measurement of flash u/w

[bobf]

For those who are interested in Inon strobes, this may help shed more light on S-TTL:

http://www.inon.co.jp/e_pdf/SampleImagesOfSTTL_En.pdf

btw, I use TTL on night dives with my Ikelite DS 125, vintage Oly c4040 (only came in black back then ), and vintage gray TTL optical sensor............preflash and all



I prefer manual strobe control during daylight hours ( I also own an EV controller for my other DS 125).

 

[RonFrank]

I prefer manual strobe control during daylight hours ( I also own an EV controller for my other DS 125).

Ohh bite your tongue Bob! Manual strobe, Ohmygod! Actually I use manual strobe, but it has more to do with the fact I do NOT own something that does iTTL!

I really need to get one of them there iTTL strobes, but I just keep on finding other things to spend money on, like diving.

 

[sandrascuba]

From the Inon web page and Bob's post: "Automatic TTL first shot accurate exposure as simple as pressing the shutter button with digital cameras using a pre-flash. Easy operation for users wanting point-and-shoot convenience without setting camera and strobe controls. Compatible with most digital cameras having a pre-flash. Just set the camera to P Mode and "force flash", and the strobe to S-TTL and start shooting."

OK, I have a Canon S80 and Inon D2000 strobe, Optical D Cable /Cap W18 Set and Ike housing ..... I assume the statement above here assumes you are using the Inon flash-blocking stickies on the camera flash and the deflector on the housing as well?

BTW, this brings up other questions.... My Ikelite housing came with both a deflector and diffuser. When would I use the deflector and when would I use the diffuser? Is it always necessary to use the camera stickies over the flash? What about in the Canon housing? Still use the stickies and deflector? If not using the Inon strobe, do I still use the stickies and deflector, diffuser or what's the set-up?

To the person who started this thread.... I have a Sony DSC S-85. I have the Ike housing for it and had an Ikelite DS125 strobe for it. My strobe had a sensor that looked down at the camera strobe and fired when the camera did. I did not like this sensor. It seemed to me that by the time I got to depth with the camera rig I had to take several minutes to set the sensor in the right position so it would fire. Also, the DS125 I had was the old model.... discontinued and worthless now. So, if you're going to go DSLR shortly you might want to wait and use that underwater and your Sony DSC camera as a point and shoot. My Sony camera took pretty good photos underwater with the onboard flash and difusser and with the flash off. So you might want to wait to get the strobe to match your DSLR and just go with the Sony in a housing. I wonder if my DSC S85 housing would fit your Sony?

Thanks for all the help. Great thread here.

Sandra

 

[bobf]

Still use the stickies and deflector?

If you use the Clear Photo System (as you describe "stickies"):

http://www.inonamerica.com/content/docs/ClearPhotoSystem2F373.pdf

No other blocking devices are needed. No "visible" light will pass through the material.

When would I use the deflector and when would I use the diffuser?

If you did not install the Clear Photo System "sticky" over your internal flash, then you would use the diffuser when you weren't using an external strobe, relying therefore on the internal strobe to illuminate the foreground.

You would use the deflector when you were using an external strobe. The deflector in this case would block any of the light from the onboard flash from illuminating any of the particles between the lens and subject.

That said, I don't use the deflector at all anymore. I use black electrical tape on the interior of my Ike housing to block out even more of the area than the deflector is capable of blocking. I found that when I attached a wide angle lens to the system (c4040, ike housing, oly wal), I'd pick up stray rays, emanating from the internal flash, at the edges of the wide angle images I captured.

It seemed to me that by the time I got to depth with the camera rig I had to take several minutes to set the sensor in the right position so it would fire.

You may have had the earliest version of the arm system that required the user to change the sensor position each time the strobe arm was moved (sensor and strobe were attached to the same arm possibly). A modification that allowed the sensor to attach to its own stationary arm between the handle and first knuckle of the arm system was quickly introduced to address that inconvenience.

I find that the best location for the Ike sensor, either TTL or EV controller, is angled down at the onboard flash and angled slightly towards the user, away from the scene, in order not to pick up any stray rays that might come from the strobe it was attached to.

Also, the DS125 I had was the old model.... discontinued and worthless now.

