Trip Report NAI'A liveaboard, November 2022

[rmorgan]

NAI’A

Our 10-day NAI’A voyage was chartered through Backscatter’s travel arm, Underexposures, which did a great job for us. The trip was rescheduled from 2020. Of the 18 passengers, 18 were photographers or videographers. We may have been the only people who had not booked the original voyage; we got aboard due to a cancellation. The oldest passenger (and, I think, the one who did the most dives) was 82 (or 84?), and the average age was probably 50s and 60s. All divers were competent.

NAI’A is a well-regarded steel-hulled, expedition-capable liveaboard ship which was a literal rust bucket when its potential was recognized by the man who still owns it 30 years ago. The amount of work done to make it what it is today is impressive, and is documented in a video which was shown on board. NAI’A has played an important role in opening Fiji to SCUBA. It is now, apparently, the only liveaboard in Fijian waters, which are, we were told, imperfectly charted. Its owner has identified and named many of the sites we dove, such as Cat’s Meow, UndeNAI’Able, E6 (named after the Ektachrome slide-film slide developing process), Rob’s Knob, and Rick’s Rocks, not to mention Mellow Yellow and Mount Mutiny. Not every reef is fabulous; Fiji was hit by a devastating storm in 2016, and we visited several sites which are recovering nicely but are not 100%. But many are utterly gorgeous, with soft corals dripping off bommie walls and nudibranchs around many corners, and hard corals cascading down slopes and filling every nook and cranny of reef tops at 5-25’.

NAI’A’s home port is Lautoka, close to the international airport in Nadi. The boat offers seven-, 10-, and 14-day voyages. Ours was 10 days, which allowed us to range as far as Gau Island, zig-zagging our way through the islands.

The dive routine: Coffee and toast at 5:30, first dive at 7:00, “second breakfast” at 8:30, dive at 10:00, lunch at 11:30-12:00, dive at 1-1:30, snack and presentation, dive at 4:00-4:30, dinner at 6:00-6:30, night dive at 7:30-7:45. Divers are not expected to stay with the guides, who of course are skilled at finding all the things. Two RIB skippers patrol the area, watching the bubbles, and will take people back to the ship as they surface. All dives are back-rolls off the skiffs, and negative entries are the norm, although 8-9 camera rigs complicated that. Dives of 65-80 minutes were not criticized.

We were well-briefed on what to bring and not, and it worked out fine. I do suggest bringing “ear beer,” several bathing suits, and at least one pair of socks to go in your booties. Because the boat was full of photographers, everyone seemed well-equipped. Although there are outlets (both Australian and US) in the cabins, no charging of anything (even devices) is permitted other than in the camera room and in the salon. Given recent liveaboard tragedies, no one balked at this.

The reefs are healthy, and (did I mention?) the soft corals are as advertised—gorgeous. As are the hard corals. We visited a reef manta feeding station and saw several animals come through; saw a massive black-blotched ray; and after a current-swept trip through the Nigali pass off Gau Island), saw a couple of dozen gray reef sharks on parade, both adult and juvenile (sharks were present a many, if not most, sites, but in low numbers). Others saw hammerheads, and folks on the boat saw frolicking pilot whales.

The cruise directors joined the crew when Fiji reopened in December 2021. Bel, from Brazil, and Mike, from Scotland, ran a tight operation while making sure that everything went smoothly. One of them briefs all the dives, and they rotate with two dive guides. I had a significant problem with my primary Apeks second stage, only to find that Mike is an equipment specialist certified in, among others, Apeks regulators. He identified what appeared to be an assembly problem; thereafter it was better than in the prior ~150 dives I’d used it.

The food was on a par with the best resorts we’ve visited, with all three meals prepared to order, from menu selections made the prior day. Beef and pork are sourced from New Zealand, bread is fresh-baked (from partially cooked frozen stock), and desserts were excellent. Portions were as small or large as passengers requested, and off-menu alternatives were available. Ana, who runs the dining room, is everywhere at the right moment, getting 20 meals to the right passengers at the right time three times a day. The chef and sou chef spent long days in a hot galley to make the magic happen.

Two non-diving, non-eating events deserve mention. Tuesdays are “Kava night,” when mats are put down on the dive deck and everyone gathers after dinner. Most of the crew join in singing traditional Fijian songs, and a few verses of “Sloop John B” as the evening progresses. Passengers are trained in the Kava ritual and offered the opportunity to join the crew in drinking the earthy national passion of Fiji, made from kava roots pounded into powder and then mixed with water. Some liked it fine, others didn’t, but it’s great fun, and the singing is great.

