MK 5 turret retainer

Please register or login

Welcome to ScubaBoard, the world's largest scuba diving community. Registration is not required to read the forums, but we encourage you to join. Joining has its benefits and enables you to participate in the discussions.

Benefits of registering include

  • Ability to post and comment on topics and discussions.
  • A Free photo gallery to share your dive photos with the world.
  • You can make this box go away

Joining is quick and easy. Log in or Register now!

What got me a bit worried is this: "Grade 303 should not be exposed to marine or other similar environments, as these will result in rapid pitting corrosion."
 
The turret bolt should see little or no exposure to SW. It is entirely "inside" unless the 1st stage is flooded. I measured a 3rd (brass) retainer and got 0.150". But I'd feel better if other measured. My caliper is a pretty cheap one.
 
Last edited by a moderator:
A small hole is a good hole.

Why remove meat where the only discernible outcome is to weaken the bolt.

I have:

circlips, 2 lp ports.

.160 2 lp ports.

.160 4 lp ports.

.180 5 lp ports.

The .180 fits a 3/16 drill bit perfectly, so thats a gauge.

Very good.
 
Thanks awap for providing me with the motivation to find and open
two original, four rebuilt, and the relief that two were already open
glee, to provide measurements for the benefit of others.
 
Thanks awap for providing me with the motivation to find and open
two original, four rebuilt, and the relief that two were already open
glee, to provide measurements for the benefit of others.

Did you check the type metal in those retainers? All of my Mk5 have brass (chromed) retainers. I'm wondering if the larger hole might be associated with the SS version.
 
One would think a ss retainer could have a larger hole (thinner wall) than brass as it would be more robust. I also wonder how much chrome material is lost during cleaning process, i.e. ultra sonic and or acid bath. Going in the opposite direction, during the chroming process would the amount of time a fitting spends in the bath account for some of the differences we are seeing?
 
Last edited:
Ok ok ok.

All brass except the stainless circlips.

A couple of .160s, chrome, and a couple no chrome.

A couple of .180s with chrome.

I had a look at a couple of copies, Boss equipment and Rebel Scuba by Land & Sea Sports, the same as Scuba Max from your neck of the woods and found

A 17mm stainless bolt with a slightly longer threaded section, and a .200 hole.

Looks chunky enough similar spec and I became very excited but the rubbish has, you guessed it, a metric thread. Finer, screws in some then eeeeeeeeeee.

But there's more.

Another couple of locally made Mk5 designs have a round retainer that have a Mk10 cap pins 2 holes screwing mechanism with probably the correct thread but I don't know the material and the bloke retired from business and before I check availability or pull my greased ones apart, you're on a good wicket already paying fifteen bucks for what you want.

Just thought I'd tell you about the round, pins thing.

Now, I have an exceptional chroming dude, not the dude under the bridge
and he does the copper and the other treatments and sometimes when he
has my 20 bits wired to the dipping frame like a 109 clamp screw hanging
head down on an angle it has an almost microscopic minuscule drip where the side of the head meets the top.
So sometimes it's critical and sometimes it's not. You can see if chrome is thick.

Or if something ends in a point, a lump develops. He smears a bit of grease if you don't want chrome.

I haven't found poor chroming with SP but it can be quite thin microns

There are other crap regs where the chrome comes off, especially from yokes so well and so thick you can cut yourself with it, like bumpers, or repair your rusty corrugated roof with it.

The good thing is you can sharp x acto, no burrs on the blade all the little shards off to a perfect coat underneath, if slightly discolored.

Very enough.
 
Thanks for taking the time to do the measuring knowone (and of course, the poetic musings ;) ).

I was also debating whether to remove the turret bolt from mine and give it a quick measure, but realized:

1.) My caliper is of "questionable" accuracy.
2.) My ability to accurately measure is even more "questionable" ;)

I'd be providing a very "ballpark" measurement, more like "carbon dating" than an "atomic clock", so I think I'll avoid confusing the issue and leave it to those who actually know what they are doing :D

Best wishes.
 
Now to make sure my head is less scrambled in the light of the receding hair and flooded day

Just to make sure that everyone knows that what I think I know and
what you should know is that I didn't make a lets measure a handful
of Mk 10s type mistake again.

The ambient holes are next to the turrets and the retainers have hex heads with round holes and with various sized countersinks and roundednesses at the ends.
I measured ID not countersinkings.

And the chrome is thin or missing because the tool marks and lathe vibration or oscillations post polishing are still obvious.

By the way, I pretty much get .300 for external thread diameter
and .250 internal thread diameter. Piston hole seems to be .180


Ok ok ok. That's the frantic guy from the lethal movies.

I know you know LeadTurn_SD but see how close
your 3/16 comes to .180 is close enough.


Now, I find the skinny yoke and the wingnut and the chrome bit
b/w that and the body and the twin turret, aesthetically pleasing

But what's so fascinating about the Mk V?

Is it the 7 scfm at 2000 psi and 25 scfm at 300 psi difference
with the Mk 10 and how does that work and what does it do?

Please?
 
Last edited:

Back
Top Bottom