My GoPro 3D setup

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I like having both strobe arms to hold onto in my rig. It kind of stabilizes my swimming and the image. On the surface I just hold onto it with my left hand either trailing or resting on my body. With the lanyard I can let go of it if I need both hands for something. Of course, in kelp everything gets snagged occasionally, but it hasn't been a big problem. The rig is long, and sturdy, enough I've even used it as a walking stick.
 
Been quietly following this thread.. good job with the rig so far! It seemed to do fairly well in the cave/cavern, but not much effect outside. How many lumens do you think it would take to effectively light stuff up in open water? Still frustrated that my gopro loses so much color at depth, but if I use a flashlight to light stuff up it just makes a crazy hotspot


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Been quietly following this thread.. good job with the rig so far! It seemed to do fairly well in the cave/cavern, but not much effect outside. How many lumens do you think it would take to effectively light stuff up in open water? Still frustrated that my gopro loses so much color at depth, but if I use a flashlight to light stuff up it just makes a crazy hotspot


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I'll be honest with you, I couldn't begin to tell you. I am not the OP, and don't have enough experience with lights to give you any kind of intelligent answer. I believe 3D can give you a much better idea, as it appears he has previous OW filming experience. BTW, the water outside the cavern was only a few feet deep and being lit up by the blistering Florida sun, so I can't imagine what you would need to futher illuminate that.
 
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My goal is to uniformly light up foreground objects (2-4 feet) & use ambient light for distant objects. I'm doing 3D so need to compose images with some obvious "depth" to them. I'm willing to tinker with up to 4 of these DRIS lights before I give up and think about "real" video lights. Green water is where I dive, so lighting my subject so it/he/she stands out from the background, and isn't silhouetted, is a higher priority than color correction. I think a diffuser or reflector removal will work with the DRIS lights---time will tell.

The rig I'm using started as a platform for a pair Nikonos V cameras. If you dig into my profile you can find another thread about my Nikonos setups and some 3D pictures in my gallery.

My second light is waiting for me at home...gotta go.
 
Been quietly following this thread.. good job with the rig so far! It seemed to do fairly well in the cave/cavern, but not much effect outside. How many lumens do you think it would take to effectively light stuff up in open water? Still frustrated that my gopro loses so much color at depth, but if I use a flashlight to light stuff up it just makes a crazy hotspot


Sent from my HTC One X using Tapatalk

For Daylight benefit in video you need at least 2x 1200 lumen video lights or for best results maybe 2x 4000 lumens with a very wide angle with a soft drop off. This will cost you well into the the thousands of dollars and even 2 Sola 4000's costing $3200 is only going to help you to a distance of about 2 meters from the light source on a daylight dive. These same lights will light up a cave to what seems to be a blinding level and you wouldnt need anywhere near the full 4000 lumens for night diving.

The sun is a pretty powerful light and starts to loose red at 4m so unless you have your own Sun attached to your rig then it wont give you any more light then the sun does. A dive light in daytime use is only to improve on what the sun can do and if the sun can only give you good colours to maybe 3-5m no portable light source will get anywhere near that. In a dark environment it works a little different because there is no ambient light for your light to compete against, even though you still get the same output you will get colours to a larger distance. This is because in open water daylight the sun is so powerful that it penetrates to 100m or so of water but only the blues get to that depth.

These blue rays from the sun are still more powerful then your torch is to a certain distance and why the blues will dominate your light source from a meter or so distance at any greater depth.

I am testing out a few filters for the GoPro atm and its quite amazing at the benefit you can get from a filter at recreational dive depths. A good filter like those from URPro will hold up pretty well down to 25m or so in good light and a gopro on its own struggles from 3m. Ive used my lights with filters combined and the results are surprisingly useful to help add some colour outside of the lights reach. A premium filter will cost about $80 and premium lights $3000+ both have pluses and minuses but for what you get for the $80 compared to the $3000+ its hard to justify spending anywhere near that amount on lights.

The main reason I don't use the 3D much is because I haven't found a good way to attach the URPpro filter to this yet, URPro and Magic filters are the only 2 brands worth touching IMHO and the URPro range does tend to work better at deeper depths then those by magic. They are more expensive then the basic cheapo $5 ebay red filters but anyone willing to spend $100s on lights should have a play with a good quality filter too. The LED lights these days do work better with a filter too then the old HID's did, you may need to adjust the wb in post at times but results can be much better combining both or just using a filter on its own for daylight open water dives shallower then 25m.

I will post some tests later on with a few filter options for the gopro once I get my hands on all the decent options to compare against eachother.

One of my friends just got one of these lights to try out I want to see his results with the GoPro and his Nikon camera. Wholesale Light the first brand ARCHON diving video light diving torch dive light 10000 lumens, $665.36-683.73/Piece | DHgate Its a cheap chinese light not sure if its an actual 10,000 lumens but he said the beam looks very even and wide with a very smooth drop off. I will share some of his video tests once he puts some up.

I dont know how long it will last and or if it will cause another Tsunami when it goes bang underwater lol, but even if its half the rated output with a good beam it should be an interesting light. Minus the safety issue of high powered lithium batteries being held in your hand underwater with all chinese 100% safety certification lol.
 
With the chinese stuff if its cheap enough its worth a try but dont spend too much money and allow for the risk you may get burned. The premium brands like light and motion you are guaranteed to get what you pay for and it will work as good as anything out there.

Here is some more info on the light my friend bought, he does have a light fetish and so has most of them plus he has a dive shop so he always gets new ones to try out.