Fiji is not a tipping culture. NAI’A, like the resorts we visited, has a “Christmas Fund” with all contributions put in a locked box and then divided equally amongst all the crew. Contributions can be made in Fijian dollars (currently worth about 45 cents U.S.), U.S. currency. Payments to the boat for extras (extra wine, t-shirts) can be put on credit cards with a 2.5-3% surcharge.

We also visited the village of Somosomo, on Taveuni Island. NAI’A’s owner has a long-standing relationship with the people of this village, and we were told that NAI’A’s owners and guests have been instrumental in bringing water and electricity to the village. We were welcomed very warmly and spent several hours among the residents.

All divers were breathing Nitrox, and all tanks gauged within a couple of tenths of 32% oxygen. Tank fills were 2900-3000 psi. The skiffs have excellent ladders and are easy to board. Divers are expected to watch a crew member gauge their tanks a half-hour before the dive, and skiffs are fully loaded (dive and camera rigs) before boarding. The longest skiff ride was about 10 minutes; the shortest, two or three.

Regarding COVID: Proof of full vaccination was necessary to confirm the booking, and necessary to enter Fiji. A negative rapid-antigen test was necessary within 24 hours of boarding. Air purifiers are in use.

I did 43 dives on the trip, 12 through Ra Divers and 31 from NAI’A. Water temperature was 80-82F on all dives. The longest dive was 78 minutes, and the deepest was 105’. My buddy and I wore only rash guards over bathing suits and were comfortable throughout; most folks wore 3-mil wetsuits, and a few, 5-mil.

We were lucky to have the chance to dive with NAI’A and hope to do it again.

some images and a couple of videos are posted here. Most of the stills were made using an OM-1 in a Nauticam housing; some of the stills and all of the videos were made with an iPhone 14 Pro Max in a DiveVolk housing, which I unreservedly recommend.

 

[Lorenzoid]

Great report, and brings back memories. They treat you like family. It was the nicest liveaboard I have done, and I'm not so sure I'll ever have the ability to do one like that again.

 

[Hoag]

I agree with the above statements. I did a trip on the Nai'a several years ago and loved it.

 

[staggsSevin]

Thanks for the report, I put this one on my list after our trip to Taveuni this past May.

 

[drrich2]

Great report. Looks like an eye-popping photo gallery! A few follow up questions...

NAI’A has played an important role in opening Fiji to SCUBA. It is now, apparently, the only liveaboard in Fijian waters

Then your report is all the more important.

Which brings up the question as to whether a liveaboard offers a strong advantage over land-based alternatives for recreational diving. In some locations, such as Belize, the consensus appears to be yes, but in some others, such as the Caymans, that's been argued.

All dives are back-rolls off the skiffs, and negative entries are the norm

Is the diving mainly into current? Do you deal with current much at depth? I ask because I associate negative entries with current and the desire to avoid separation.

Divers are not expected to stay with the guides, who of course are skilled at finding all the things.

This is all the more interesting with the negative entry thing. I also associate negative entries with a desire to keep the group together.

One of them briefs all the dives, and they rotate with two dive guides.

So how many dive guides go in the water with the 18 of you, in total?

Fiji is not a tipping culture. NAI’A, like the resorts we visited, has a “Christmas Fund” with all contributions put in a locked box and then divided equally amongst all the crew.

Okay, I suspect the typical U.S.-based diver is going to perceive that as 'It isn't, but it is,' and wonder what middle-of-the-road, not too stingy/not throwing money away amount needs to go into the Christmas Fund so as to be decent and honorable? Any idea what the mainstream practice is?

I did 43 dives on the trip, 12 through Ra Divers and 31 from NAI’A.

Many divers do land-based or a liveaboard, not both. Care to contrast your experiences of the two? Got a favorite, or what you think would appeal more to most?

A negative rapid-antigen test was necessary within 24 hours of boarding.

This remains a barrier for some. I'm pro-vaccination, and I can understand the thinking, but it still puts U.S.-based divers in the position of not knowing whether their trip will actually happen until way late.

How late? That raises another question. What flight itinerary got you from Ohio to Fiji and back? How many flights, how long, etc...?

I'm wondering whether you were when you took that rapid antigen test, since had it been positive, you might've been stuck there. And what would've happened then?

Have you been on any trips to Indonesia, the Philippines or Red Sea? If so, care to contrast the value of a Fiji trip, and why one might prefer it?

Thanks. Never been to Fiji though I hear good things. Curious how it stacks up against the competition. Glad to hear there's a good liveaboard option.

 

[rmorgan]

Great report, and brings back memories. They treat you like family. It was the nicest liveaboard I have done, and I'm not so sure I'll ever have the ability to do one like that again.

This was our first liveaboard--a bit of a test run for several more in the next couple of years. Several people with us on NAI'A have extensive liveaboard experience and uniformly said that NAI'A was at the top of their list; two couples were back for a second time, and one guy was back for his third trip. Glad to give you a lane to stroll, Lorenzoid!

