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Saddly, no diving for me in latin america this year 'cause of the outbreak.
Hi @Dan
@Trailboss123 and I are with you next July, we are diving with Sten. I'm trying to wait patiently
Here's my trip report from just two weeks ago:
About the location
Malpelo is a collection of islands (one large, several smaller rocks), part of a seamount 500km/300mi off the coast of Colombia, in the Pacific.
Map: Google Maps
It is a National Park and subject to strict restrictions in terms of tourism:
How to get there
- Visiting boats need to leave from Colombia (since 2018)
- No more than 1 (yes, one!) liveaboard with divers on site at any time
- No night dives, no snorkeling
The only way to get to Malpelo (for diving) is on board a liveaboard vessel - at this time only the Ferox offers scheduled trips to the rock. Trips depart from Cali (in front of the Intercontinental hotel), whereupon you sit in a bus for ~3 hours, driving to Buenaventura. There you board the boat, which promptly departs on the long journey to the island. Depending on weather conditions this is a 28-36 hours (or thereabouts) trip - conditions range from ‘the flattest sea possible’ to multiple meters of swell and waves. Bring sea sickness medication just in case!
When to go
Lying just above the equator, Malpelo can be dived all year around, albeit with varying conditions and marine life present. Dry season (January to May) generally has tougher conditions, July to December is the rainy season with warmer water and better visibility. May to July has lots of silky sharks around, July to September is whale shark season. The largest schools of hammerheads have historically been seen in January.
What to see
Sharks! So many sharks. Eagles rays! And fish! So much fish.
There’s very little coral and you’ll mostly be diving over sandy bottom or bare rocks, but that doesn’t mean the ocean is devoid of life at all. Massive schools of barracudas, eagle rays, snappers, creole fish, and of course groups of hammerheads.
Things to consider
This is not a place for inexperienced divers. I would go as far as to say that diving in Malpelo is among the most challenging I’ve done. Conditions can change rapidly in regards to temperature, visibility and current. We had dives with 9 degrees (Celsius!) temperature difference between surface (27.5°C) and 28 meters depth (19.5°C). Ripping currents, sometimes pointing downwards. Visibility changes from ~20 meters to 7 meters and back in 48 hours.
Dives Rating
5/5 - Fantastic!
There are many aspects of diving in Malpelo that are absolutely outstanding:
Operator Rating
- Big fish sightings: Hammerheads, Galapagos and Silky sharks, Eagle rays, Tuna, Barracudas
- Massive schools of fish: La Cara del Phantasma especially had several huge balls of fish of several species
- Short trips to dive sites: Zodiac rides never took more than 15 minutes, sometimes were as short as 3 minutes
4/5 - Great!
Traveling with Ferox is a pleasure:
- Perfect safety set up: Everyone gets issued with a GPS finder that you dive with on every single dive, briefings cover everything important, guides keep counting guests under water.
- Food is plentiful and good: Colombian food, freshly prepared, and lots of it!
Things that could be off putting (but weren’t to me!):
- The Ferox is very utilitarian. Cabins are relatively small, bare, and don’t offer much in terms of luxury - apart from the fact that Ferox actually has single person cabins, which is unusual for a liveaboard in my experience.