MK5 HP Seat

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

As an experiment could I flip over a conical seat? It may not seal but I don't think it would damage anything. But is that a bad assumption????????
 
As an experiment could I flip over a conical seat? It may not seal but I don't think it would damage anything. But is that a bad assumption????????
IP might be lower than right side up but could work (as long as the “+/-l/-ll” marking fits inside the piston bore fully).
 
Shave the conical protrusions off first
 
IP might be lower than right side up but could work (as long as the “+/-l/-ll” marking fits inside the piston bore fully).
The thing is, neither of the white seats I have left have any markings on them (they're both the same size anyway). I did have a gray SP seat that was marked +. I put that in the reg and it fixed what was a relatively slow recovery but then the IP still crept up to about 170. Bottom line is, I'm sure I'm learning something from playing around with the reg but I need to buy a service kit and do this right.
 
The thing is, neither of the white seats I have left have any markings on them (they're both the same size anyway). I did have a gray SP seat that was marked +. I put that in the reg and it fixed what was a relatively slow recovery but then the IP still crept up to about 170. Bottom line is, I'm sure I'm learning something from playing around with the reg but I need to buy a service kit and do this right.
If a new seat is still giving a slow creep to a much higher IP, I would suspect damage to the piston knife edge. Look with a magnifier to see if there are any tiny nicks (doesn't take much at all)... If so, refer to @rsingler 's wonderful explanation of knife edge piston repair:
 
James, I'm hoping I don't have to get into that. I've been learning on some old regs I got off of ebay, etc. I've been waiting to work on this MK9 as it's my primary reg that I purchased "new". So I left servicing it until last as I gained confidence. I hope to tear it apart soon, but apparently my wife thinks its more important that I fix the snowblower first :).
 
James, I'm hoping I don't have to get into that. I've been learning on some old regs I got off of ebay, etc. I've been waiting to work on this MK9 as it's my primary reg that I purchased "new". So I left servicing it until last as I gained confidence. I hope to tear it apart soon, but apparently my wife thinks its more important that I fix the snowblower first :).
Is it the Mk5 or the Mk9 that you have the IP creep to 170? Either way, if you diagnose it as a flawed knife edge, I probably have an old 5 or 10 that I can trade you pistons out of (partly because I want to take a crack at Robs piston edge restoration method!).
 
James, thanks for the offer. It's the MK9. I may take you up on it but I want to try the rebuild first. I need to order a kit from VDH and that will probably take two or three weeks. (Bryan is busy with work.)
 
Just realized we had an unused otoscope tucked away. Seems to work better than a phone app? I know, not the best video.

mk5 piston.mp4
 
Oof! Those are two large dings on the wrong side of the knife edge. Especially #2. That's a big restoration project, @James79 ! I'm guessing IP will go up 10-15 psi after you get to the bottom of those. Still, fun to see it work, given enough time and effort.
Screenshot_20220206-172222_Chrome.jpg

Screenshot_20220206-172134_Chrome.jpg
 

Back
Top Bottom