 

[rmorgan]

Which brings up the question as to whether a liveaboard offers a strong advantage over land-based alternatives for recreational diving. In some locations, such as Belize, the consensus appears to be yes, but in some others, such as the Caymans, that's been argued.

I've not had any interest so far in a Caribbean liveaboard, especially when I see them parked for a few days off an island we're staying on. Here, though, the boat gives a very different experience. First, the dive sites are a considerable distance from the resort, and so it's well over an hour roundtrip. Jbclj's Volivoli trip report from a few months back underscores the concern--only a few days when the boats could make it out to the best sites. Aboard NAI'A, all sites are a few minutes away. Second, NAI'A, in particular, is a big part of diving history in Fiji; the owner discovered many of the sites on the itinerary, including a lot of those dived from resorts. Third, there are considerable differences in the areas. The Bligh Waters are spectacular, but very different from, e.g., Nigali Pass off Gau Island (reef mantas, sharkier waters, bigger barracuda schools). When we embarked, the cruise director said, "when you're not diving, you're eating. When you're not eating, you're diving." While the combination of resort and boat was fabulous, the boat wins on points here.

Is the diving mainly into current? Do you deal with current much at depth? I ask because I associate negative entries with current and the desire to avoid separation.

I'd say we dealt with significant current on maybe 20% of the dives; however, the floor is pretty routinely 65-90', and of course it's hard to tell what conditions are going to be at depth. We had maybe five dives where the current was of the let-go-and-enjoy-the-ride variety, which were great because when you surfaced, the RIB was no more than a couple of minutes away.

Reef hooks (and DSMBs) are required (or maybe the reef hooks are only recommended). We did not use either, but often used a (steel) muck stick to hold position, by finding a good hole to stick it several inches into. We saw a couple of aluminum pointers which were bent into nice arcs, but the steel ones are strong enough to provide a solid hold.

A lot of the divers didn't do negative entries because they hung around the stern of the RIB to collect their cameras, while some of us rolled in with the cameras and went straight down; but either way, everyone rolled in at the same time, on the RIB skippers' count. I enjoyed not having to circle up on the surface.

Good

This is all the more interesting with the negative entry thing. I also associate negative entries with a desire to keep the group together.

So how many dive guides go in the water with the 18 of you, in total?

In general, everyone met at the bottom and then either followed the guide or went their way. (One guy, an exquisite photographer, went his own way on a number of dives.) The dives were well-briefed, and imagine trying to herd a eight or 10 underwater photographers in one gaggle! But we did hear a number of comments about groups including people with 10-20 dives, or who hadn't dived for years, requiring more supervision.

There was a handful of sites where we were directed to stay behind the guide so she or he could make decisions based on the conditions, and the briefings on these were excellent.

As to the number of guides? Two skiffs, one guide for each. Many sites have multiple attractions, and the skiffs would alternate; where that wasn't in the cards, one skiff would hold back for a few minutes to let the first group get a head start. I think we ran into the other group two or three times.

Okay, I suspect the typical U.S.-based diver is going to perceive that as 'It isn't, but it is,' and wonder what middle-of-the-road, not too stingy/not throwing money away amount needs to go into the Christmas Fund so as to be decent and honorable? Any idea what the mainstream practice is?

I agree, it's not completely comfortable. On NAI'A, we talked to the cruise directors and got a general idea of what they hoped we'd do, which was 5-10% (the 10-day itineraries are $6500 per person). Others did less, and some may have done more. At Volivoli and First Landing, I went with what folks here have said over the years; however, I don't remember what we left in the box there, but I think it was about $50 FJD per day; the exchange rate was approximately one FJD to two USD. (By the way--the box is locked, and we were told that after a litter of divers leaves, the box is given to the Captain, who transfers the contents to a shore-based repository until the end of the year, when every member of the crew and staff receives an equal share of what came in.)

Many divers do land-based or a liveaboard, not both. Care to contrast your experiences of the two? Got a favorite, or what you think would appeal more to most?

We really liked having the resort week to bubble the cobwebs away, get accustomed to the conditions, get the cameras in shape, and support the local economy. As between the two--setting aside cost and human factors, NAI'A is the clear winner diving-wise. If I were traveling with a snorkeler or youngster, as I know you sometimes do, the resort certainly is a more attractive option. Similarly, for less experienced divers, the resort experience includes more dive guides and giant-stride-off-the-transom boats. (I didn't mention in the Volivoli review; while the house reef at Volivoli wasn't appealing, many non-divers or day-off-divers were taken 10-30 minutes from the resort by boat for snorkeling, and everyone we talked to raved about what they saw--we were a little jealous.)

This remains a barrier for some. I'm pro-vaccination, and I can understand the thinking, but it still puts U.S.-based divers in the position of not knowing whether their trip will actually happen until way late.

