My First Try at Photoshop Elements

[Windknot]

I like the higher contrasts, but that shows some of the limitations of "digital editing for beginners" of which I'm currently suffering, and of which you have shown one option (to add fake color). If I crank up the contrast too far, the seas behind the main subject white/bright out and you lose that "deep blue" feeling.

I've gotta start trying to add colors and deepen that whiteout.


Windknot

p.s. When I get home from work in the a.m., I'll post a step-by-step for the Mandrake/SeanDrake protocol for Photoshop Elements that will make more sense for those of us not willing (or able) to invest in the full bore Photoshop.

 

[MildlyDamp]

One solution to the problem with the water lightening up too much is to use a mask so that the contrast changes are only applied to other parts of the photo. This can be tricky when you don't have a sharp boundary between what you want masked and don't want masked, but there are a lot of tools out there to make it easier. Plus you can also mask by color, and just exclude all color values similar to the water.

The tarpon photo is easy to mask; I did that and posterized the background only.

 

[SDunbar]

Did you ever post a step-by-step procedure for the Mandrake/SeanDrake protocol for Photoshop Elements? I tried a search for it and didn't come up with anything.

 

[lukeROB]

Instead of using this mandrake technique. Which I think works well in some situations, it is a bit limiting. Try using the channel mixer which give you more versitility and effectively does similar things.

 

[mandrake]

Instead of using this mandrake technique. Which I think works well in some situations, it is a bit limiting. Try using the channel mixer which give you more versitility and effectively does similar things.

Personally I use the channel mixer myself anymore. I haven't used the 'mandrake' method for a year or more. I'm a little surprised at its longevity. For underwater ambient light photos the channel mixer tool is hard to beat as a place to start, but there are a couple of other tools that are more flexible (Calculations and, my favorite, Apply Image).

The biggest weakness of the 'mandrake' method is what Dee points out, it tends to destroy blue water and washes out colors. There's no easy recipe for all photos, you have to take each one on it's own terms.

Here's my try at the barracuda. My goal was to strengthen the red channel while keeping the water blue and the sponge green. The 'mandrake' method would have turned the water purple and the sponge yellow.

 

[smay28]

Yep, 3 clicks and you're done.. Sure beats foolin' around in the darkroom for hours..

 

[lukeROB]

For underwater ambient light photos the channel mixer tool is hard to beat as a place to start, but there are a couple of other tools that are more flexible (Calculations and, my favorite, Apply Image).

Cool, Thanks. Can you explain further. I had a little play around but don't really understand what I am doing. How do I strengthen the red channel as you say using Apply image.

 

[Windknot]

For those of us just starting off in UW Photog/Digital processing, not only does it make a beginners photos significantly better, it also gives us a basic primer on how to adjust our photos.

The Mandrake Protocol was my starting off point and from there I have felt more comfortable and have a better understanding of HOW to fiddle with the middle (if you know what I mean).

Windknot

 

[Windknot]

I also have the protocol in a MS WORD format complete with screen shots taken from my ELEMENTS, but it's like 5.1 MB....I'll try and post it below.


MANDRAKE/SEANDRAKE PROTOCOL FOR PHOTOSHOP ELEMENTS (Mandrake...with your blessings ((I HOPE)))

Underwater Photo Wash in Adobe Photoshop Elements: Getting Rid of all that BLUE


1. Create 3 duplicate layers of the original photo (Click on Layers tab in the pallet well > Right Click on “Background” layer > Duplicate) Do this procedure x 2

2. Make the middle layer the active layer by clicking on it in the pallet well. It should be highlighted blue.
3. Now fill the highlighted layer with 50% gray (Edit > Fill > 50% Gray, 100% opacity, normal) The middle layer preview thumbnail should appear gray now.

4. Make the top duplicate layer active by single clicking on it in the palette well. Change that layers blending mode to 'Luminosity' by clicking on the left drop down menu on the layers palette.

5. Merge that layer down into the middle gray layer. (Layer > Merge Down). You now have a b/w image of your original photo in this layer.

6. Create a new fill layer above this b/w image (Layer > New Fill Layer > Solid Color). Check 'Group with Previous Layer'.

7. Fill this layer with red (R: 255, G: 0, B: 0).

8. Change this layer's blending mode to 'Multiply'

9. Now merge it down into the previous layer (the b/w image) (Layer > Merge Down). You've now have a reddish photo.

10. Change the blending mode of the reddish photo to 'Screen'

11. Merge it down into the first duplicate layer (Layer > Merge Down). You've now got your original image with a much nicer red, but the picture still will need tweaking…color, contrast, and lighting will all need to be adjusted.

12. Run Auto-Levels (Enhance > Auto Levels). See how you like the results. If not undo them (Edit > Undue Auto Levels or Ctrl + Z)

13. In the alternative, you can adjust the Contrast, Brightness, Lighting and Color settings individually to your liking by (Enhance > Adjust Lighting…Color…Brightness etc)

14. When fine tuning your hues and saturation, (Enhance > Adjust Color >
Hue/Saturation) Make sure to adjust them individually. The Hue/Saturation control box has a drop down menu that will allow you to adjust either the master colors, but also allows you to bring out or flatten specific colors in the spectrum.

15. Adjust the sharpness/focus if necessary: (Filter > Sharpen > Unsharp Mask) A popup window will appear with a preview window and three adjustments. Fiddle with these three settings…the larger the radius, the greater the blur will be.

16. When all adjustments are finalized, flatten the photo (Layer > Flatten Image)


ENJOY

WINDKNOT

 

[Windknot]

I HOPE THIS WORKS.....NOPE

Too Big.