quote of around 32.00 each....

where did you get your gauges?
I built these the first time in 1998, and they were the most expensive available, at 12-14 bucks for the branch tees. They were as good when I rebuilt the panel in 2010 as they had been 12 years earlier. The gauges are class 1, bought them from a stocking dealer online in Ocala. I am not happy with the quality of the class 1 gauges. I'll go with Wika next time.

call me anytime, 281-300-4748 with questions.
 
Hi guys. Can't afford $2700 to $3500 for a fill panel.

Can anyone help design a 4 bank cascade panel.

& recommend a place to get HP fittings.


I have 12, 6000 PSI cylinders

thanks
Where did you purchase your cascade tanks?
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/teric/

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