How late? That raises another question. What flight itinerary got you from Ohio to Fiji and back? How many flights, how long, etc...?

I'm wondering whether you were when you took that rapid antigen test, since had it been positive, you might've been stuck there. And what would've happened then?

Have you been on any trips to Indonesia, the Philippines or Red Sea? If so, care to contrast the value of a Fiji trip, and why one might prefer it?

Thanks. Never been to Fiji though I hear good things. Curious how it stacks up against the competition. Glad to hear there's a good liveaboard option.

First, the travel. CVG to DFW, to LAX, to NAD. Because Fiji Airways is a codeshare for American, we checked our bags at CVG and picked them up on the belt in Fiji about 19 hours later. It has to be the easiest logistics of any of the major dive destinations. (I'm working right now on logistics to PNG, where we are headed in May (Walindi, followed by M//V Oceania). Much more complicated, and a much longer trip.)

We've yet to dive anywhere else in Oceania except for Heron Island on the Great Barrier Reef, in 2012. We did meet several people on this trip who had done liveaboards on the GBR, and they liked the experience. As to preferring Fiji over other Coral Triangle-ish destinations? When we made the plans, I reasoned that while Fiji wasn't R4 or PNG, it was a great place to start because even if the diving wasn't the best, the travel was the easiest. Plus, NAI'I's reputation was very appealing, and the availability of two spots on the boat tipped the balance for us. As it turned out, the diving was outstanding; if PNG or Raja are even better, all to the good. (I should note that my partner saw two pygmy seahorses, which she continues to lord over me).

Ahh, the Covid. An obviously-imperfect procedure, at best. As requested, we did the tests on the morning of embarkation and emailed a picture of the tests, with our First Landing key, to NAI'A's base. Given that people had come in from, at least, Texas, Vancouver, California (north and south), Colorado, and Ohio, that test obviously doesn't mean much. As far as what would've happened if we'd tested positive . . . I don't know, but I suspect my trip report would have reported a longer stay at First Landing.

As always, Dr. Rich, excellent and thoughtful questions. Thanks for taking the time. I hope you enjoy the pictures!


--Rick

 

[drrich2]

First, the travel. CVG to DFW, to LAX, to NAD. Because Fiji Airways is a codeshare for American, we checked our bags at CVG and picked them up on the belt in Fiji about 19 hours later. It has to be the easiest logistics of any of the major dive destinations. (I'm working right now on logistics to PNG, where we are headed in May (Walindi, followed by M//V Oceania). Much more complicated, and a much longer trip.)

Thanks for the extra info.! I imagine some people interested in Fiji will want to compare it to alternatives.

Getting to Raja Ampat from Nashville, TN, was something like this: nearly 24 hours from Nashville Airport to DFW to Tokyo to Jakarta, spend the night at FM7 Hotel, fly to Sorong on Batik Air (domestic Indonesian flight), overnight at Swiss-Belhotel, then board liveaboard.

If you aimed to reach Fiji the day before your liveaboard departed, so as to let your baggage catch up with you in case of delays (or give yourself extra buffer time in case of flight delays/reschedules for you!), it sounds like you'd take at least a day off travel time there vs. Raja Ampat. One less hotel stay going, and maybe coming home?

Good luck with PNG; I see way fewer trip reports for it, and got the impression it can be more involved to get to than Raja Ampat.

 

[rmorgan]

If you aimed to reach Fiji the day before your liveaboard departed, so as to let your baggage catch up with you in case of delays (or give yourself extra buffer time in case of flight delays/reschedules for you!), it sounds like you'd take at least a day off travel time there vs. Raja Ampat. One less hotel stay going, and maybe coming home?

Agreed. I think everyone on the boat arrived in Fiji the morning before (Friday morning arrival for Saturday noon departure), except us. And most flew out the night we disembarked. The Fiji Airways flights make a huge difference. For PNG, we have to go through either Jakarta or Brisbane, so I'm building in a couple of days in Australia on each end.

 

[JaySSSS]

Thanks for the report. It is great to hear the Nai'a is still going strong. We did the Nai'a back on the cruise spanning new years 1997, and loved it. We loved it so much, we named our daughter Naia (OK, that wasn't the only reason we named her that, but we did love the name). Fast forward to 2022. We were booked on the Socorro Agressor last December, and had our cruise canceled 3 days before departure. (Lots of posts out there about this elsewhere) After a family discussion, we decided to book the Nai'a in June as a graduation gift for our daughter. We're really looking forward to this trip!

Any recommendations for a hotel for a day on either side of the cruise? Unfortunately, I just started a new job in January, and our time to spend land-based will be very limited, so we'll just be looking at a night or two on both ends of the cruise.