This is 9000 lumens I think, not 10,000. Build is OK but no safety vent valve. My i-torch video pro 4 or any models using fat 5900 mAh lit-ion has safety vent valve. I wonder why Sola does not install such important vent valve. This is for when light flooded. I seen exploding lit-ion and its damn scarry.

The Archon uses 12 x 18650 LitIon driven to 25Volt.
2 x 6 banks. So 2 x 18650 is parallel and 6 banks are managed by special controller board.
The 2 x 18650 in parallel is not a perfect design. They should use 12 x 18650 controller board so that each battery is a stand alone when discharging or charged.

The color is very very nice, warm. I think 3,700K or something. The beam spread is ridiculously wide angle and extrememly smoooooooth, at I think 165 degrees at least, not 120* as they claimed. The light is very bright and Sola 2000 seems like nothing compared to it.

My staff took it diving at bad viz last Saturday and he said, he was so glared by the reflection of sands kicked by newbie diver under training and the kind of small particles in water the dive site is famous for. So he was actually so glared some 30cm ahead of the torch and he cant see the reef well.........ha ha ha, what a lousy viz.

Overall it is OK. The switching ON/OFF is spin type........not nice for something this big.
Mine can't do low-medium-high beam, only high. Manufacturer said it can do 3 stage brightness.......****ing liars hahaha. All these Chinese manufacturers can do good machining and so on but they lack the know how of how dive lights or video light should be. There is no user manual in the box, in fact they placed brochures of their other lights.......hahaha, what a prick. I did a lot of due diligence before buying the light though, but still real world testing is best.

So there is limits to how bright something can get and with lots of particles in the water as the guy had on the test if it blinds the person the camera wont see much I think :D Its the big trick with daytime underwater video, I think its best to have filters and lights as an option and learn which is best used how.

If you haven't got the budget for real good lights and the cheaper ones aren't giving you what you want for daytime use just stick to using filters which do give much more value for your dollar I think. Lighting for night time and caves or wrecks doesnt need too many lumens and if you have too much you will scare off all the fish anyway. You can get away with the lower end models like my sola 500s or something equivelant.

I also have a pair of TUSA 300 lights but these are not that wide and output is a bit low. They are great as a dive light but for video not so much, I have used these a few times paired with my Solas to project further into the distance which works ok but the narrow beam even though they are claimed to be wide just produces a circle in the distance. Trying to diffuse them works well on land but once they get underwater with a diffuser the reduced output makes them fairly useless for video use.

Below is a pic of my setup with both sets of lights and tray, mostly I just use the Sola's on their own and use the TUSA lights as my own backup lights.

trayandlights.jpg
 
Well, after a successful edit of this video, but two unsuccessful uploads, I am just going to post the whole vid. Do yourself a favor and skip to 4:00. The diffusers made a big difference (believe it or not) but just couldn't combat the inherent characteristics of the torches.
GOPR0011 - YouTube

Jmneill, I've been to Ginnie and it's a great place, I didn't cave dive but freediving was plenty of fun. I lived in south Florida for 3 years, just a 2 minutes drive to the closest charter dive boat, can't wait to move back one day.

This link bellow has an article by some folks in north/central Florida about using the GoPro for cave diving. There are some videos linked on the document that are worth checking out. They use some iTorch Video Pro's (which are relatively cheap when it comes to video lights) and HID lights - the quality seems great.

http://www.safecavediving.com/documents/NACD Tec Bulletin Rev 9.1 07-29-2012.pdf
 
Jmneill, I've been to Ginnie and it's a great place, I didn't cave dive but freediving was plenty of fun. I lived in south Florida for 3 years, just a 2 minutes drive to the closest charter dive boat, can't wait to move back one day.

This link bellow has an article by some folks in north/central Florida about using the GoPro for cave diving. There are some videos linked on the document that are worth checking out. They use some iTorch Video Pro's (which are relatively cheap when it comes to video lights) and HID lights - the quality seems great.

http://www.safecavediving.com/documents/NACD Tec Bulletin Rev 9.1 07-29-2012.pdf

Thanks toozler. I'm at work, but will dig into this tonight. I'm looking forward to getting a decent setup for the cave / cavern environment.
 
Have the house to myself so thought I'd try my internal diffuser idea and see whether a little water in the tub could illustrate the beam spread without having to go to Monterey.

First, here's a side-by-side comparison of the new light delivered yesterday and the external diffuser I dove with Sunday. Clearly, water's higher index of refraction rendered the external diffuser useless.

External-diffuser-side-by-s.jpg


Next, I cut a piece of the same diffuser material into a small enough disk to fit inside the light. The beam angle widens though there's still a bit of a hot spot. Moving the diffuser inside the light preserves the spreading noted in my previous posts.

internal-diffuser-side-by-s.jpg


Here's a side by side comparison with the reflector removed. The beam angle doesn't change but the light is more uniform.

no-reflector-side-by-side.jpg


As an after-thought, just for completeness, I tried one of the external white diffusers I showed in post 11 (I think). Wow! The beam spread is nearly 180 degrees! The peak intensity is low but if you want to spread the light this is the way to go:

external-white-diffuser-sid.jpg


Here's a comparison of the internal options---no reflector, as delivered, and internal diffuser:

tub-comparison.jpg


Here's a comparison of the external options---external diffuser, as delivered, external white diffuser:

external-diffuser-tub-compa.jpg


---------- Post Merged at 10:15 PM ---------- Previous Post was at 10:12 PM ----------

Oh, here are the three diffusers I tried tonight:

diffuser-discs.jpg
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/perdix-ai/

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