Mares Abyss Metal (42) cracking pressure adjustment

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Harro10

Contributor
Messages
611
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Location
Hailey, Idaho
# of dives
200 - 499
I have had a couple of problems with the Abyss 42 second stage free flowing (slight free flow after attachment to tank and turning on air). This actually started after having it serviced. It was corrected between dive days by removing the 2nd stage from the hose and adjusting the cracking pressure. This Abyss does not have an external adjustment. Upon returning home I contacted the dive shop that did the servicing and was told that this was the appropriate fix (since it worked). The same problem occurred last month. The same procedure fixed the problem. I would like to carry the the correct tools with me to do this adjustment myself on trips. I know I need two 17mm wrenches to remove the 2nd stage from the hose. Can anyone here tell me the size hex I will need to do the actual cracking pressure. I want to make sure I have the correct size on hand before I start disassembling the Abyss. Thanks.
 
You are not adjusting the cracking pressure but setting the orifice seating. That said the proper way to do it is with this: Dual Drive Inline Adjusting Tool

I.e. with an line tool one removes the hose, installs the tool between second stage and hose, pressurizes the reg, backs the orifice away from the seat until it free flows. Then one turns the orifice into the seat until it seals then go approximately a quarter turn more. Test by purging a few times. Done.


However, a 5mm hex drive (or for other regs a slotted screw driver) will work in a pinch. You just need to do it by trial and error. Assuming it is leaking, remove hose, turn a quarter/half turn in, replace hose, pressurize, test by purging. Repeat as needed. I would not turn more than a half turn otherwise you could prematurely wear the seat.

BTW given that there were problems take the reg in to the tech and have them show you how they did it. Compare it as to how it was done in the field.
 
Thanks, Scared Silly. That was very helpful. I was actually considering backing it off 1/8 of a turn since the last time this was done noticeably increased inhalation breathing pressure needed to draw air through the reg.
 
Hi Harro10,

The problem with simply tightening the orifice to "stop the leak" with the Mares Abyss is that you are also lowering the demand lever.

Adjusting this regulator is a balancing act between orifice depth and lever height. Moving the orifice also moves the demand lever.

Properly tuned, your Mares Abyss should be stable (no free flows) but breath very easily.

With this regulator, when it is pressurized, you should be able to gently shake the 2nd stage in a quiet room and hear a light tapping of the lever against the 2nd stage diaphragm, like tapping a finger nail lightly on an aluminum can... this indicates just a slight bit of free play (1 - 2 mm) between the lever and diaphragm.... you should not hear a loud "clacking" like shaking a pebble inside an empty can, that means there is too much free play... and you should never hear anything when you shake an unpressurized Mares 2nd stage (in an unpressurized state, the lever is in full contact with the diaphragm, there is no free play).

A touch-up tuning is sometimes needed, like Scared Silly describes; and in a pinch, yes you can just remove the 2nd stage and use a hex wrench to carefully "stop the leak".... but be aware that more than just a "tweak" will begin to seriously de-tune your 2nd stage since you are not only increasing cracking effort but also lowering the demand lever when you turn the orifice clockwise (and raising the lever when you turn it counter-clockwise).

Lowering the demand lever causes the 2nd stage diaphragm to have to travel further before contacting the lever and open the demand valve; a lever set too low may not fully open the 2nd stage demand valve during inhalation, turning your sweet-breathing Abyss into a "dog".

My quick and dirty pre-dive and between servicing checks for my Mares Abyss's (and other Mares 2nd stages):

1. Vacuum test for leaks (see couv's excellent checklist that is "stickied" at the top of this forum).

2. Pressurize reg... purge a few times, check for freeflows. Also make sure that purge button only travels 1-2mm before air begins to flow. If it travels further than this, the lever may be too low.

3. Shake reg, listen for the slight rattle to make sure lever is not set too high.

4. Breath reg.... with experience, you'll know how the reg should "feel" when it is well tuned.

Finally.... I love my Abyss regs, but simply hate that the newer Abyss regs have plastic orifices. I really think that this causes some tuning issues, i.e. free flows, that I do not see in my older Mares Voltrex 2nd which has a metal orifice.



Best wishes.
 
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Thanks, LeadTurn, for the insight into the why as well as the how to. I will use all of the above and the lowering of the demand lever might explain why drawing air through the reg takes more effort.
 
LeadTurn_SD,

Thanks for the excellent service info. That's good to know even if I won't be servicing my own reg. I believe I have the same reg setup as Harro10: MR42T first stage and an Abyss second stage. I bought it from an LDS Oct. 2012 and have only 22 dives on it to date, all fresh water.


Harro10,

My second stage starting "leaking" with just a 1200 psi source and so I took it in to get it adjusted. The intermediate pressure was found to be 160 psi, which was quite high. From what I can tell from Mares' specs, the IP should be 9.8 to 10.2 bars (142 psi to 148 psi for an inlet pressure source of 2900 psi down to 435 psi). Do you know what your IP was and/or is now?
 
Leadturn,
Can a metal orifice be retrofit into your Abyss regs? Zeagle has gone back from plastic to a metal (stainless?) orifice in their version of the Apeks second stage.
 
rjk75 and keyshunter - Thanks. Those are ideas I will have to investigate if the problem occurs again. Unfortunately there are no shops that can service my regulator anywhere near where I live and I have to ship it to be worked on which somewhat cuts down my access to good information. I am hoping the problem has been fixed since the reg has several dives on it since the last adjustment but I will have the tools with me on the boat if needed.
 
snip... snip... but I will have the tools with me on the boat if needed.

Be sure to get an IP gauge (plugs in to your inflator hose) and take it with you on dive trips. You can find ones on eBay for as low as $15.
 
https://www.shearwater.com/products/swift/

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