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Mares regulator, keep or exchange...

Discussion in 'Regulators' started by Anar, Mar 11, 2020.

  1. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    From that list, depending on how expensive, I would lean towards the Abyss Octopus and consider it an investment.

    In the future, you could always purchase a non-octo abyss cover for about 20 euros +/- , and have it tuned like the non-octo and have 2 really good performing 2nd stages.

    Abyss Cover

    All the 2nd stages you list are "good enough" as an octo, but the best investment would be the Abyss octo....you will appreciate having it if you decide to configure your reg set as "primary donate".

    -Z
     
  2. Anar

    Anar Angel Fish

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Kazakhstan
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    The first three are around 70-80us, while Abyss is 160us. It also has a yellow cord, cant switch that one I guess.
    I thought octopus should be reliable and not to high end, since you wont be using it too much. If I intend to use it only as octo, is there point in paying twice the price?
     
  3. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    First....you can definitely switch the hose to any color you like that is available.

    Second...regarding the price/performance of an octo, there a different schools of thought on this. One school of thought is to go inexpensive as you will not be using it often. Another school of thought is to get one that is at least equal in performance and reliability as your primary 2nd stage as you never know if you will need to use it. Still another school of thought is "primary donate"...in this you will donate your primary 2nd stage and switch to your octo which is typically on a necklace made from a loop of bungee cord...if things go wrong and you need to switch to your octo you, again, want it to be as reliable and equally performing as your primary 2nd stage which you will donate to your partner if they are OOA or suffer a regulator failure.

    It is all personal preference. As I mentioned in a previous post, there is nothing wrong with any of the 2nd stages you listed. Choose one, get an SPG, and go dive.

    -Z
     
    Anar likes this.
  4. lowwall

    lowwall Manta Ray

    # of Dives: 200 - 499
    Location: Chicago
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    If the cost difference is material, I'd get the Proton. I dived with the plastic Protons for years without any problems. They are light and compact and breathe well. They were in a higher price class than the other two when they were all current production, so the quality and or parts should be better.
     
    Anar likes this.
  5. JackD342

    JackD342 Dive Shop

    # of Dives: 500 - 999
    Location: Highland Park, IL
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    The most noticeable difference on the lower end Rover is the purge button. No spring mechanism, just a stiff plastic part that takes a bit more of a firmer squeeze to use. Not too comfortable for younger, smaller divers.
     
    Anar likes this.
  6. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    Here is what the Rover, Proton and MV look like inside for comparison:

    Rover
    ROVER.JPG
    ROVER%2520OCTOPUS.JPG
    ROVER%2520DESPIECE.JPG

    Proton
    PROTON.JPG
    PROTON%20DESPIECE.JPG

    MV
    MV%252001.JPG
    MV%252002.JPG
    MV%2520DESPIECE.JPG
     
    Anar likes this.
  7. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    The plastic mesh of the Proton and Rover becomes brittle and eventually breaks. It may be possible to get Rover replacement covers (@ 10 euro +/-), but Proton covers (plastic or metal) are more difficult to find.

    There is a spring behind the purge button of the plastic proton purge button that is not shown in the picture. Here is the exploded diagram of the Proton octo with the spring circled in red:

    Proton Octo diagram.png

    -Z
     
    Anar likes this.
  8. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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  9. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    There is not a whole lot of difference between the proton and the rover except for the faceplate/purge button design. Here are the parts list for each for comparison:

    upload_2020-3-20_7-52-33.png

    upload_2020-3-20_7-54-18.png

    -Z
     
  10. Zef

    Zef Divemaster

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    Here (attached) is the full reference from where the parts lists and diagram were plucked.

    -Z
     

    Attached Files:

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