You can still achieve TTL with the earliest version of the DS 125 when combined with Heinrichs Weikamp conversion circuitry for many cameras, including the DSC-85. Click on this link:

http://www.heinrichsweikamp.net/blitz/indexe.htm

Then click on Supported Strobes.

Email Matthias Heinrichs for details.

btw, a worthless DS 125?

b

 

[sandrascuba]

Thanks Bob for clearing that up for me. Let me make sure I've got it right....

If I use the Clear Photo System stickies I don't need the deflector (or diffuser) when I'm using the Inon strobe. But the Optical cable has to attach to something in front of the camera flash...... so I assume the diffuser or deflector has to be used anyway.

If I don't use the Inon strobe, I don't need the Clear Photo System stickies but do need the diffuser.

How much difference will it make if I don't use the Clear Photo Systems stickies, use the deflector instead with an external flash?

Can you tell I'm confused?

All the documentation I received with the Inon strobe were in Japaneese, so I've looked over all the Inon links in this thread. Thanks for them.

About the DS125 I had (I used it as a trade in for my Inon strobe). I was told it could not be upgraded for use with today's digital cameras. I forget now it's serial number but I bought it in 2000. I didn't use it much because of its size, weight, propriarity batteries (which were also heavy) and the IR sensor was a real PITA. It was practically new with an extra battery but I think I'm going to enjoy the D2000.

Thanks again for sharing your knowledge.

Sandra

 

[clgsamson]

here's something to help you out, Sandra.

I removed the diffuser box and replaced it with the inon optical kit.

 

[bobf]

Sandra,

I too am confident that you will enjoy using your D 2000..............

How much difference will it make if I don't use the Clear Photo Systems stickies, use the deflector instead with an external flash?

If you place the Clear Photo System patch over the onboard flash, no visible light will bounce around inside the housing. If you decide not to use the CPS patch, there is always a chance for that light from the onboard flash to escape. The escaping light might cause glare as shown in the diagrams on the CPS link. Or the light might escape the housing completely and be captured inadvertently by your lens, which is why I went to the black tape option ( I don't own any CPS patches).

Every housing and camera configuration I'm sure is different. I think it would be safe to say YMMV. There may be no noticeable difference between deflector and patch, or there might.

Curious where you purchased your D 2000. Didn't you receive an English version manual? If purchased in the States, you should have received one. If you didn't receive an English manual and you believe you should have, email InonAmerica with your serial number.

The person who told you that your older DS 125 strobe was not compatible with newer digital cameras may have misled you slightly. True it can not be upgraded to work simply by plugging into current Ikelite TTL housings, but as I mentioned previously, conversion circuitry I believe does exist that would offer TTL with today's most popular dSLRs and compact digicams. Of course it will still perform in manual mode as well as it always has without any conversion devices.

I still own a pair of DS 125 strobes from around the same time period as your original (not upgradable). One of mine came with an EV controller so new off the assembly line that the manual had yet to be written for it. As for the weight issue, the DS 125 may tip the scale at over 2 pounds on land, but weighs a mere 4 ounces negative when submerged in salt water.

clgsamson, nice image of your rig!

 

[sandrascuba]

Wow, thanks for the help guys. You're the best! Yes, I received the English version manuals for the D2000 but all the accessory pages were in Japaneese. I had great difficulty in setting up the cable but with help got it all sorted out and installed. I was confused about when the magnet needed to be installed as well but that too has been laid to rest.

I'm taking Mike V's class in Yap the first part of February and I'm looking forward to learning how to use the strobe and camera together. I might even get a picture worth keeping.... I hope.

Thanks again.

Sandra

 

[clgsamson]

Wow, thanks for the help guys. You're the best! Yes, I received the English version manuals for the D2000 but all the accessory pages were in Japaneese. I had great difficulty in setting up the cable but with help got it all sorted out and installed. I was confused about when the magnet needed to be installed as well but that too has been laid to rest.

I'm taking Mike V's class in Yap the first part of February and I'm looking forward to learning how to use the strobe and camera together. I might even get a picture worth keeping.... I hope.

Thanks again.

Sandra

You wont go wrong with Mike. Just don't stare at his bald head too much.

Seriously, he's one of the best photographers out there.