Naive Regulator Question (Atomic Z3)

[BubbleBubble7]

I've had an Atomic Z3 for about 1 year/100 dives. I've been neurotic about babying/caring for my gear, including my regulator. At the one year mark I took this reg in for inspection (my understanding is that I actually could've waited two years for the Atomic, but chose to get it checked now as I have a big trip coming up).

I was told my regulator failed inspection. Apparently the first stage isn't sealing properly and the PSI is climbing well past the 140 shut off range.

I'm having this taken care of, but I'm a little unnerved. In my mind, I purchased a reliable product and have been meticulous about care and it's failing. Furthermore, it's not my vacuum cleaner that's failing, it's my lifeline.

I'm wondering if anyone here can shed any light on whether 1.) I am overreacting 2.) I have inadvertently done anything to cause this problem (or could've done something to prevent it) 3.) I can trust my regulator moving forward.

Thanks!

 

[RyanT]

Although Atomic advertises 2 years/300 dive service, the reality is that 100 dives in a year means your regulator has seen a good bit of use. It should still be holding its intermediate pressure (IP), but it is a mechanical device and that means sometimes components fail before the average for their lifespan. So what you're seeing is not terribly surprising. You want to have this fixed, but also understand that a regulator not holding its IP doesn't mean that you are in imminent danger from a reg suddenly failing to deliver gas on a dive. Just have it serviced and dive on!

 

[Scared Silly]

Did the tech give you anymore details than what you wrote? For instance, the acceptable range is between 125-145psi. With no more than 5psi of drift before lockup. That is after a breath the pressure will increase then stop, say at 136psi. If after 5 min the pressure is no more than 141psi the reg is fine.

My suggestion is buy a Compact IP Gauge then you can monitor the health of your reg

As for what you might or might not have done. The biggest issue for most is not soaking long enough and not leaving out long enough to fully dry. Also remember that Atomic regs have a seat saver on the second stage. So when not pressurized there is an open pathway directly to the first stage. So when soaking make sure the first stage is above the second stage otherwise water can get into the first stage HP chamber.

 

[BoltSnap]

My Atomic regulators survive 5 years without service with extensive use no problems at all.

 

[Caveeagle]

My Atomic regulators survive 5 years without service with extensive use no problems at all.

As divers we tend to fear the random nature of mechanical failures, and few really understand concepts like standard deviation and difference beteeen causation and correlation.

One HP seat may last 6 months, another may survive 10 years. I would say that I would bet my life of the likelihood that a spontaneous failure is far more likely on the older of the two.

 

[lexvil]

I've had an Atomic Z3 for about 1 year/100 dives. I've been neurotic about babying/caring for my gear, including my regulator. At the one year mark I took this reg in for inspection (my understanding is that I actually could've waited two years for the Atomic, but chose to get it checked now as I have a big trip coming up).

I was told my regulator failed inspection. Apparently the first stage isn't sealing properly and the PSI is climbing well past the 140 shut off range.

I'm having this taken care of, but I'm a little unnerved. In my mind, I purchased a reliable product and have been meticulous about care and it's failing. Furthermore, it's not my vacuum cleaner that's failing, it's my lifeline.

I'm wondering if anyone here can shed any light on whether 1.) I am overreacting 2.) I have inadvertently done anything to cause this problem (or could've done something to prevent it) 3.) I can trust my regulator moving forward.

Thanks!

I think you may be over reacting but it is easy to keep track of the IP with a low cost gauge. It is also possible that you over cared for it and did manage to get something inside the first stage by soaking wrong (for an Atomic) but it’s also possible that there is nothing wrong. Why not check it yourself with an IP gauge and see if it creeps to much before lock up, if it does creep then contact Atomic directly and tell them it failed, they may offer to fix it.

I usually set my IP in the 135 range but I go by lock up and if I have one lock solid at 150 I dive it. It has been said here before that rinsing an Atomic is a little different, don’t just pull it off of the tank put the dust cap on and toss it in a rinse tank. Search the site for Atomic care procedures, it’s easy but different.

 

[markmud]

I think you may be over reacting but it is easy to keep track of the IP with a low cost gauge. It is also possible that you over cared for it and did manage to get something inside the first stage by soaking wrong (for an Atomic) but it’s also possible that there is nothing wrong. Why not check it yourself with an IP gauge and see if it creeps to much before lock up, if it does creep then contact Atomic directly and tell them it failed, they may offer to fix it.

I usually set my IP in the 135 range but I go by lock up and if I have one lock solid at 150 I dive it. It has been said here before that rinsing an Atomic is a little different, don’t just pull it off of the tank put the dust cap on and toss it in a rinse tank. Search the site for Atomic care procedures, it’s easy but different.

Hello OP,

I think the advice you are receiving here is great. I agree with it.

However, I never soak or rinse my regs without pressure. That is, they are always hooked-up to a tank with the tank valve open when they are soaked, no matter what the brand. Also, I douse my first stage with fresh water before switching tanks when diving. A droplet of water will always infiltrate during the tank-change process, it is better that that droplet is fresh water and not salt water.

Engineers on this board have written about "infant mortality" issues with new parts, improperly lubed parts, or improperly torqued parts during the overhaul process. If it aint broke, don't fix it!

Regulators are designed to a "designed obsolescence" standard. If your regulator needs overhaul every 20 to 100 dives, you bought the wrong regulator. Or, it was inadvertently damaged during use.

We got my wife's Scuba Pro overhauled every year as was required to maintain the warranty. Twice she had leak issues because fittings were either not torqued properly, or the threads did not "lock-in" properly. The overhaul process can cause problems.

Again, if it aint broke, don't fix it (that is, if it is within its designed useful lifecycle).

A creeping IP needs repair.

markm