MK5 / 109 end of life? :(

[redacted]

Thanks raftingtrigger, I've been going there for sometime now whenever I see MK5 MKV 109 in the title. I'll be doing a search one of these days.

Today I downloaded 6 files concerning the MK5 /109 from VDH so I've got some studing to do. Plus the Regulator Savvy book will be come soon. So I have an abundance of information to absorb.

I never bothered to learn as I've always had the same tech / LDS owner that does a flawless job on them. However it appears these days he maybe more interested in selling me 3 new top of the line SP regulators then servicing my old ones, so a diver has to do what a diver has to do to keep diving. Buying 3 new top of line regulators is NOT one of those things!

A couple of years ago I had the tech disassembly my 4th 109 in order to have it chromed. I haven't been able to find anyone to do it. So I assembled it. That was easy except for the exhaust tee. Just how powerful does one need to be to reattach that! I even soaked in hot water a lubed the opening!

I have the water boiling with the newest Tees and wear a glove. Older Tees are not quite as difficult. With a new tee, make sure the exhaust valve is new (or almost) as they don;t really come off any easier than they go on.

 

[raftingtigger]

Couv suggested a hair dryer for replacing the tee. That (and getting my husband involved) put the last one on. I've also thought about making a tool to assist in the reassembly.

 

[Luis H]

I also use the hair dryer for the exhaust "T". It works great.

 

[Couv]

I also use the hair dryer for the exhaust "T". It works great.

That's where couv learned it.

I've stopped boiling mine since learning the hair dryer tip-patience is the key.

 

[Nemrod]

Boiling water, Dawn soap applied directly to parts.

N

 

[Zung]

Don't hang me: I soften the thing in boiling water, then I stick a screw driver in the opening for leverage.

 

[Nemrod]

Preparing noose-----.

N

 

[redacted]

Don't hang me: I soften the thing in boiling water, then I stick a screw driver in the opening for leverage.

The screwdriver is really unnecessary. It is surprising how much that hard piece of plastic that is the new exhaust tee softens after a good boil. I have always been able to get one end in place and then pull hard and slip the other end over the flange. I did try using K-Y jelly once but found it was unnecessary. I surely did not want to waste any perfectly good dish detergent.

 

[AfterDark]

I have another question. I have a AIR 1 pilot, not the original Pilot but the black plastic one with the dive / pre-dive switch. Tech told SP wants them out of circulation there are no parts and he refused to service. What are my options if any? Darn thing breathes better than any other reg I've ever tried but now it's free flowing a bit.

 

[redacted]

I have another question. I have a AIR 1 pilot, not the original Pilot but the black plastic one with the dive / pre-dive switch. Tech told SP wants them out of circulation there are no parts and he refused to service. What are my options if any? Darn thing breathes better than any other reg I've ever tried but now it's free flowing a bit.

I'm sure Scubapro does want them out of circulation. But parts are available - at least most that would be needed to keep it working. The LP seat is the same as the D-series. I believe Scubapro has ended support for the D-series regs but kits (or just seats) are still readily available. Check with VDH. The only part that might be hard to find is a replacement diaphragm.

Tell the tech that you are going to replace your Air1 with a brand he does not carry. See if that changes his tune. Better yet, find another tech who will take care of it.