my AOW weekend

[np251]

After really, REALLY looking forward to doing the AOW class in monterey this weekend... i am totally bummed out. Conditions were great, the best ive seen it to be honest, the people were fun, gearing up was a joy and the walk down to the water was a pleasure. Fast forward 3 hours and 3 inverted semi-controlled (read: finning manically down to offset the rise) ascents from 30-35 feet and im ready to renounce diving for life. After all the prep, pool sessions with new kit and all the talk... it comes down to my drysuit valve not being up to the job. Its FAR too slow to vent air. Previously, id been using thin undies with v little air (but i was COLD... dry, but cold). After an undersuit upgrade, weight compensation and a bit more air, it turns out my valve sucks. I used a compression bandage over my left arm to stop any material trapping preventing flow to no effect.

I didnt finish the class, i have 3 dives to do, i lost $85 on the boat fee and i need to buy replace my valve. I was not doing the deep dive and risking a polaris from 100 feet- my life is worth a bit more than the boat fee and the price of a new valve. The only reason i havent chucked it all in the closet and walked away is because Monterey is BEAUTIFUL!!! I saw so much on what little bottom time i had, it kinda made up for it- a 3 inch octopus swimming just above the sand, squirting ink and avoiding my buddy, a foot long abalone, dozens of decorator crabs and 2 rainbow nudis. And the kelp in 20 foot vis is gorgeous.

I was taking AOW so i could progress through Rescue this summer, then was thinking about maybe taking fundies next year- but now i feel like a complete newbie. My instructor said the only problem was the valve, and i was doing everything else right and correcting the feet up ascents properly, but the valve was letting me down. Small consolation, but i guess its something to work with.

Off to ebay to find a sci-tech and some glue...

laters


edited to show TSandMs comment from 2006, which i just found-

Good luck -- a poorly venting valve is a PITA, a safety hazard, and worst of all, makes you look totally incompetent!

Exactly my sentiments, and exactly why i didnt do the deep- no way was i going to let myself look even more incompetent in front of the others!

 

[Martinez]

You made the right choice not continuing diving, if the conditions aren't right you shouldn't make the dive. Hope next time everything is OK.

 

[jbd]

If the drysuit is new and the valve is defective shouldn't a warranty cover that??

Also, how are you using the drysuit? Is it used for buoyancy control or is it being used just for exposure protection, while you use the BC for buoyancy control?

 

[np251]

Ive had the drysuit for 2 years, dived it some in the pool and in the ocean (UK south coast and Monterey) and never had a problem. 20 dives or so (work got in the way somewhat). I have lost some fat since i got it and use a bit more air in the suit to provide warmth. I also just upgraded my undersuit which needs just a touch more air. I just take off the squeeze, and use the wing for bouyancy.

It just looks and feels too small for the job- and the exhaust rate is v slow. I dont think i ever really saw it before because i didnt have that much air in the suit.

thanks for the replies

 

[ichigolin]

I've only recently begun dry suit diving, and only dove two different brand dry suits. In all instances, I drive the suit vs using the BC for buoyancy. Compared to a BC valve, I would consider the dry suit valves slow. They are not designed as high volume dump valves as far as I can tell. Anyway, I compensated by doing zig zag ascents vs vertical ascents, several shallower mostly horizontal ascents vs a vertical ascent. When i needed to ascend vertically, I would get and remain slightly negative for the ascent.

Regardless, get that valve checked out just to be sure. Do they make different size/volume valves?

 

[TSandM]

np251, before you chuck the valve, try what the USIA rep told me . . . Soak the valve overnight in distilled water. Then change the water out for distilled water with a few drops of Ivory soap in it. I've done this with two sticky valves so far, and it's done wonders for both of them.

 

[np251]

Cool, a nice cheap alternative to the si-tech i can try tonight- cheers TSandM

and ill be getting into the pool a few more times between now and my next monterey trip, thats for sure

 

[Ber Rabbit]

I had a similar problem with my suit and someone said to spray a little food grade silicone into the valve and work it prior to the dive. I had the suit sent back to Viking and they checked the valve and said it was fine so I went with the pre-dive silicone spray. I can attest to the fact that uncontrolled ascents from 100 feet are not fun, neither are the ones from 50 feet or 20 feet for that matter.
Ber :lilbunny:

 

[String]

Drysuits will always vent much slower than a BC.
Auto dumps on the shoulder aren't always optimally positioned making it worse plus if the suit is too baggy it wont work well. You may need to roll or squeeze to dump. Or do what i did and fitted a cuff dump so i just lift my arm to dump. Check you aren't overweighted as this leads to too much air in the suit if using it for buoyancy.

You can also try switching to your BC for buoyancy.

 

[Drewski]

Hi np251:

First, don't fret so much. If drysuit diving was EASY, anyone could do it. It takes time and experience to get it right, especially in the "transition" zone between 50 ft and the surface.

From many dives in dry suits, here's a few things I've learned.

Less air is better. Just like you said, using the suit for buoyancy control can lead to issues. I've found that adding air or other gas for warmth is all you need to use. Use the BCD for ups and downs.

Little changes in set-up can lead to BIG differences. As you discovered, heavier underwear can completely change "expectations." I've learned the hard way (again, just like you) that every time you make a change, test it in "confined" water first, even if the change seems insignificant.

"Gadgets" don't work. This may sound a little harsh, but straps, "gaiters," ankle weights and other stuff only compensate for unlearned drysuit skills, IMO. I've seen many new dry suit divers immediately go to this stuff and then continually change how they use it. This creates problems because it doesn't allow them to "use" and "learn" the suit.

Create a "procedure" that works for you." I use a "routine" every time I get in, descend, ascend and exit the water. It involves positioning, valve settings and BCD use. Once I learned and started using this "routine," dry suit diving became almost automatic. Develop one and stick to it.

Don't be afraid of diving "HEAVY." Unlike other posters to this thread, I have NO issue with recommending diving "heavy" in a drysuit. In fact, to be on the safe side, I've used up to 10 LBS more than I've needed on the first dive "just to be sure." The hassle and quite frankly the danger of being "light" just isn't worth it. I use small shot bags (2 LBS) in weight pockets on my BCD for adjustment. Depending on conditions, the depth I'm diving to and if I'm doing deco or not, all influence how much weight I use. There is no "one weight" for drysuit diving, unlike wetsuits. BTW, before I get BLASTED for this opinion, on my last dive (Saturday, May 12 - 100 FT - calm seas - boat - 15 minutes of deco) I used a 6 LB plate and 6 LBS of additional weight (12 LBS total) with my single LP 121 steel. I dive a Viking Pro 1000 with a medium weight undergarment and silk base. I'm 6' 3" and weigh 250 LBS.

The other advice concerning valves was good. Also consider that the valve spring may be "too tight." Long periods of storage sometimes changes the characteristics of springs and that may be part of the problem.

Hope this helps...